making CPP easier to fly
#1
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From: Bergen, NORWAY
hi all,
I know this thread shows up on and off, but Im asking anyhow:
I need to make my CPP a bit easier to fly while learing. So far I've got:
-New skids. I've ordered the superskids
-Paddle weights: Can I just move the inner one, say, halfway out or should I add a third weight?
-Plastic rotor blades: Do these make the thing easier to fly or just more crash-resistant?
Any other pointers to other things I could do would be more than welcome!!!
-Trond (newbie)
I know this thread shows up on and off, but Im asking anyhow:
I need to make my CPP a bit easier to fly while learing. So far I've got:
-New skids. I've ordered the superskids
-Paddle weights: Can I just move the inner one, say, halfway out or should I add a third weight?
-Plastic rotor blades: Do these make the thing easier to fly or just more crash-resistant?
Any other pointers to other things I could do would be more than welcome!!!
-Trond (newbie)
#2
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From: heli town,
CT
well I had alot of trouble flying the cp pro stock out of the box but I have changed out the stock 9 tooth pinion on the motor to a 8 tooth pinion which lowers the head speed and to me makes it more stable, I added an extra set of flybar weights to the flybar, and im using e-flite flat bottom blades, I could barley do anything with the cp pro before, but after all this stuff I did, I can hover and do forward flight with ease, hope this helps
#3
Hello and welcome to the hobby and the forum.
I would suggest staying away from the plastic blades, as they are much heavier and the heli may/will not have enough power to lift off. Like helistyle said, go with the e-Flite flat bottom wooden blades. I too have had good luck with them.
As an addition, you will want to tame the CP Pro's tail. To do this, add a gyro such as the e-Flite G90. The install procedure for the G90 is outlined in the CPP's manual. Also for your tail, you can go with a direct drive or dual tail motor set up. The direct drive would probably be the better bet for that, as the dual motor setup adds weight to the tail that can be difficult to balance out (I personally use the dual motors without issue, but most that have used it and the direct drive prefer the direct drive).
As for the headspeed, I have not changed it, but in general the higher headspeeds give greater stability of the heli. I haven't had any issue with the stock headspeed.
Hope this helps, and have fun.
I would suggest staying away from the plastic blades, as they are much heavier and the heli may/will not have enough power to lift off. Like helistyle said, go with the e-Flite flat bottom wooden blades. I too have had good luck with them.
As an addition, you will want to tame the CP Pro's tail. To do this, add a gyro such as the e-Flite G90. The install procedure for the G90 is outlined in the CPP's manual. Also for your tail, you can go with a direct drive or dual tail motor set up. The direct drive would probably be the better bet for that, as the dual motor setup adds weight to the tail that can be difficult to balance out (I personally use the dual motors without issue, but most that have used it and the direct drive prefer the direct drive).
As for the headspeed, I have not changed it, but in general the higher headspeeds give greater stability of the heli. I haven't had any issue with the stock headspeed.
Hope this helps, and have fun.
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From: Lincoln,
NE
I would recommend putting the hiller set up on from the Blade CP. It includes the CP grips and linkages. It isn't too expensive and when set up right seems to hover like a CX.
You can't move the inner weights, but all additional weights should be as close to the paddles as possible.
I fly with the plastic blades and have no problems with them. I have hit a piece of plywood before and it only put a small scratch on them. From my experiences it doesn't break anything else that a normal crash would like spindles and main shafts.
To tame the tail a gyro would help out a lot. It seems like the E-Flite gyros are the only ones that work with the CPP. I have heard the G110 and G90 work just fine.
Nick
You can't move the inner weights, but all additional weights should be as close to the paddles as possible.
I fly with the plastic blades and have no problems with them. I have hit a piece of plywood before and it only put a small scratch on them. From my experiences it doesn't break anything else that a normal crash would like spindles and main shafts.
To tame the tail a gyro would help out a lot. It seems like the E-Flite gyros are the only ones that work with the CPP. I have heard the G110 and G90 work just fine.
Nick
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From: great mills,
MD
Grab a set of micro heli MH-CP088 blades. they are longer than stock and will make your cp pro handle like a much larger heli. they work fine on the 8 tooth pinion.
