converting free flight kits
#1
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From: , TX
What sort of things would I have to take into consideration when converting free flight kits into Micro RC?
I'm mostly concerned with the control surfaces, I know size would matter and the amount that the surface moves will also be a factor, I'm just curious how much its going affect me.[:@]
I'm mostly concerned with the control surfaces, I know size would matter and the amount that the surface moves will also be a factor, I'm just curious how much its going affect me.[:@]
#2
Inless you used 2 motor speeds to turn you wouldent have to worry. Main thing is picking the right radio for the plane and centering the cog.
#3
Depends on what FF you start with and what parts you plan on putting into it.
I've got a Hobbico FlyZone Dehavilland Mosquito on the way I hope to be able to transfer a AirHogs Rx/ESC and LiPo into. No control surfaces to worry about.
I like the looks and didn't want a flats.
Ric
I've got a Hobbico FlyZone Dehavilland Mosquito on the way I hope to be able to transfer a AirHogs Rx/ESC and LiPo into. No control surfaces to worry about.
I like the looks and didn't want a flats.

Ric
#4
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From: Lafayette, IN
The only issue we had with a free flight conversion was wing incidence. Once we dialed that in for rc flight it didn't want to climb so badly and actually made for a very good flyer.
#5
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From: Camarillo, CA
Most FFs will convert easil. If you start from a stick-and-tissue model, the control surfaces are generally defined by a spar. I double the spar with 2 pieces of wood, build the surfaces and cut the control surfaces from the assembly. Foam models ussually have the control surfaces embossed, and they can be cut free. On either type of construction, CF rods make good stiffeners and connectors (for the two elevator halves). Most rubber models are designed to be strong enough to hold the tension of a wound motor, and subtituting light R/C gear only requires adding a few peices to make equipment mounts.
The biggest issue I find is making a suitable motor mount; this often involves making a fire wall from ply and/or balsa, beam mounts, etc. Rubber models tend to have cavernous nose plugs to allow stretch winding, and sometimes these are a problem.
The biggest issue I find is making a suitable motor mount; this often involves making a fire wall from ply and/or balsa, beam mounts, etc. Rubber models tend to have cavernous nose plugs to allow stretch winding, and sometimes these are a problem.
#6

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From: Saugus,
CA
I've seen quite a few people with little electric F/F planes that were converted over to R/C and they flew quite well! I actually thought about doing that myself. I have a little 14" free flight from Harbor Freight Tools I bought for $7. and was going to convert it, but shortly after, the plane caught a thermal and flew away before I got around to it.
You can convert anything really, if you want to put forth the effort.
Eric
You can convert anything really, if you want to put forth the effort.

Eric
#7
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From: Camarillo, CA
Eric,
If that 14" FF was the 'Lightning', the Cessna-like model, it is a great choice to convert. I've built a number of them with the old RFFS, a couple of actuators for rudder/elevator, and they are great fliers...
If that 14" FF was the 'Lightning', the Cessna-like model, it is a great choice to convert. I've built a number of them with the old RFFS, a couple of actuators for rudder/elevator, and they are great fliers...
#8

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From: Saugus,
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Yep, Yellow and White cessna. (was) I should say.
I'll grab another when they are on sale again. Flies great as a F/F or R/C. I was going to make mine 1ch.
I'll grab another when they are on sale again. Flies great as a F/F or R/C. I was going to make mine 1ch.



