BJ Craft - Nuance 120
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RE: BJ Craft - Nuance 120
Guys
Thank for your comments, Lazer I looked at the Rotomax but I think it is too wide and short to fit in the typical nose of a pattern model , it would probably be fine in a Yak or similiar, it is quite a bit more expensive than the G110 line so is maybe better quality.
Bem, I chose this motor to try and get similiar perfomance to what you are getting, I was looking for around 1850 watts on 8S and this motor seemed to fulfill the requirements, I was running the 18x10 APC.
My AXI 5330 / 18 is giving 1960 watts at 70 amps on the 20x10APC and almost the same on the 19x12.
I have had another e-mail from Hobby King still suggesting the 18x10 prop was too big and they still reckon it was drawing 110 or so amps. I ran it through e-calc and it came uo with 69 amps at 7013 rpm. I did set my top end throttle to limit the amps at 65 and never got the cahnce to run it for the 15 second max burst at full power, typically I only use full throttle for a few seconds at a time on uplegs and am than at zero throttle on the downleg.
I would be interested to hear any more thought on whether you think the problem is my own doing, I always check my prop sizing on e-calc and then do several ground runs with the watt meter before flying. f3o5A offered the opinion that the failed motor connection solder joint on the first flight could have caused a phase disruption and consequent current spike. The motor winding do not appear to have "burned" the winding assembly has moved forward on the shaft and come into contact with the inner face of the magnet housing.
John
Thank for your comments, Lazer I looked at the Rotomax but I think it is too wide and short to fit in the typical nose of a pattern model , it would probably be fine in a Yak or similiar, it is quite a bit more expensive than the G110 line so is maybe better quality.
Bem, I chose this motor to try and get similiar perfomance to what you are getting, I was looking for around 1850 watts on 8S and this motor seemed to fulfill the requirements, I was running the 18x10 APC.
My AXI 5330 / 18 is giving 1960 watts at 70 amps on the 20x10APC and almost the same on the 19x12.
I have had another e-mail from Hobby King still suggesting the 18x10 prop was too big and they still reckon it was drawing 110 or so amps. I ran it through e-calc and it came uo with 69 amps at 7013 rpm. I did set my top end throttle to limit the amps at 65 and never got the cahnce to run it for the 15 second max burst at full power, typically I only use full throttle for a few seconds at a time on uplegs and am than at zero throttle on the downleg.
I would be interested to hear any more thought on whether you think the problem is my own doing, I always check my prop sizing on e-calc and then do several ground runs with the watt meter before flying. f3o5A offered the opinion that the failed motor connection solder joint on the first flight could have caused a phase disruption and consequent current spike. The motor winding do not appear to have "burned" the winding assembly has moved forward on the shaft and come into contact with the inner face of the magnet housing.
John
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RE: BJ Craft - Nuance 120
Just a quick update, after a further exchange of e-mails HK have asked me to return the motor for a warranty claim. Keeping my fingers crossed on this one but not getting my hopes up too high!
John
John
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RE: BJ Craft - Nuance 120
What can I say, my G110-210kv is still going strong, even in the heatwave we are currently (no pun intended) enjoying. I've been out again today having had some wing servo issues and wanted to do some more flight testing (yes all is well now) and during my last very pleasing flight even carried out a knife edge immelmen turn from the bottom up and the power just held all the way through!!
I'm firmly convinced you've had a Friday afternooner John. The facts you have provided for motor calcs is from tried, tested and trusted means, ok there may be very minor and I mean minor environmental differences which may promote slight differences in data recorded, but not by that much that would cause such catastrophic failure that you have experienced. Overall I'd like nothing more to hear that you get the chance to try a replacement motor and experience the success with it that you should have first time around, here's hoping for you!
Andy.
I'm firmly convinced you've had a Friday afternooner John. The facts you have provided for motor calcs is from tried, tested and trusted means, ok there may be very minor and I mean minor environmental differences which may promote slight differences in data recorded, but not by that much that would cause such catastrophic failure that you have experienced. Overall I'd like nothing more to hear that you get the chance to try a replacement motor and experience the success with it that you should have first time around, here's hoping for you!
Andy.
