redmoon

Where are the motors on that conversion Neurotex?

Neurotex

No motors- it's a spoof.
I cut the wings off to test glide some other wings for a jet I'm
building and just pinned the wings on ****wkcab.[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

The pic is an idea of what I'm shootin for.
Not sure about the CG (red dot) or the location of the prop slots.
The elevator is adjusted at the rear which is flat. Should the tail
be angled up slightly? Any ideas?

micro_builder

My Feedback: (1)

you sure know how to pick the challenging designs, neurotex i assume this is the one based off the S-37?

i ran across a thread not long ago that was talking about canards, someone mentioned that the canard wing should be near the stall point for its angle of attack, for more autostability when/if it stalls out. plus, with a more forward CG, it makes it a bit more stable as well. although, stalling might not even be an issue with its forward swept main wings.

you should build a real basic balsa or foam chucker, so you can adjust the angles without having to worry about messing up the finished product (or losing all the time you invested in the finished product). if the balsa/foam chucker gets trimmed well enough, you could just stick in some AA electronics and then work out the thrust angles. once all that is done, you can just copy it and put it all to work on the finall build.

i'd start with the elevator at 0, with the main wings at 0 as well, and then have the canards at 3 degrees positive (who knows what the needed angle would be). with everything else at 0 except the canards, you wouldnt have as many variables to deal with all at once. if you find a sweet spot, then you could use the elevator to really tune it in for a better climb rate or more flat glides. i dont know if you bookmarked this link, but you had posted it a while ago, it might prove usefull in finding the CG: http://adamone.rchomepage.com/cg_canard.htm

nick

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

I'll work more on the psycho jet tomorrow, I took a couple of days off. I had planes that would not fly straight act right when I put the tach to them. And then fly straight, and a mod attempt to brain me for the knife time it got. I also ordered a case of picoos. Assuming they are genuine, And I'll find out soon, does anyone wish to form a group to buy more? The gentleman I bought them from wants to sell cases. They average out at 45 a bird. Let me know if that is interesting. Also remember I have to ship it to you, could get to 50-60 quick. Tim

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Congrats monster on your sale. Tim

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

I just about ordered a twin fury from the UK. Has anyone got one? I wish spinmaster would get off there hands and import more of the x-twin line of products. Tim

Just a thought, If several of us get together to buy the product from the UK we could split the shipping up. We'd have to game the system to to see where shipping was cheapest into the US, and then go from there. Tim

Neurotex

Thanks again micro! I'll make a smaller foam glider at about half
scale. I'll start everything at 0 and make the canard adjustable
as well as the wing, that way I can try out quick adjustments.

With the final plane I'm going to start with the fuselage first and
build it flat in sheets, lay 2 sticks of hard balsa length wise and then
build it up from there, installing the wings and rudders last.
On the S-37 the wings have a nice dihedral. More than most jets.
Should be an interesting build.

Haven't tried that link yet. I'm wondering if the calculator will even
take these wing measurements.

googledperson

guys i got a new jet today and man is it powerful! its a c and is way better than the B i used to have. Hard to see at night though (its black). Also, i finished my mini p-38 lightning it flies pretty well but i thing the power is a bit much for the wing area. It boosts around and is hard to put into a turn. I also broke the fuse in half when i drove it into my house full speed. It was really easy to remake though, i got the plans of aatoolbox

micro_builder

My Feedback: (1)

no problem, Neurotex. just out of curiosity, how big is the final version going to be?

googledperson, the P-38 is an excellent candidate for the AA equipment. i've built a number of them over the past couple years and they're a good little flyer. i think RolfPW and i used the same plans and built them close to the same time, i think his was larger though. whats the wingspan on yours? if the span is small, then the tail booms might be too close together to make a tight turn.

nick

monstermaker13

i was hopin for 70$ {i bought it for 110$!}

Neurotex

I'm thinking a 9" wingspan with 26- 28 sq. inches of wing area.
This test glider has a 6.5" wingspan and is extremely stable. I'm amazed at how
stable it really is. After cutting rudder flaps it's still stable even in tight turns.
The nose won't drop. The guy who dreampt this design up is a genius. I don't
think the S-37 was the first.

The glider is flat hot glued to a balsa stick. Cut exactly from the plan I posted above.
0 on the canard and wing with the rear flap up 5- 7 degrees.
The dihedral is about 30 for each wing from the fuselage with some clay at the nose.
CG is about where the leading edges meet the center of the fuse.

Fleet of foamies that would make great AA conversions.

googledperson

the wings span is about 8" in the larger wing and no more than 5" in the back wing. I think i might just move the motors out. Also, where did you put your lipo and stuff.

micro_builder

My Feedback: (1)

nice little chucker, Neurotex. have you tested its "anti-stall" abilities by chucking it up at a high angle?

hope the final build goes as well for ya, its a good looking design.

nick

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

GP, if you think the motors are to fast I have some half speed motors and mounts. Tim

Neurotex

Moving the motors out would make it more stable. A larger wing might
help also. I usually mount the lipo forward the RX and use it to balance
the plane for CG.
Finding a place to house and hide the RX and lipo is the tricky part. If you
don't want to build up anything for it just mount them to the fuselage stick.

Ayrton S

Hey all!

Does anyone have some data on the effect of increasing the length of the tail boom on an AA? Our indoor season starts this weekend and I'm going to take my extended wing (winglet) mod along to give the other guys something to laugh at/ dodge.

BUT, the tail looks really short now with the enormous wingspan. Based on the 'if it looks right it'll fly right principle', well, it don't! I've got some nice long black drinking straws, unfortunately exactly the same diameter as the tail boom. Anybody tried this? I could even save some weight too.