#6
Trondhindenes ~
Here http://www.heli-wiki.com/mediawiki/i..._CP_and_CP_Pro
I also use a heavier batt to lower the CG. A few also use the super skids which are heavier to also help lower it. My servo rods are also moved in a hole on the servo arm, to help reduce the throw. (More tame)
Also I have used the JCS plastic blades. They work good, just make sure ya run the appropriate pinion so you don't overwork your motor. Just one blade weighs as much two woodies, or two CF blades. Check here for the specs on the pinion http://www.heli-wiki.com/mediawiki/i..._Plasti-Blades
Anyway, good luck !
Jeff
Here http://www.heli-wiki.com/mediawiki/i..._CP_and_CP_Pro
I also use a heavier batt to lower the CG. A few also use the super skids which are heavier to also help lower it. My servo rods are also moved in a hole on the servo arm, to help reduce the throw. (More tame)
Also I have used the JCS plastic blades. They work good, just make sure ya run the appropriate pinion so you don't overwork your motor. Just one blade weighs as much two woodies, or two CF blades. Check here for the specs on the pinion http://www.heli-wiki.com/mediawiki/i..._Plasti-Blades
Anyway, good luck !
Jeff
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From: raleigh, NC
I agree with the wooden blades (taped on the leading edge the last three inches), extra set of flybar weights and the gyro. However, the very best way to make the CPP easier to fly is to buy a B 400 and a spektrum reciever and convert the CPP to fly with the DX6i that came with the B400. Dialing in some expo and the other features of the DX6i makes an incredible difference in how easy it is to fly and control the CPP. I feel like I got two new helis with my B400!
#8

Hey wsdepa,
I have to agree wholeheartedly...except I did it a different (expensive) way..I bought the DX6i for my CPP first, THEN bought a B400!! Now I have two DX6i's...
But it does make a huge difference over the stock POS that Eflite includes with the CPP. That radio leaves a lot to be desired, and is difficult to control the heli with for a newbie, no doubt.
I ended up as you said, dialing in some expo, and I played with the pitch curves to slow the very high stock headspeed down some, and it really helped tame it down alot.
There is still no substitute for a good tail, either belt or shaft driven, as you know...
The CPP still has a major shortcoming with the stock tail motor setup...
Hope this helps some too...
Glenn
I have to agree wholeheartedly...except I did it a different (expensive) way..I bought the DX6i for my CPP first, THEN bought a B400!! Now I have two DX6i's...
But it does make a huge difference over the stock POS that Eflite includes with the CPP. That radio leaves a lot to be desired, and is difficult to control the heli with for a newbie, no doubt.
I ended up as you said, dialing in some expo, and I played with the pitch curves to slow the very high stock headspeed down some, and it really helped tame it down alot.
There is still no substitute for a good tail, either belt or shaft driven, as you know...
The CPP still has a major shortcoming with the stock tail motor setup...
Hope this helps some too...
Glenn
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From: Stratfort, CT
I was flying my CPP for about 6 months and could hover nose-in and tail-in, in a fairly confined space in my apartment. Every time I went outside to try moving around....crash. It is a difficult little bird to learn with. I was very resistant to buy a simulator saying "that is the easy way out, i wan't to learn to fly this myself". I finally bought a sim and practiced for at least 3 months on it, never even touching a real heli, and I became very good in the sim (not a 3d expert, but I could fly any orientation, upside down, and had very good reactions to any problems). Finally I rebuilt the CPP and went outside where I had crashed so many times before, and amazing, it felt exactly like I was in the simulator, exept for the tail which is pretty out of controll on a stock CPP. But, my reactions were so good that the tail was not at all a problem anymore, I could hold the tail very well with my own inputs. moral of the story, I went from sim hater to sim lover, from cpp crasher to cpp pilot. I always hated the constant advice on this forum "get a simualtor" but I eventually learned it is very sound advice. maybe you have one already, maybe not, other newbies reading this, try a sim.
#10
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From: Bergen, NORWAY
Hi guys, thanx a lot for the input! Ive done som modding, and set up my CPP with:
Superskids
G90 Gyro
Extra paddle weights in the flybar
I have also tried both symmetrical and flat-bottom wooden blades, but I still find it easiest to fly with the plastic blades - the heli just seems more calm. Thanks a lot for all links and hints, will continue to investigate (as I empty my wallet..)
