rjtw

Isaw theseinteresting connectors("MKRod End Adjusters")at CHS the other day and thought Imight give them a try on an upcomingSebart Wind 50. I've done a search on the forum and came up with just a couple of hits on these. Can anyone share any experiences (good or bad)using these? I'm trying to decide if they're going to be "better" than standard ball links. How about the MKbrand versus the CHS brand? http://www.centralhobbies.com/contro...e/rod_ends.htm

These look pretty nice too same question...
















Thanks!!
Rick

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

I've used the MK stuff for years. Always worked great for me.

Arch

TonyF

My Feedback: (92)

Not needed on an electric model. I used Hayes links on my first Partner for 1000 flights with no wear. Ball bearings were needed with IC engines but with extremely little vibration on an electric they're just not necessary.

jarvis johnson

My Feedback: (15)

Central makes a copy of the MK's, they are gray in color, very good and cheaper than the MK, you should give them a try

J Lachowski

My Feedback: (46)

The NMP's(D.A.R.E.) from Central work fine too. Have used them on smaller planes. Haven't tried them on a 2M ship.

toddblose

My Feedback: (10)

I have CHS on all of my 2m planes. I use the 2mm rod ends with .70 carbon solid rod. make sure if you use them you put the bolt
through the side where you can see the bearing, if not they can pop off of the bearing.

icicles

I found the Central Hobbies DARE ball links far superior to the MK Ball bearing links, no slop whatsoever

If you don't tighten up the 2mm bolt up enough on the MK ball bearing ones you end up with a little slop between the bolt and the ID of the bearing. The 2mm bolt is really 1.85mm by the time it's threaded. The other MK ones look interesting, can't comment on it though.

On my 2m electric pattern ships i use a DARE at one end and a Great Planes nylon clevis at the other [X(]

Chris

greg_m

whats a DARE?

Good advice toddblose as I have just fitted ball bearing connectors to my 2m plane and had suspicion that was the case (popping off) so fitted them as you described anyways...

icicles

Dual Axis Rod End, NMP

Light no slop

http://www.centralhobbies.com/contro...e/rod_ends.htm


Chris

rjtw

Thanks for the replies, this is great advice &information. I'll be running Futaba S9551's on aileron/rudder and want things as tight as possible, will make the final choice once Iget to installation. Again thanks to all who replied!
Rick

rjtw

Hi Todd,
Nice setup you have there. Ilike how you mounted the servo such that the BBlinks only rotate along their axis in one dimension (no twist, just rotate). The control horns are cool too!

Ihaven't used a solid carbon rod like that before. How do you attach it to the end links?

Rick

toddblose

My Feedback: (10)

I use Medium CA and let it dry... No kicker Also be sure and sand each end before gluing.

EHFAI

If you'd like some adjustment option with Todd's linkage use a STEEL 2-56 thread coupler on one end. (Available from BVM - drill opening to 0.072".)

dreadnaut

My Feedback: (5)

I got some ball bearing links from Hobby King. They were really cheap, and I'm not just talking price. The MK ones are better. The blue anodized one in the pic. are good quality but kinda heavy. The DuBro ball links work just as good.

rjtw

Idecided to give the blue aluminum links pictured in my first post a try. At $4.29 a pair they were a (relative)bargain, and they certainly have a different look. And, with aluminum, I am sure strength would not be an issue!

But, after receiving them and looking them over, I'm not going to use them. There is the tiniest bit of slop in between the metal ball and its retaining ring. Ican do better with Du-Bros from the local hobby shop or the hardware included in the kit. Imay still opt to give the DAREconnectors or the MKBBconnectors a try. In the meantime, for anyone else considering the CHSaluminum links, Iwould not recommend them.

Rick