turbotime

I am having a hell of a time flying the CP Pro. I went from a 100% modified CX2 to the CP Pro. Is there a heli in between that might help out? Or should I go with a T-REX? Would a fixed pitch heli with tail rotor help? I would rather play with the real thing and not the sims. Any suqqestions? And money doen't matter to me. Thanks for the info.

mrasmm

if money doesn't matter, and you have it... and the cp pro is not something you want to take the time and be real patient on to learn, then yeah, a Trex is gona fly alot easier =)

The cx2's kind of give an over sense of accomplishment on heli's. What I mean is you think you're flying a heli when you are flying a cx2, but it's really alot different.

You could also try a 4 ch fp like the falcon 40 or the honeybee fp if you want to stick with the cpp. Those 4ch are about 100 bucks shipped. Some have found good luck with this vendor, and some have not but you can get it for the best price at www.raidentech.com. basically if your order works out, then it works out well. If it does not work out, CS is a pain to deal with.

mrasmm

oh some other things... what mods have you done to the cpp to tame it down and make it more flyable?

turbotime

Thanks for the info. I really dont have any mods to make it "fly easier" or "better" I am willing to try anything. I will probably get a T-REX to build anyways. What are your suggestions for mods? I have read some on the forums but only tried a few. I have the super skids tried the fly bar wieghts and even the flat bottom plastic blades. That was the worst. The plastic blades broke everything. What did you have in mind?

DrunkYoda

http://www.heli-max.net/mediawiki/index.php/HOWTO

nuff said

RADD and don't forget the punishment.
Mrasmm's "upgrades" for easy flight are there too.
http://www.heli-max.net/mediawiki/in..._CP_and_CP_Pro

DY

mrasmm

hehe yeah =) that is a page I'ev started but haven't quite got done yet. It sounds like you've done several of them. Some other ones that you can do is downgrade to the hiller head, move the servo arms in 1 link, upgrade to a 1300mAh lipo for extra weight, or downgrade to an NiMH pack for extra weight and lower voltage so things are not spinning quite so fast and so responsive. You could also try a gyro with HH. That will make it so you don't have to think about the tail so much. If youare gona end up with a trex I would get a futaba gy401.

Also I would double check everything and make sure that the swash is level, and all the other mechanical things are setup. Maybe if you know someone who can fly cp helis have them take a look at it and see if they can get it airborne. That's a real important one, becuase it could be that somehow something isn't setup quite right and even a good pilot would have a hard time flying your heli.

There are also some good foam blades that are only 4 bucks a set that wont break much of anything when you are flying =)

Also the paper clip mod and the fuse mod are really helpful in avoiding damange to parts.

Truglodite

a trex is easier to hover. only you can make calls on what's a reasonable investment for you given your budget.

i didn't hear anyone mention table tennis balls and sticks! shame on you if you aren't using them already.

flat bottomed woodies will also make the cpp more stable. i agree... stay clear of plastiblades.

i've come to accept superskids as a reasonable way to add durability & weight while hover training.

another beginner upgrade that i rarely hear about is a larger battery. you get more of the almighty stick time, and more hover training weight.

another rarely mentioned aide to cpp newbies: downgrade to the non-hiller cp rotor head. it's less sensitive and more built for beginners. you can always go back if you don't like it.

i've mentioned adding weight as a plus for you. just be careful piling on those training ounces; there is a practical limit to how much weight a cpp can gain. too much and it won't have enough power to recover from errors.

-kev

[edit: hehe mrasmm, you beat me to it with the hiller downgrade and the heavier lipo. nice

i second mrasmm's recommendation that you find someone who can get it flying well. when you're learning, there's nothing like grabbing the transmitter from an expert who has tuned everything perfectly. just do yourself a favor and pay close attention to what he does to it, and know that 3-4sec of hands off is fairly reasonable with a cpp in no wind.]