BTW, the mod actually glides much better in the wingletted format, and I've improved the glide further (in the bedroom) by moving the BluTak ballast from the nose to the tail. Haven't tried powered flight with this mod since I lost it on its maiden - I reckon indoors should tame it tho!

Incidentally, (and this is from about 6 pages ago, Ive been out of touch a bit!) re the SKODA plane featured by Neuro or Micro; Skoda still make cars in Europe (Czech Republic actually) recently under VW management. Before the takeover they were the butt of many crappy car jokes such as "what do you call a Skoda with twin exhausts? - a wheelbarrow!" and "what do you call a Skoda with a sunroof? - a dumpster!" (see what I did there I americanised the original text from 'skip' to 'dumpster' sorry rambling).

Cheers

Ayrton

Neurotex

If you have a larger wing I'd lengthen the boom for better balance.
Start by making the length of the plane at about 80-85% of the wingspan.
So if the wingspan is 20 inches the length of the plane from nose to tail
should be around 16 inches.
I know many will disagree with this but that's how I start.
Jets I do different. On a jet the length is greater than the wingspan because
the chord is greater.
Adding to the boom length means you might have to add more weight to the
nose unless you find something very light. Try a carbon fiber tube. I was using
a BK soda straw there for a while which worked fairly well.

Ha, Skoda!

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Ayrton, I'm trying to figure out what your flying. Got Pix? should your bird go to the mod thread? Tim

Ayrton S

Thanks guys!

I'll definitely try the 80/85% rule using a drinking straw - that would make the fuz about 10" long - quite a lot longer than now. I'll report back on results.

Tim, the mod is just a bog standard 'take off the bottom wings and stick them on the end of the top ones with tape' mod - I did chamfer them a bit to get the dihedral to be continuous (ie straight line) - as features on page one of this here, now officially the longest thread in the history of blogging, possibly!

Cheers

Ayrton

ps why do Skodas have heated rear windows?

msim

I don't mean to be rude coming in on a different topic, but I need some help with a AA jet problem.
One of the motors is running faster than the other, and sometimes it doesn't spin until i touch it or tap it a bit.
the blade kinda moves in and out a bit, and that leads me to believe that it isn't having contact with something inside the motor that makes it spin. I haven't had any bad crashes with it (flown it about 15 times).
If someone would suggest this is the problem I would like a solution. I am also thinking that some wires have come undone either inside the motor or inside the body. I would just like some suggestions and help from people with more experience with AA than me before I tear up my AA jet.

ahaacobbler

Hello,

Question about the stir stick mod.

But first and introduction. I was lucky enough to pick up my first AA at target when they had that $17.48 clearance in maybe June. I put in on the shelf for a couple of weeks before I ever opened it. Obviously that was a big mistake. As soon as I flew it the first time, I ran back to target to buy the rest of them. Called all over several states, but of course they were all sold out of the clearance pack. Searching on line at that time for a place to buy more AAs cheaply, I came accross this forum and have been lurking ever since. I have also tried some of the mods like the stering mod and the mono wing mod. I now have 2 bipes and the jet with maybe 100 hours on them. I fianlly joined RC Universe today and this is my first post. I joined because you can't search the posts unless you are a member. I was trying to figure out exactly what the stir stick mod is supposed to do. The photos are pretty self explanitory, but not totally.

Anyway, the question is what is the purpose of the stir stock mod. What I got from what seems to be the original post on the topic was that it is intended to keep the "wings from floating the fuse." What does that mean? Is this to increase the rigidity of the wings? Does it change the dihedral of the wings - adding tension or compression?

Thanks in advance for your explanation.

Neurotex

msim, there is a natural bearing play that allows you to pull & push
the prop in just a bit.
It could be the shaft between the prop and motor has gunk. Clean
the lint out and put a drop of lubricant there.
Check that before ripping into it.

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Ahaacobbler, The stir stick mod came about out of annoyance, I was annoyed at a jet/mono mod that refused to fly(and still does refuse to fly) and when I picked up my regular flyer the winglets had been sliced up badly. I was tired of taping wings together.

The goal was to keep the wing from flexing so much that allows the prop to eat a hole in the lower wing. I started with 4 toothpicks but discovered a flaw with that idea rather quickly, toothpicks are sharp. The toothpicks did prove that the concept could work.

The concept is that by keeping the wing in positive contact with the fusealage(fuse) the energy of the motors is used more effeciently(sp?). When the plane has all 4 wing surfaces attached to each other force, or energy, is transmitted to the lower fuse via the lower wing. The wings also flex under load, this dissipates the energy and tears holes in the lower wing. On a new AA removing the lower wing and spars could leave you wondering whether the plane is flyable.

With the single stir stick mod, one per wing, the plane keeps an ability to have wing roll and transmit the energy to the lower fuse to help bank. With a plane in this mode you need to practice more, because you can turn hit the gas and flipback to pretty close to your original heading. I consider my personal single stir stick mod as my stunt plane. The other stir stick mod is the double stir stick mod. This is 2 stir sticks per wing meeting at a single point on the fuse. This keeps the wing from rolling as much by transferring the for both the front and rear of the wing to the fuse

These mods should not change the angles of the wings. The question of the wing coming loose from the fusealage is due to more pressure on the "glue" used to hold the wing to the fusealage. A bit of scotch tape, I recommend the purple gift tape it is stickier than the green stuff, will solve that problem. For info on lengthes et. c. check the mod page.

Tim

Sorry for being such a blowhard, did this answer your question?

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

happy birthday marines. semper fidelis, tim

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

Has anyone tried out the air rage a-6? They have them at the local K-mart and seem to be intrigueing, but last time I went for a new plane(entity) it was crap. Tim