-Trond
Superskids
G90 Gyro
Extra paddle weights in the flybar
I have also tried both symmetrical and flat-bottom wooden blades, but I still find it easiest to fly with the plastic blades - the heli just seems more calm. Thanks a lot for all links and hints, will continue to investigate (as I empty my wallet..)
-Trond
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From: Pittsburgh,
PA
What is a "B400" ? I was wondering... I have a DX6I that I use for my planes and I bought a Spektrum 6100 receiver to use in the CP Pro but I don't know what plugs would go into where. The E Flite receiver that came with it has numbered plugs and there is nothing in the manual that explains it. Do you have any idea where they will go?
#12

Mike,
A B400 is the CPP's big brother:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=EFLH1400
The receiver connections should go as follows, the servo locations assume you are sitting in the "pilots seat" of the heli...
The throttle wire from the 3 in 1 marked THRO with a tag goes to the receiver terminal marked THO, throttle or something similar
The rudder wire marked with a rudder label goes to the rudder channel of the 6100.
The Left rear servo plugs into the channel marked AUX1.
The Right rear servo plugs into the channel marked AILERON.
The front servo plugs into the channel marked ELEVATOR.
That is how mine is set up with a AR6100/6200.
Hope that helps!
Glenn
A B400 is the CPP's big brother:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=EFLH1400
The receiver connections should go as follows, the servo locations assume you are sitting in the "pilots seat" of the heli...
The throttle wire from the 3 in 1 marked THRO with a tag goes to the receiver terminal marked THO, throttle or something similar
The rudder wire marked with a rudder label goes to the rudder channel of the 6100.
The Left rear servo plugs into the channel marked AUX1.
The Right rear servo plugs into the channel marked AILERON.
The front servo plugs into the channel marked ELEVATOR.
That is how mine is set up with a AR6100/6200.
Hope that helps!
Glenn
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From: Bergen, NORWAY
Hi, just a little update on my "Taming the CPP" mission: I kept landing a bit "off", which casued my blades to hit the dirt, and thus bending the main spindle (think I went through 4 spindles already). Anyways, I swapped it for the Microheli spindle/gear, since I've heard that that combo takes much more beating before it bends. Well, it doesn't. In my opinion, the Microheli spindle actually softer than the stock. It's easier to bend back in a emergency though. Just to let you know.
-Trond
-Trond
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From: raleigh, NC
ORIGINAL: CATPart
I was flying my CPP for about 6 months and could hover nose-in and tail-in, in a fairly confined space in my apartment. Every time I went outside to try moving around....crash. It is a difficult little bird to learn with. I was very resistant to buy a simulator saying "that is the easy way out, i wan't to learn to fly this myself". I finally bought a sim and practiced for at least 3 months on it, never even touching a real heli, and I became very good in the sim (not a 3d expert,...snip
I was flying my CPP for about 6 months and could hover nose-in and tail-in, in a fairly confined space in my apartment. Every time I went outside to try moving around....crash. It is a difficult little bird to learn with. I was very resistant to buy a simulator saying "that is the easy way out, i wan't to learn to fly this myself". I finally bought a sim and practiced for at least 3 months on it, never even touching a real heli, and I became very good in the sim (not a 3d expert,...snip
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From: Stratfort, CT
wsdepa my sim is G4. The float heli taught me forward flight, and the dominion took it up a few notches. I would crank up the wind and just go crazy in there until recovery from mistakes became natural. Then i would go into multiplayer fields and dogfight people who were flying planes, which really helps with reflexes. I just tuned my cp pro yesterday, adjusting the swash and links so I can attempt some inverted flight. This is where the simulator may start working in reverse, because now i think I can fly basic 3d, i will probably start crashing again!
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From: Fargo,
ND
yeah basic 3d on the sim is not the same as basic 3d in real life , at lest not in my experiance. mostly its a question of power to weight , and setup. in the sim setups seem to be perfect, in real life most heils tend to have quirks left to be ironed out. and the power of most the models I have used in real flight g3.5 seem to have more usuable power than in real life.
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From: Lincoln,
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