nah, carbon blades don't splinter, they will still break though in a crash, i personally have never broken a cf blade crashing on grass with the stock motor, dunno bout bl though.

Does it make it fly better with teh flat bottom? like would ti be more stable?

sorry to be off the topic of the moment, but I flew my blade outside today. I looped it, rolled it, flipped it, did inverted forward flight and even an inverted funnel. Not too shabby for a stock brushed motor!

Bragger!

question....
I recently up graded a bounch of things on my cp pro (imagin that) in doing so i also bought a 1300 battery. I have the super landing gear and cant figure out a way to position my new battery for CG. I there a different kind of landing gear that i can buy with a larger opening? Need some opionions or experiences

I strap mine underneath with velcro straps and mark the forward position with model striping tape for CG. Works for me!

the problem im am having though is my new battery is too big. It will not fit between my super skids, so i can't get the CG with that battery unless i turn it side ways and then i can't get my canope on. Guess i will have to fabricate my skides a little of shop for different ones.

What size battery are you trying to put under it?

I don't know as far as flat more stable but as I said before the sym get higher head speed and that makes it more stable but more damage when you crash. For the flat bottom blades you could just change you pitch curve if you have a DX6,7 or another programable radio. You can try to change it with the linkage but it will mess up the over all pitch (-12 +12 is normal it may be -15, +9). If you do get sym I think you are saposed to use a smaller pinon. (smaller by one tooth I think). Good luck

ok i already bought the flat bottomg blades, so i will just use those for now.... but hey are cheaper so wth.

you drop from 10t to 9t because of the change from ni-hm to lipo, not blades, you'll actually want a bigger pinion for sim blades to achieve the same amount of lift of flat bottoms.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...%20Accessories
has a good description of what pinions are for what. Keep in mind this is for the CP, not the pro

8T pinion - This motor and pinion deliver extra-long flight times when using 3-cell LiPo packs and flat bottom main blades.

9T pinion - Same motor and pinion included with the Aerobatic Enhancement Kit. Recommended for use with 3-cell Li-Po packs.

10T pinion - Stock motor/pinion. Best for 8 cell NiMH and flat bottom blades.

11t pinion - This motor and pinion are for use with 2-cell 730-1320mAh Li-Po packs and flat bottom main blades.

I think on the pro the stock is 9T, or alteast that is what mine has

The smaller the T number on the pinion, the lower the head speed if everything else stays the same, and visa versa

I thought I would share this with everyone here, because it isn't as fun sharing it with people who don't know what the heck it is anyways.

I converted a computer PSU to provide the 12v for current battery chargers. It works for both my ICE charger, and the stock e-flite charger.

In the first pic you can see that I added a glass fuse and mounts to make it replaceable without soldering. Alot of power supplies have these already built in. You can also see the wiring to each of the banana jacks. I used all of the wires to transfer the current, although this is probably overkill. Better to be too sure than not sure enough =P.

You can also see in this picture 4 wirewound resistors. You have to put a load on the 5v rail to get the 12v rail up to actually 12v (otherwise it's like 11.5 to 11.8). I used four 1 ohm resistors to give it a load of 1.25 amps, and also to dissipate the heat better. I also zip tied them to the metal and put heat compound to help transfer the heat better.

The next picture shows the operating voltage while charging the e-flite battery with my homebrew battery cable. Next I will have to get a lipo balancer. I am thinking about the equinox by great planes. Any other suggestions?

The last pic shows the power supplies rated voltage and current, although I think that is much more than these banana jacks can accommodate. It does provide nice taps for 3.3v, 5v, and 12v. I have left it running for 2 days straight to see if it would overheat, and it runs just barely warm to the touch (about 90F), even with about 160watts of load on it. You turn it off with the rocker switch, and you know if it is running if the fan is on.

When I said you need a smaller pinion I ment for the flat blades not the sym.

