hse32

for the O rings
I cut up inner tubes
The first 4 I put on is still on over 10 flights

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Robb, the 2 I broke were fine until I fiddled with the fly bar, which would tend to confirm your theory.

If you wish to construct the sleeve mentioned earlier, the od on my upper shaft is 0.19" or 4.8mm.

The shaft for the canopy is 0.06 or 1.5mm. For those looking for fuel line o-rings.

I cut out 4 of the supports of the flywheels, and it seems that they are out of balance now. The upper flywheel is caged by bearings. I will have to balance the lower flywheel. If you do not have a magnetic balancer, I would recommend not doing this mod.

Tim

nosram

Glen, at the bottom right of each post there is a link marked report. Go to any post on the mod thread, click that link and a message field will come up. Then just ask the mod to put a sticky on it. We did something similar for the aeroace on the indoor page and the mod stuck it right on top.

Also, please post any mods or improvements on the thread as well. Nosram has a good Idea and He can copy and paste his post over there. If not I just might for him in the links page.

I broke a ball off of the swash plate last night, my MCX likes it's new blades so much I have to take a couple of turns out of the elevator servo . I have a spare swash.

Tim

Tim Hi, I would appreciate if you could copy my post to the appropriate thread. I am assuming this is the mod thread. I don't understand where the mod thread is, or how you ask the mod to put a sticky on it[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

J-MICHAEL

I posted this in another thread but thought I should put it here also :


I've been lucky so far and have yet to break a part on my MCX, but I know my time is coming.... When the CX2 first came out, they didn't even have the aluminum hub yet, and guys were breaking there plastic hubs left and right also... Some guys from what I remember, would wrap dental floss and then I think it was CA, or some kind of an epoxy with it, but anyway that would also help strengthen it up for them when they were desperate... I never tried it..

Its hard for the inner shaft, just because its so small and in the event of a crash it has to withhold the force of the blades hitting, and also the flybar with usually weights attached... All in all, it doesn't like that...

2 months ago, I did an experiment and just flew the MCX without the screw altogether... My idea was weight at the time, as I was working hard to get where I'am at with it at 24 grams. But if you notice, or at least on mine, the flybar is very snug without the screw... Hek, I still had to muscle it out even when the screw was already out... I also shaved off the little bit of extra plastic until it snugged up close to my flybar, but not to close...

I've flown it since then and have never had a problem with the flight and through all the crashes, which half the time I fly outside... The thing is, when you get in a mild crash the flybar stays still in tack... But on the harder blows, the flybar will eject... I was hoping this would provide a little bit of relief to the already fragile inner shaft, and so far it seems to be working... I bought spare inner shafts when I got this a few months ago, but haven't had to use them yet. (thank-goodness)

One thing however..... If you fly outside, you may have an issue in locating the ejected flybar... Ask me how I know...LMAO... It was my best modded flybar, and I looked for hours...But inside, it works very well and not so much of an issue in locating your flybar... Anyhow, I thought I'd throw that out there for any guys that like to experiment... Its worked very well for me.

Here's a few older pics of the top portion of the head... There not the greatest quality, but you'll be able to get the idea...



Cheers,

~ Jeff

J-MICHAEL

Tim ~

I cut the same supports as you just did, and I'am sure its a lot of relief for the motors to free up some excess weight... But a few days after cutting those supports I got hungry to cut some more. Pic Below...I've been flying with those same gears right now for 2 months with no issues... Thought I'd share that info... It doesn't surprise me since the MCX is so small and not much torque really slamming the gears... Solo said those spokes are there most likely to help keep the gear true and round during the mold process. I wouldn't cut the spokes on any heli, but the MCX falls safely in the category that I did...

So, if your really bored one night, you could go for a few more eh ?! Oh come on.... I know its in ya.... I know you want to....LMAO...


Take care Tim !

J-MICHAEL

Tim ~

I put up the wrong picture on the above post... Here is the one that is the current one..

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Jeff, yep, I saw both. Nothing like going through a thread for mods. I just tried to balance my lower gear, a magntic balancer and round stock and a desire for near perfection equal me using the droplet tubes for my glue to balance the flywheel. For those of you that don't get what I said, well I got psycho ensuring the geae is close to balanced.

Tim

J-MICHAEL

Tim ~


LOL..... I forgot your hardcore..... I wish someone would throw up the weights on those MIA kits.... I've been curious what the weight is compared to stock. Oh well......Someday.......