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RE: BJ Craft - Nuance 120
Andy
If HK refund my money I am not going to replace the G110, the AXI is giving me the result I want and I have confidence in that motor. However I have just ordered a Monolog 70 from Chris and I will buy a Turnigy SK3 4025-500kv with a dilux 70 amp ESC with my refund (works out around $70) which is good value. I already have a Turnigy SK3 5065 - 280 which has been fine for 2 years in a Wind 110 so I am more confident with the SK3 series motors than the G110.
John
If HK refund my money I am not going to replace the G110, the AXI is giving me the result I want and I have confidence in that motor. However I have just ordered a Monolog 70 from Chris and I will buy a Turnigy SK3 4025-500kv with a dilux 70 amp ESC with my refund (works out around $70) which is good value. I already have a Turnigy SK3 5065 - 280 which has been fine for 2 years in a Wind 110 so I am more confident with the SK3 series motors than the G110.
John
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RE: BJ Craft - Nuance 120
Just a quick update, HK have credited my account with the cost of the G110, good result although I had to write a few e-mails! I have ordered the Turnigy SK3 4025-500 and ESC for my new Monolog 70.
John
John
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RE: BJ Craft - Nuance 120
A somewhat satisfying end result then John!
As for my G110, it just keeps pulling like a train......................one very happy bunny.
Andy.
As for my G110, it just keeps pulling like a train......................one very happy bunny.
Andy.
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I see you are out of stock on the Fantasista.
Any plans to stock the Nuance 120 or other 110/120 size designs?
#83
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I know Rodney we underestimated the demand for the plane. The next shipment from BJ Craft will have many of the Fantasista. You have to see the plane to appreciate it. Absolutely impressive. It has stunning beauty. Akiba has an eye for estitics.
We have people installing the Hacker 7XS motors. It runs on an 8S setup. In the near future we will be stocking 4S lipos too. It has a flying stab. I wish we had a dozen of them. Soon....
We are developing a cheap 120 sized plane that will be our first model under our name plate called the Snapdragon. We are in final testing. We hope to be around $500.
Also we have a very large shipment of Sebart Mythos 125 and Wind 110's coming from Sebart in the next 3 weeks. So plenty of things coming. Mike
We have people installing the Hacker 7XS motors. It runs on an 8S setup. In the near future we will be stocking 4S lipos too. It has a flying stab. I wish we had a dozen of them. Soon....
We are developing a cheap 120 sized plane that will be our first model under our name plate called the Snapdragon. We are in final testing. We hope to be around $500.
Also we have a very large shipment of Sebart Mythos 125 and Wind 110's coming from Sebart in the next 3 weeks. So plenty of things coming. Mike
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you could shoot an email to Chris at www.bondaero.co.uk , he has a couple in stock right now and could ship one to you I'm sure.
#85
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I recently treated myself to this Nuance from Chris at Bondaero, I had no debate at the power plant as I have had a Wind 110 now (about the same size) for three years and the powertrain is just perfect so I thought I could add to this thread with some pictures as I've front mounted it with a rear support bearing.
As I said I've tested this powertrain over hundreds of flights so I know it works perfectly well, motor is a Turnigy SK3 50 55 320 KV on a 18X10 prop using a Turnigy Sentilon Esc, I find these Esc's better than the Delux which can lose timing and restart the motor with a bit of a "bang", this runs on eight cells. I beleive that this set up is probably even less cost than Andy's, So anyway here is what I have done.
Make up a nose ring, I made mine from some ply laminated with carbon fibre that I had laying around from a previous firewall for IC mounting, Epoxy and fill it in, mine looks like this.
With motor now front mounted, make a template then a final version of the cross brace like this.
Turn it over then fix a ply plate across it like this.
Undo the screws and cut into three, (you'll see why later), then fix the ply plate back on using the same screw holes, if you look again look again at this the first photo it's actually been cut, before putting the ply plate on, obviously drill out the hole for the bearing.
Then, insert bearing, ply plate stops it working off the back.
Cut the motor prop drive down so that it goes through the bearing but not more.
Dry assemble and epoxy in the cross brace
To get the motor out, remover the outer screws that screw into the two outer pieces of the cross brace, that's why it has to be cut into three.
Motor can then mover rearward to get out.
Re assembled and complete
Voila, one removable front mounted motor that has a rear bearing cross braced support.
