Which Connectors?
#1
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From: Left of Center,
NJ
I just ordered an E-flite Mini Ultra Stick, and a 11.1v 2100mAh battery. I've decided to go with the Accucycle charger, and get a balancing charger a bit later. So my question is, what connectors are you guys using? I'm leaning toward Deans, unless someone has any better suggestion, or reason I shouldn't use them in either parkflyers or glow. However the charger manual says it is not suggested that you solder your own leads. Not sure why they would have a problem with that, but what Else is one to do? Since NOTHING in this hobby seem standardized, I don't see any other choice but to solder my own. Am I missing something here?
#2
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From: Medellin -AntioquiaAntioquia, COLOMBIA
Don't worry. you always can solder your own leads. Please read carefully this reply.
Connect the charger to a fully charged car battery whit a capacity of at least 60Ah. If you decide to operate the charger from a 120V/240V to 12V or 13.8V DC power supply ("battery eliminator"), then make sure this power supply is well regulated, can supply continuous DC at least over 10% of your charge current, has a very high output capacitance, very low ripple and is insensitive to the frequency of the charger's internal switching voltage converter.
You should always use a high quality, gold-plated connectors like a 4mm bullet type connectors , Deans Ultra plug, APP Modular connectors in the charge cables to your batteries. Also, use heavy duty Flex silicon insulated cables ( MAX 10" TOTAL LENGTH ).
Take care to produce sound soldered joints, no- "soldered blobs" or dry joints. ONLY BRIGTH JOINTS. Your flight packs should already be fitted with gold-contact connectors. tin platted connectors are completely unsuitable as their transfer resistance is high and they are prone to intermittent contact. Be sure that your cables are well (strong) soldered to the plugs and sockets. do not fasten with screws. Use a high quality Lead-Free, already 3/64" diameter solder like a 60/40 Rosin-Core solder, 60/40 Kester Solder. You can apply ( but no necessary ) liquid Rosin flux from Trinity to the area to be soldered to help the solder adhere better.
HURRY. NOW YOU ARE READY TO MAKE THOUSANDS OF SOLDERED LEADS
Carlos Garcia
Connect the charger to a fully charged car battery whit a capacity of at least 60Ah. If you decide to operate the charger from a 120V/240V to 12V or 13.8V DC power supply ("battery eliminator"), then make sure this power supply is well regulated, can supply continuous DC at least over 10% of your charge current, has a very high output capacitance, very low ripple and is insensitive to the frequency of the charger's internal switching voltage converter.
You should always use a high quality, gold-plated connectors like a 4mm bullet type connectors , Deans Ultra plug, APP Modular connectors in the charge cables to your batteries. Also, use heavy duty Flex silicon insulated cables ( MAX 10" TOTAL LENGTH ).
Take care to produce sound soldered joints, no- "soldered blobs" or dry joints. ONLY BRIGTH JOINTS. Your flight packs should already be fitted with gold-contact connectors. tin platted connectors are completely unsuitable as their transfer resistance is high and they are prone to intermittent contact. Be sure that your cables are well (strong) soldered to the plugs and sockets. do not fasten with screws. Use a high quality Lead-Free, already 3/64" diameter solder like a 60/40 Rosin-Core solder, 60/40 Kester Solder. You can apply ( but no necessary ) liquid Rosin flux from Trinity to the area to be soldered to help the solder adhere better.
HURRY. NOW YOU ARE READY TO MAKE THOUSANDS OF SOLDERED LEADS
Carlos Garcia
#3
I know they are not as popular as Deans, but I've been using Sermos (aka Anderson Power Poles) on all my battery, ESC, and charger connections. I invested in the crimper specifically made for these connectors so can have high quality connections in no time without soldering.
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From: Brampton,
ON, CANADA
Deans are great, if only for their versatility. They're good for applications up to 110 amps. Not many other connectors can boast amp ratings like that. And they're very light, too.
The only real reason I can think of not to use them is that they can be a bit annoying to unplug when they're brand new. Once they've had a few passes in and out they're OK, but they can be pretty stiff out of the package.
Certainly not a deal breaker, and alot of people have come up with interesting ways of overcoming this, including grinding indents into the plug for more grip, attaching hooks, covering the contacts with grapphite (pencil) to make them more slippery, etc.
The only real reason I can think of not to use them is that they can be a bit annoying to unplug when they're brand new. Once they've had a few passes in and out they're OK, but they can be pretty stiff out of the package.
Certainly not a deal breaker, and alot of people have come up with interesting ways of overcoming this, including grinding indents into the plug for more grip, attaching hooks, covering the contacts with grapphite (pencil) to make them more slippery, etc.