~ Jeff

glenawil

Anyone have a buddy that reload his own bullets? If they do they could ask him to weigh the parts using their powder scale!

Best regards,
Glenn

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Glen I can weigh them, but I would have to buy them first.

Jeff, it seemed like I was having to add a ton of trim into the upper blades. Then I thought that if the bottom gear is off, then it could transmit that out of balance to the heli. The test flight will happen later.

Tim

etc1006

Jeff, paint your next flybar dayglow orange!

Charlie P.

Out of character here, but I wanted to drop in and tell you how impressed I am with the e-Flite Micro CX helicopter. I've been a member here many years and have flown fixed-wing R/C for some time (I believe the President at the time I started was Jimmy Carter). Anyway, I've never tried helicopters . . . and have little experience with electrics of any type.

Tonight I was working at a Mall show that had several local R/C clubs with our models on static display as a meet & greet for public awareness of R/C. A member of our club has recently opened his own hobby shop. He brought in two of the e-Flite Micro CX helicopters and asked us to fly them for the public. One pilot who had R/C helicopter experience took one, and I confessed to having no prior heliocopter experience. Not counting the rigid tether helicopter toy I has as a kid that would fly around a six-foot course.

Anyway, the two of us closed the mall and security had to ask us to leave. We were just having so much fun we didn't want to go home. We also had use of a Vapor indoor fixed-wing . . . and we flew that to pass the time while the CX Lipo were charging We were having a BLAST flying these little jewels under tables and over our displayed models. At one point I ran out of battery while hovering over my own 1/4 scale Ultimate (did not notice the onboard light had faded) and the CX dropped down onto a wing. No harm done. Now THAT is a "harmless" endorsement if ever there was one!

I have no idea if these fly anything like the larger helicopters, but I was (and am) flabberghasted at the crisp yaw control and response. How is that done with no tail rotor? Going from ABSOLUTE novice to an absolute novice that can take off from a table-top, fly a 30 foot figure -of-eight circuit at a constant altitude over $30,000 worth of 1/4 scale aircraft and set down in the same square-foot of table within one hour of first being handed a transmitter has impressed me to no end.

One of these babys will be in my living room soon. I don't know if I helped sell any, but I sure sold myself!

robbinsp

My Feedback: (10)

my blade is going nutz. anyone ever had the onboard gyro fail. everything is good shape mechanically to my knowledge. flew fine this morning anyways.thanks
robbinsp

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Welcome Aboard Charlie, the little guy has plenty of potential and lots of fun in it. I hear your story and picture a 30' diameter nose in circle. Yep the little guy will do both nose in and out circles. And I have a Vapor as well, that is another marvel. I am also a plank guy, most at the 1 meter size. But I do not have your time in service. I'm all electric and Lipo.

Tim

mydartswinger

The mCX flies very little like the larger, single rotor helis (if those are the larger helis you are refering to, if you're referring to the larger than the mCX helis such as the CX2, then yes). Flying a larger, single main rotor helicopter takes much more work on the part of the pilot. With an mCX (or other counter rotating helicopter), you can take your thumbs off of the sticks for a brief time to get some "rest", much like you can with an airplane. With a single rotor helicopter, you must fly the helicopter constantly, not even to neutralize the controls and stable the aircraft after a failed maneuver (as is taught/learned when flying aerobatic airplanes to stabilize the aircraft and allow it to pick up speed before pulling out). Many pilots that have progressed to the larger .90 size helicopters eventually choose to step down to a smaller .50 size helicopter due to the higher degree of concentration required to fly such a machine combined with the worry of increased repair costs after a crash. I once watched a pilot flying a Thunder Tiger Raptor 90 put on a seemingly good flight, only to find out after talking to him afterwards that he had actually lost control over it about 30+ times during the flight. This was not due to his lack of experience (maybe lack of recent experience), as he has flown 30 and 50 size nitro helis before. However, he had been flying mostly gas powered fixed wing planes in recent weeks/months and had no other heli to "warm up" with. The single rotor helis are a challenge, but not impossible. Once you can get them down, they are a very rewarding experience.

To answer your question about the crisp yaw control without a tail rotor, the mCX is a coaxial, or counter rotating, helicopter. Instead of using a tail rotor to counter the torque induced yaw, it uses a second set of main blades rotating in the opposite direction of the first set, canelling out the torque. To create the desired yaw, one rotor is slowed down or sped up to allow the torque of the faster rotor to yaw the helicopter.

Happy flying.