Mrasmm does your powersupply power two E-Flight charges? I have an extra power supply and may be intrested in making one.

yeah, it will actually power about 10 or 11 stock chargers =). Yours might vary though. Look how many amps are supplied on the +12v rail. It's usually 8 or 9 amps all the way up to about 40 amps. Mine is 17 amps, and the stock charger requires 1.5amps. Be careful to watch your voltage that you don't get an under volt. The stock charger is rated at 11.5v, and if you go any less, you will burn out the dc-dc converter in it. Just ask me how I know . Just make sure to put an ample load on the 5v rail, and you'll be fine, especially with just two stock chargers.

On a side note, I need to replace the dc-dc converter in my stock charger, and I would if I knew where to get them. I was also thinking about taking it back to the hobby shop on warranty, but they have already taken the one that came with the chopper back on warranty (same problem, but it was broken when I got it), so I don't know if it is a good idea to take it back a second time.

BTW if anyone wants another charger, check out http://stores.ebay.com/RC-HELICOPTER-AIRPLANE-CAR-WORLD. He has some e-sky 2 or 3 cell lipo chargers, which are exactly the same internally, but orange on the outside for 16 bucks with shipping. They only charge at 650mA though compared to the 800mA on the stock charger, but they do charge both 2 and 3 cell lipo's


In post #17 I explain exactly what happens, and why it fries the chip with an under volt.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_54...tm.htm#5515550

Does anybody have any ideas on how to keep the battery attached to the CP Pro. Every time I charge the battery the velcro comes off my helicopter as well the battery itself. I thought about using velco straps. Any ideas !

Since no one else has replied, I have seen a battery tray made out of plastic that attaches to the CF rods that you can just drop the battery in if you are just going to be hovering. Don't remember which forum, but either the honeybee or the blade cp/pro, or other 300 size electric heli. I personally just use the rubber bands, and the super skids battery tray. To me it seems more sturdy than the stock tray.

I actually have the opposite problem as you. The velcro sticks on too hard and i have a hard time getting the battery off. I also taped the blue heatshrink that comes on the stock battery to the rest of the battery, just so the velcro didn't rip off the heatshrink.

If you make sure to clean the area real well (like with alchohol or something) before you attach the velcro, and it sticks real well to surfaces.

I got some nice velcro straps at the dollar store that are supposed to be for keeping wires tidy. I thought about using them, but the rubber bands work quite well for me.

I only use the rubber bands because i had to change the battery cuz it was faulty, but i already attatche the velcro so im just sticking with the rubber bands until i start progressing into forward flight.

I don't know how this will work, but I made a poll just to see what types of tail setups everyone is using, why they are using them, and how they are working out. If you want, check it out and respond =)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_55...tm.htm#5534073

Cool. I did that today too. Maybe next time I will try it with a battery and motor running.

I use a velcro strap on mine.

I think everyone has probably heard of the fuse mod by now. I just installed the fuse mod on the rear tail. I tested it to find out how much would make the 3A mini auto fuse pop, and I couldn't do it with the motor spinning. I completely stalled the motor, and then after about 2-3 seconds it finally popped. All-in-all a good 3 in 1 protector IMPO. Alot of people have been soldering them inline, but I wanted something more replaceable out at the field, so I used small spade connectors and heat shrinked them.

The other picture is of the battery monitor I installed that is modified to work with 3s lipo's. It is very handy, and tells you right when to land so my battery doesn't discharge too much. It's from SSG Scott over on RCgroups. If you need the info to order one from him I can get you the info. You can also see the fuse mod in this pic.

Has anyone else done the fuse mod? How is it working out? I want to do the mod on the main motor, and I have all the parts to do it, but I can't figure out where to put it. Where has everyone else put theirs? Pics would be nice too =)

Thanks!

Finally switched off the stock blades on the pro today to the plasti blades. Seems to fly about the same to me. I'm still learning to fly and can hover fine and am starting to fly around a bit more. Flat bottom blades didn't seem noticeably more stable that the stock blades to me. Just my .02.

