Converted Black Magic VF3
#1
Thread Starter
Converted Black Magic VF3
For those interested. I finially finished converting my YS VF3 over to EP. Changing motor mounts and getting weight out.
The plane was 10.lbs with the YS-170 in it without fuel. The conversion with a Hacker A60-7S-V2 and a CC-80-HV ready to fly without motor flight packs is 7.86+/-lbs. The flight weight with True RC 15C/5000 packs (640oz per) is 10.86lbs. I have other areas yet to exploit weight from (gear, wheels, spinner, prop. FASST reciever, and lighter flight batteries). Just switching to F3A Unlimited packs at 592grams will get me down to about 10.5 lbs or so.
I would not have made weight or teetered on it, if I left in the pre-fabricated mount from Esprit Rc in it. The mount is a great mount, but making my own out of wood reduced the weight by more than half. I have posted some photo's of the completed project. More photo's to folow with the ducting, etc.
bholsten
The plane was 10.lbs with the YS-170 in it without fuel. The conversion with a Hacker A60-7S-V2 and a CC-80-HV ready to fly without motor flight packs is 7.86+/-lbs. The flight weight with True RC 15C/5000 packs (640oz per) is 10.86lbs. I have other areas yet to exploit weight from (gear, wheels, spinner, prop. FASST reciever, and lighter flight batteries). Just switching to F3A Unlimited packs at 592grams will get me down to about 10.5 lbs or so.
I would not have made weight or teetered on it, if I left in the pre-fabricated mount from Esprit Rc in it. The mount is a great mount, but making my own out of wood reduced the weight by more than half. I have posted some photo's of the completed project. More photo's to folow with the ducting, etc.
bholsten
#3
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ossining,
NY
Posts: 2,819
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Converted Black Magic VF3
Great job!
Yep, there are some places to lose some weight.
But just for giggles you ought to leave that starter-scuffed spinner on the nose, lol!
Yep, there are some places to lose some weight.
But just for giggles you ought to leave that starter-scuffed spinner on the nose, lol!
#4
Thread Starter
RE: Converted Black Magic VF3
Yeah,..I thought about that but since I removed YS from the Dragon decal on the nose. I feel it would not have the same affect,..LOL.
Thanks.
bholsten
Thanks.
bholsten
#5
Thread Starter
RE: Converted Black Magic VF3
When I did the conversion; I did it so it could also be converted back to the YS later if need be with very little effort.
No point in that, but someone else that may end up with it might want to. Who knows!!
bholsten
No point in that, but someone else that may end up with it might want to. Who knows!!
bholsten
#6
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Orlando,
FL
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Converted Black Magic VF3
Hi:
I am finally converting my BM to electric. I like the setup you have for the connectors from the motor to the ESC. Whewre did yuou get those?
Thanks,
Orlando
I am finally converting my BM to electric. I like the setup you have for the connectors from the motor to the ESC. Whewre did yuou get those?
Thanks,
Orlando
#7
Thread Starter
RE: Converted Black Magic VF3
Orlando,
I purchased those at Lowes. It comes in a one piece bus bar with nine terminals (in the section of electrical with the heat shrink). I put it on the band saw and grouped them into three's, two spares. You will have to tin the ends of the wires with solder or the wires will flatten out and not compress betwwen the screw and the block. I am running at a "max" Amperage of about 67-69 amps in the FAI-P & F program's. I have used these for years in other areas of the electronics industry with AC and DC voltage.
The only reason I used this bus bar is because the wires on the Hacker A-60-7S-V2 are about 12-14 guage wire (too small and it needs to be changed) and the Castle 80HV wires are about 8-10 guage. Matching or converting the bullet connectors was not entertaining and soldering them would only create a higher resistance point the solder joint.
I have had no issues with the setup so far. Just check the screws once in a while, Preventive maintenance goes a long way in this hobby.
Any question, let me know.
bholsten
I purchased those at Lowes. It comes in a one piece bus bar with nine terminals (in the section of electrical with the heat shrink). I put it on the band saw and grouped them into three's, two spares. You will have to tin the ends of the wires with solder or the wires will flatten out and not compress betwwen the screw and the block. I am running at a "max" Amperage of about 67-69 amps in the FAI-P & F program's. I have used these for years in other areas of the electronics industry with AC and DC voltage.
The only reason I used this bus bar is because the wires on the Hacker A-60-7S-V2 are about 12-14 guage wire (too small and it needs to be changed) and the Castle 80HV wires are about 8-10 guage. Matching or converting the bullet connectors was not entertaining and soldering them would only create a higher resistance point the solder joint.
I have had no issues with the setup so far. Just check the screws once in a while, Preventive maintenance goes a long way in this hobby.
Any question, let me know.
bholsten