PipeDreams

HA HA I took all my teeth out too! I wish I had a balancer though that would be sweet! Although I wouldn't add ca to balance I would take a tiny bit off with a knife scraping instead! Why add weight when you can take it off! Any who glad you liked my Idea of putting the battery in from the front.. Did you try it yet? Glad someone with your expertise approves of my idea! Let me know what you think!

mydartswinger

Got in a picture taking mood. Some of them turned out pretty cool, so I figured I'd share some with ya'll. BTW, when this thing's out of trim, it's tough to fly with one hand and take a picture with a DSLR camera with the other. Especially so in a smaller room (or cluttered) and with the air conditioning/heater vents blowing, you don't have much time to take the shot before it comes right at 'ya or at something else.

Hope you enjoy.



See what I mean?




Happy flying.

soloboss

I just joined the others asking that the MOD thread have a sticky applied. Good work and thanks for the effort.
Soloboss

animalnut

has anyone worn out the motors if so how does it act because mine was acting funny I thought the battery was going so I bought a new one and it is the same hardly no lift and won't hold heading under acceleration of the motors it just spins out of control some one please give me some feedback[&o]

mydartswinger

I've had a similar problem with mine. However, it only happens when the battery gets low after I've been flying for about 5 or so minutes. As my battery gets low, it begins to loose altitude. When I apply power to regain altitude, she starts a slow pirouette to the left that cannot be countered. I then land and recharge the battery. Since you said that you've already replaced the battery, and it still does it, I would go out on a limb and say that it is the motor.

I've also had an even closer issue to yours with my CX2. I could give it collective and bring it off of the ground, and as long as I kept full power she wouldn't fall. However, as soon as I lowered the collective to descend, she would drop like a rock and wouldn't even come up with full throttle until she was on the ground (blades and all mechanical parts were good). She wouldn't pirouette or loose tail control, just loose altitude and not recover. I figured since it had the power to lift for the first surge of power that it was a bad battery. I replaced the battery, only to find that it would only last about 5-10 seconds longer before losing altitude. I replaced both motors and all was well.

animalnut

well just tried another battery it seems fine now that means 2/3 of my batterys have crapped out on me these things are not that old and don't have anywhere near 50 uses each what the heck is wrong with these things[:@]

mydartswinger

It's possible that you could be over discharging them. If you fly it until the red light flashes and gives you a forced auto rotation, you could be shortening the life of the battery. I do this, and am noticing a decrease in my battery's performance. If you're flying with a computer radio (such as the DX6i or DX7), you can set the down timer for 10 minutes, then fly it until it does a forced autorotation. Stop the timer at this point and check how much time remains. Subtract the amount of time remaining from 10 minutes, and that's how long the battery lasts. Subtract an additional 30 seconds to 1 minute from how long your battery lasts set your down timer for that. When you take off on each subsequent flight afterwards, start the timer, and when it goes off, land and recharge.

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Animal, I max my flight times to about6 minutes. I fly on high rates and blend my turns, that has both motors cranking at the same time for a second or so. I also like to do nose in circles alot, this is also an extra drag on the battery. I assume you are replacing your charger batteries often. After 1.35v they seem to get very unhappy. I noticed this trend on the aeroace and the Picco z a couple of years ago. I assume you do not have a regular lipo charger, so all you can do is to ensure new double a's and shorten your flights. The one thing that these TX's need is a split timer like on my optic 6, one timer is just a regular timer and the other only runs when the throttle is open.

I guess after the battery leads come back in stock I could make a rig for my watt's up meter.

Tim

Thanks, Soloboss. I'm going to go through ad add what has happened since the last update. Tim

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

RobbMac, for your fix on the inner fly bar, why not an o-ring of the same silicone fuel line that works as o-rings? If that is at the top and a colar on the bottom that should restrict the movement enough to prevent breakage.

Animal, Do you have a volt meter? The longer I think about it the more I think you are charging with used double a batteries. The mod's thread has a couple of links to charging sources. They might work better. I can't tell you what will work, because I do not have these products. I use my Accusel-6 and triton jr to charge my batteries.

The mod thread is up to date as of now.

Tim

MuggyDude

Just so you guys know the MCX completely stock with the MIA pro Edge/Phantome upgrades weighs 27.6 grams. The stock MCX weighs 28 grams.

Also, my MCX is now just drifting all over the place. There wasn't any drafts or air conditioning going, and nothing is broken or bent. Any ideas? Maybe a loose swashplate?