They're great blades, though. With a minor crash and nick, 10 seconds of filing, and you're good to go.

i just got my cp pro the other day and i want to mod the tail but im not sure what mod is better the dd tail or the daul motor tail if anyone could help me out that would be awesome thanks

Tom

There are several schools of thought on which tail to use. Basically the short story is the stock motor is inadequate, and it's personal preference between the DD and the dual tail. It all depends on what you are looking for. For fun flying and peice of mind with redundancy I would say the dual tail. For hard 3d I would probably say the DD because that's what the "pro's" seem to be going with. If that's a simple enough and to the point enough explination for you to decide... just stop there =P Otherwise you can read the lengthy part for more info. Just whatever you choose IMPO it's a good idea to heatsink it and fuse it =)

I have read several forums about this because I am trying to decide also. Several of the really pro fliers like nick maxwell use the DD, so there has got to be good weight to power ratio, and good areobatic flight qualities. If you haven't seen it yet, watch this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNQeDYpWvEI

SSG Scott over on RC Groups is a military chopper mechanic with 27 years experience, and he has done alot of testing. In short what he has come up with is that the DD setup on average lasts about 2x the regular motor, and the twin tail lasts much longer than either of them because it keeps the motors much cooler (even with heatsinks), which is the main factor for failure. From his estimates the order from the least tail authority to the most is stock motor, dd, and twin tail. The other benifit to the twin tail is redundancy. When you wire the motors up, you do it in parallel (cautions to be explained later), so that when one motor burns out, the other one keeps running, which allows you to land and replace the worn motors. Both the DD and the stock motors will have you doing crazy piro's if you don't catch them going out before you fly. There are also brushless tails, but I am unsure of the exact weight on them, and those if properly taken care of rarely if ever go out.

Either way if you upgrade the tail, you will want to do the fuse mod. I have a pic of the mod I did a couple of posts earlier. This is the short and simple version

And this is the explination why
Basically the explination for this is that the power mosfets on the esc for the tail are rated at something like 6A surge. The main esc has two mosfets and is rated at 12A surge. The normal tail motor draws about 1A continuous at full power, and averages probably around 500mA. The problem is when you crash if the tail gets bound up, the motor goes into a full short current. The stock motor is about 1.7 ohm at 11.1v for a 3s lipo which works out to be 6.5A when the motor is stalled. This part of the reason why many people have fried their 4 in 1's. I'm not sure what the cn12's (gws's DD) resistance is, but it is most likely less than 1.7 ohms which would increase the amperage, so it would be a good idea to fuse that motor too. When it comes to the dual tail, I would say it is a big risk of frying your 4 in 1 if you don't fuse it, because each motor can draw 6.5A in a stall which is 7A over what the tail esc mosfet is rated for, however this logic does not apply for running amperage. Running amps measured on the dual tail motor system run the same as the single motor, or slightly less because the dual tail system puts the motors in a more efficient power curve.

SSG Scott took some nice measurements and found that either the DD setup or the twin tail add 9 to 11 grams. By his estimate, on average, the dual tail setup was slightly lighter (like 1g, but not really something significant). I'm not sure on that weight measurement if he used his custom plastic dual tail mod or if he used a CNC holder. For the DD he used the standard GWS parts.

All in all they basically weigh the same, and either one will get you better tail performance. I would definately go with a fuse, because it's cheap and easy to replace a fuse, and more expensive to replace a 3 in 1. I would also make sure to atleast single heatsink each motor, if not double. If you like redundancy I would go with the dual tail, and if you want to follow nick maxwell and others for hard 3d flying, then I would stick with their decision and go with the DD.

Hope that clears something up without being too terribly long =P (OK, so I know it's long =P, gota work on shorter posts =)

mrasmm

Also see http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_55...tm.htm#5534073