ArrowNaughtic

Hey turbo........... I live in Federal Way, not too far from where you are at. Lived in North Bend for about 4 years..........before that on Snoqualmie Pass for 16.
I am not an expert by any means but could certainly take a look at your setup and see if theres anything that could possibly make your life easier. I would suggest getting a set of flat woodies and try moving the servo links in one hole to start, and some added flybar weights. I had good luck with my blade cp by getting it weighted down. Training Gear will help lower your center of gravity also and helps stop some of the dreaded tipover "spindle/main masher" incidents. Shoot me a PM and will see if I can maybe give you a few ideas.


__________________________________________________ ________________________________________


Of all the things I ever lost............................................. I miss my mind the most!

dkrob

Newbie here with the Blade CP Pro. Have flown the Blade CX2 for about 6 months now and having a great time. Have since upgraded to the CPP and it is a hand full. Some questions, I have the G90 Gyro installed and the super skids and training gear. Working with Radd's program.

When you folks talk of changing to ther head, is that just changing the Blade grips only? Also, you mention of moving the servo arm link in 1 hole, how do you really now when and if you get the swash plate level? Remember I am a newbie, this is all foreign to me. Right now as I bring my CPP up to hover speed the helicopter wants to tip to the right side, why is that? The tail is locked in with the gyro so I don't have to worry to much about that. Like I said, the CPP is a handful compared to the Blade CX2.

Appreciate any input!
Hover On!

DrunkYoda

http://www.heli-max.net/mediawiki/in..._Pro_to_the_CP

Downgrading the Bell Hiller to Hiller. BH=2 links to swash per blade, H=1 ltspb link goes to flybar , flybar to swash. Requires new blade grips and a small pitch link.

DY

dkrob

What about moving the servo arms in one hole? Does that tame the CPP down a little and do you have to re-level the swash plate and how do you really know when it is level? I have the CP blade grips and just have not installed them yet as I don't want to get the helicopter all screwed up until I have a little bit of an idea of what I am doing. The assistance is greatly appreciated!
Hover On!

DrunkYoda

I think the official word is make the servo links 90degrees so make servo arm 90 degrees to servo, make control link 90 degrees to servo arm. Obviously 90 degree is a relative term since you are moving the control links to the arms in a diagonal way. I guess more like as close as possible to 90 deg.

The rest is just trial and error, if it shoots right lift the right servo up, left then left up, back then move rear up. I would take an initial measurement of the size of the links before and try to keep them somewhat close to what they are now when you move the arm in a ring.

I spent several hours at my LHS when I first got my blade, even factory it needed to be modified quite a bit.

Lastly it all comes down to feel.

DY

DVI

Turbotime
The helicopter you have will be fine to learn on. I used a Blade CP, and yes you will crash while but the parts are much more affortable for the Blade helicopters than the trex. Take ArrowNaughtic up on his offer if possible. I do agree that it might be a good idea to tone the CP pro down a little, but buying a more expensive helicopter or doing expensive modes to your helicopeter will not really help you in the long run. Get the training gear and go slow, take small steps. You'll improve over time. Good luck!

dogismycopilot

I second Truglodite!

Training gear is grrreat! Get some flat-bottomed blades, they add a little stability and they seem to be a lot more forgiving during a crash.

I don't have one, but I've heard a tail lock gyro is a big help. Also, having someone more experienced look it over and test fly it could be helpful.

Good luck!

mrasmm

yeah, I put together that article so that people would know the difference between the cp and the cpp and how to change one into the other. And yeah you only need the hiller blade grips to downgrade. To upgrade you need the mixer arms and the bell hiller grips.

As far as your setup, this is what I would do disconnect the servo links from the swash, move them all in one hole one at a time. After you are done with that, give all the links one twist clockwise (it's easier to do 2 half twists). That will make the swash pretty much as level as you have it now. Disconnect both motors and connect the battery. Put the heli in idle up and go all the way up and down on the throttle and make sure it doesn't bind. Also make sure your blade pitch is pretty close to 0 at half stick throttle and half trim, and that should do it =)

dkrob

Thanks mrasmm, being a newbie to the heli world and seeing what is all going on with the rotor head can be quite over whelming. I will work on my CPP this weekend with your suggestions. Thanks again everyone for their assistance in this great hobby. You Guy's Rule!
Hover On!