I have a CX2.

I did some searching and couldnt find really specific answers for these.

This may sound very novice (which I am) but can the flybar be removed without removing the shaft? I wanted to take the upper and lower blades and flybar off to check for blade balance and also to check if my shaft looked bent. Do I need to remove the flybar for this and if so....how? Also, I am getting some vibration in the tail. I mean should I have some vibration? The tail does have some damage to it including a few holes (which are taped) and an overall factory bend. I'm not sure if that would cause vibration. I have adjusted the swash plate and corrected most of the lateral drifting. I can also get the yaw pretty stable with the proportional. Also, will I get less vibration in the tail by turning the gain down? Mine is down to about 1/4 above the lowest setting.


Thanks for any advice.

You do not need to remove the flybar to check blade balance. Check blade balance before you install the blades by assembling the blades together and balancing them on the edge of a glass or the corner of a couple small boxes. see which blade hangs lowest and correct by putting a little scotch tape on the high blade. if you want, I can do a balancing for you and take some pics to post on here so you can see what to do.

As for your damaged fuselage, i recommend replacing it if it is damaged. I have also taped mine a few times, and all that serves to do is make things break off when you land hard or, as in my case, hit things. If you are having a wobble issue, remove the fly bar and make sure it isnt bent. If you have the blue CNC rotor head then all you do is unscrew the little screws, there should be 2, on each side of the rotor head and slip the flybar outta the head.

When it comes to the gain setting on your pots, use those to your own discretion.

Let me know how it goes, PM me if you would like pics of how to balance your blades.

Steve

If mcintirf spins the inner shaft with no blades attached and gets a wobble or vibration the it comes down to the shaft of the flybar. And the flybar is SOOOoooo fussy that he can probably count on that being off a little. Oddly, I had a flybar that was perfectly straight but the end weights didn't match - and of course I had vibration.
So I'll throw this in as a thought after your ideas.
Spin the inner shaft. If there is vibration, pull the flybar and spin just the shaft. Watch the head closely for any wobble.
Check that upper bearing and cup also. I've had a problem with the bearing not seating and that can really mess things up.

Have fun with your search for the vibration. If you have to, pull both shafts and roll them on a glass plate or counter top or equivalent. You'll find it. And anything bent can be straightened if you are patient.

Soloboss

Ok thanks guys. Yeah I do have the blue rotor head. Just didnt try real hard to get those tough screws out, didnt want to strip them. I have removed all of the blades and they were balanced (using the can technique). That did reduce some vibration. I just didnt check the shaft or anything because I didnt know how to remove the flybar. Now that I know I will check the rest as you suggested. What is the upper bearing and cup? I'm sure my flybar has some bend to it but it's pretty eye-straight. But just to be sure its not something else (because my shaft is new and was replaced at a hobby shop) can the broken tail section or gain effect vibration. And also, like I said before is it normal to have some vibration? I may just be becoming oc about it. On th plus side I can usually get rid of drift and yaw issues with tweaking and I am flying the thing much better.

Ya, I wouldn't worry about having a little bit of vibration, nothing's perfect. It's if you have so much noticeable vibration that it affects your flight, or starts to damage your heli, that you wanna start to worry a bit.

Are you serious? What kind of helpful advice is that?
To ssrc30: even tho one may think of even a coaxial heli as a toy, it certainly isn't. Equate your CX2 to a real heli and respect all the moving parts and thier functions. soloboss has a great ( actually the CX2 bible) page dedicated to this lil wonder. http://www.heli-wiki.com/mediawiki/i..._and_CX2_Setup
If a little vibration was on the Life Flight heli your loved ones were about to ride in, would you let it slide? For me the CX2 was one of many stepping stones to my current fleet. I learned (thru many mistakes and close calls) that setup is key. Neglect it now, and you won't really see a huge difference......... later on if you decide to move into more advanced heli's you will risk frustration, monetary loss........and possibly personal injury.


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Of all the things I ever lost....................................... I miss my mind the most!

Check your lower main gear. This gear connects to the upper blades an is usually damaged when you perform acrobatic contact with a solid object. The gear may look fine but even the slightest pull on a tooth will make the gear catch when it contacts the pinion gear, this will cause the heli to jerk, and at high speed it will vibrate. I also suggest you upgrade your blades to the kind with blade holders, the stock set-up is bogus. The stock blades won't give when they strike, they just break and e-flight sells you another set. As for the broken body, don't replace it till you can land softly. Tape it up and fly again. If you replace it whenever it breaks, you'll be wasting a lot of cash before you learn to fly good enough to really enjoy this hobby.
I've had my CX2 for six months and nearly gave up more than once. Now I can control it pretty good instead of just keeping it in the air and away from things. I've invested quite a bit of cash on repairs and i'm beginning to enjoy it more now that I can actually control it.
Don't ever concede to failure, then you've lost your money. Stick in there till you learn to control and then you've "invested" your money.

The Upper Bearing and Cup live just below the upper rotor head. It's the bearing at the TOP of the outer shaft. The inner shaft runs through the bearing. If the cup isn't seated squarely on the top of the outer shaft, the inner shaft will wobble. And if the outer shaft is bent a bit, it will cause the inner shaft to wobble. And if the very top of the inner shaft is bent, the shaft will appear to roll true on glass, but that little bit of inner shaft that fits into the head can be bent and that will make just the head wobble.

Finding shakes and vibrations is a curious endeavor. It will cause you to learn the relationships of many of the parts in the helicopter. If you have to dig deep, just go for it. Don't be afraid to pull the entire drive system apart and put it back together one piece at a time. Be certain that each component you install is correct. I can tell by the way you write that you have your wits about you and you'll likely find this to be more of a challenge than a frustration.

The Static Balance that is done when you balance the blades on two edges is just that. Static. It is certainly critical, but it's not all-telling. Dynamic is the balance that results in flight vibration and it is driven partially by the static balance. The rest of the dynamic balance is the result of the 'aero' dynamics of the blades. Each pair, upper and lower, must track correctly or you will have more noise, less power, less battery life, less lift and more vibration.

Keep after it and let us know what you find. Oh, and loose body parts can amplify the look of a vibration.

Have fun!
Soloboss

Thanks for all of the help and info everyone. Damn... I could never get the aluminum hub screws out to replace my flybar. Ended up stripping one so bad I couldnt even turn it with precison drivers or needle nose pliers. Guess I'll just get a new hub ( I can get the the allen wrench screw out) and keep this one for a back up. It's not really that bent. As for the body kit. I bought another rear. I really am getting good enough to fly without wrecking too hard anymore providing I'm not flying in any sort of wind outside. Both gears seem fine and they turn smoothly. I think if anything is causing vibration its the flybar, gain or possibly a slightly bent inner shaft. I'm hesitant to try to take the shaft out though. Havent had much luck in removing various screws. Those yahoos at the hobby shop really put some of them on tight...hence my stripping one of the hub screws. Oh...and has anyone bought the E-flite pack of screws and knows if it has replcement screws for the aluminum inner shaft hub?

Thanks again.