Thanks to Andy P for starting this thread, very useful thank you, very happy to answer any questions anyone has, this is my fourth SK3 motor, the other three have behaved impecably so I'm expecting this one to behave properly too.
Phil
As I said I've tested this powertrain over hundreds of flights so I know it works perfectly well, motor is a Turnigy SK3 50 55 320 KV on a 18X10 prop using a Turnigy Sentilon Esc, I find these Esc's better than the Delux which can lose timing and restart the motor with a bit of a "bang", this runs on eight cells. I beleive that this set up is probably even less cost than Andy's, So anyway here is what I have done.
Make up a nose ring, I made mine from some ply laminated with carbon fibre that I had laying around from a previous firewall for IC mounting, Epoxy and fill it in, mine looks like this.
With motor now front mounted, make a template then a final version of the cross brace like this.
Turn it over then fix a ply plate across it like this.
Undo the screws and cut into three, (you'll see why later), then fix the ply plate back on using the same screw holes, if you look again look again at this the first photo it's actually been cut, before putting the ply plate on, obviously drill out the hole for the bearing.
Then, insert bearing, ply plate stops it working off the back.
Cut the motor prop drive down so that it goes through the bearing but not more.
Dry assemble and epoxy in the cross brace
To get the motor out, remover the outer screws that screw into the two outer pieces of the cross brace, that's why it has to be cut into three.
Motor can then mover rearward to get out.
Re assembled and complete
Voila, one removable front mounted motor that has a rear bearing cross braced support.
Thanks to Andy P for starting this thread, very useful thank you, very happy to answer any questions anyone has, this is my fourth SK3 motor, the other three have behaved impecably so I'm expecting this one to behave properly too.
Phil
#86
Banned
After twenty or so flights thought an update to the above might be useful to write (hopefully to someone anyway). As the plane was designed with a YS110 in mind, much heavier than the above out runner I figured that a pull pull mid mounted rudder servo might help not to have the batteries too far forward, I mounted it on a plate as below and used the original exit hole for the rudder control rod with an equal one the other side to exit the wires.
As there are no instructions for this kit I took a guess at the c of g being at the back of the wing tube, then I moved the batteries back, and back, and back, eventually had to build a new battery support as the original went from the U/C mount forward, it now goes from the U/C mount back to plate behind the wing joiner, I don't know the actual c of g position but I can tell you that the batteries are 4X2 cell 4,000 mah Turnigy blue packs (steering well clear of nano techs now) weighing 995 grams (30C packs) and their end position (which is a standard index finger's width from the wing tube) and their position looks like this.
Complete interior.
AUW ready to fly as above but with YEP ESC not Sentilon is 3,793 grams, very similar in flight to my Integral, rolls perfect, knife edge perfect and very smooth, plenty of power from the above combination which is working well, I love this airframe and very pleased to have bought it, I particularly like the construction of the fuselage which is a GRP over a thin balsa skin, this gives a texture not unlike ABS i.e. flexible not brittle (like the Integral) which is why it's being flown in the winter (with 3" rubber wheels), the U/C plate is well reinforced and with the batteries mounted on top of it the fuselage isn't taking much stress.
Not only that but it looks drop dead gorgeous!
Phil
As there are no instructions for this kit I took a guess at the c of g being at the back of the wing tube, then I moved the batteries back, and back, and back, eventually had to build a new battery support as the original went from the U/C mount forward, it now goes from the U/C mount back to plate behind the wing joiner, I don't know the actual c of g position but I can tell you that the batteries are 4X2 cell 4,000 mah Turnigy blue packs (steering well clear of nano techs now) weighing 995 grams (30C packs) and their end position (which is a standard index finger's width from the wing tube) and their position looks like this.
Complete interior.
AUW ready to fly as above but with YEP ESC not Sentilon is 3,793 grams, very similar in flight to my Integral, rolls perfect, knife edge perfect and very smooth, plenty of power from the above combination which is working well, I love this airframe and very pleased to have bought it, I particularly like the construction of the fuselage which is a GRP over a thin balsa skin, this gives a texture not unlike ABS i.e. flexible not brittle (like the Integral) which is why it's being flown in the winter (with 3" rubber wheels), the U/C plate is well reinforced and with the batteries mounted on top of it the fuselage isn't taking much stress.
Not only that but it looks drop dead gorgeous!
Phil