Mark Dennis

My Feedback: (4)

I will be starting to build one of our new electric Sting-Rays and will be doing a build/flying thread on it here on RCU and elseware, so lets get started.

SPECIFICATIONS
Wing Span 39"
Wing Area 321 Sq. In.
Length 37.25"
Weight 25 TO 28 Ounces
Motor 200 to 300 Watt
Radio 4 Channels minimum


FEATURING
Quick - Easy assembly right from the box
Strong Light Weight All Wood Construction
Precision Laser cut lightweight ARF
Professionally covered with Light Weight High Quality film
Complete Hardware Package Included
One piece two servo wing
Rear mounted rudder and elevator servos
Large wing area for stable flight
Unique wing design for enhanced precision flight performance
Removable front hatch for easy battery installation
Tough pre-bent aluminum landing gear
Detailed and Precise assembly manual
Full decal sheet


Here are a few pics of what you will be getting along with a few of the finished model.

Mark Dennis

My Feedback: (4)

The first thing I do on any ARF is to remove all of the wrinkles in the covering using a T-pin if necessary to remove stubborn wrinkles from the covering. I do recommend removing the pre-installed canopy, so that you do not get it to hot a warping it while removing other wrinkles, It also allows you to remove the wrinkles under the canopy itself.



Attachments
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Mark Dennis

My Feedback: (4)

After removing all of the wrinkles I started on the wing.

The first step is to hinge both ailerons I used the supplied CA hinges which were already installed but not glued in the wing. Remember to use two pins per hinge to keep the hing centered and from twisting in the slot. I like to use a new bottle of thin Ca when hinging as it seems to wick in better than older CA. Remove the pins and glue your hinges.

Next comes installing the control horn. The holes are predrilled for you so all that is needed is to test fit the horn and then remove, add some thick CA and reinstall.

Repeat both steps on the other side of the wing and your hinging/horn install is complete.

Mark Dennis

My Feedback: (4)

Next is to install your servos.

I like to secure all of my servos using hex head screws as it helps down the road when you need to remove them. The HS-55 servo lead is long enough to be used without an extension.

After that install you arm and the supplied push rod and keeper as shown. Remember to trim of the extra push rod in order to save weight.

Use the same method on the other side and your wing is complete. I recommend that you do tape down the servo leads so they cannot slip back into the wing.

Mark Dennis

My Feedback: (4)

The next step is to install your horizontal stab.

It is very important that this be done with great care and is alighned straight in every angle.

Once your are satisfied with its alighment remove the covering from the gluing area reinstall onto the fuse also inserting the elevator jioner (do not forget to do this as it will be imposible to insert later). Apply thin CA to all side of the stab inseringthat it wicks in and creats a strong bond.

Mark Dennis

My Feedback: (4)

The rudder was hinged using the supplied hinges and thin CA. Notice the supplied tailwheel it is very high quality and offers great ground handling.

PatternPilot

My Feedback: (58)

Mark,

More pics of the girl ! LOL....

Great looking plane looking forward to the flight reports..

Scott Anderson
Team Tanicpacks.com
Team Castle Creations

mikehannah

Hi
Has this review got any further. I am interested to know how is flies as I have one waiting to be put together.

Mike

somiss1

My Feedback: (5)

I have flown my Stingray now to begin to get the feel of the airplane. It is an impressive, pattern airplane! I still have a way to go in getting it trimmed to my liking but all good airplanes require this and this is not a complaint but a compliment as I want to spend the time dialing it in.
I put my thoughts on the construction in Ezone along with some pictures. For some reason, nobody made any comments! I don't own a Brio but after reading some comments about it's ability to snap at odd times, I am real happy that I chose the Stingray.
I'm using a Hacker A30-16M, Castle 35, Hyperion 20C 3S 2100 pack and an 12/6 APCE for unbelievable performance. Alas, the ultra sexy landing gear had to go in order to use the 12/6. I used the anodized gear from 3D Hobbies meant for the Katana which is too wide for the Stingray, but I cut a section out of the middle and screwed it on like the stock gear. The stock wheel pants are used also.
The Stingray cowl has small inlets, which is ok, but no exhaust! I added an exhaust behind the wing opening and have had no overheating problems.
The airplane would not balance with the battery in the battery compartment so I used my Dremel tool to carve out a larger opening in the belly pan and the battery now resides there and can be removed without taking the wing off. The cowl has a real neat attachment/removal method that works great. My cg is @4".
I found that I needed some more right thrust to eleminate the pull on verticals. Two small washers, one top and one bottom cured the problem.
I used 4 Hitec 65's and my Spectrumized 6102 for guidance. Knife edge has a small amount of coupling and I will mix a tiny amount of aileron to get rid of this. For pattern flying, you do not need much throw, I suggest that the low rates in the manual be used. Definitely use less down elevator than up. My airplane is balanced laterally and all surfaces are sealed.
With the 12/6, I don't need to fly over half throttle for anything! Loops are any size that you want. Verticals keep going. Stall turns are positive. Inverted flight requires a breath of down elevator. The Stingray handles wind like it wasn't there. In short, this is a terrific airplane. Yes, it's not perfect. The landing gear area needs to be strengthened and the gear replaced. But the flying ability overcomes any shortcomings. It's a keeper!

SS2P

Hi,

I will get one too!

I will use a eflite 480 outrunner, 2100 15C 3 cell lipo and Phoenix 35 (10 x 7 ) prop

papadontscreech

Hi Mark,

Did you ever get to finish/fly it?

somiss1

My Feedback: (5)

I'm continuing to rack up flights on my Stingray. My fellow club members all comment that it doesn't fly like a small airplane and how rock solid it appears in flight. It certainly flies better than I do. I'm continuing to trim as I go. 10% aileron differential made a world of difference in my 3 rolls(10% less down than up). It is not a squirrelly airplane at all! I like about 20% less down elevator than up to equalize sensitivity and it does the most beautiful reverse outside loops that I've ever done! The Hacker A30 16M is a perfect choice for the airplane and withe 12/6 APCE, vertical is all that you could want. I've recently tried some 3S 20C batteries from MaxAmps that perform just as good as the Hyperions and only cost $47!
The Stingray, to me, is the best flying small pattern ARF out, bar none. I would love to try a 50-55" size version as it would be a killer! Until then, I'll continue to fly this one with a big grin on my face!

ecase

Mark,
Did you ever finish the building instruction posts? It would be nice to read them.
Evan

dreadnaut

My Feedback: (5)

Still working on mine, and the wing (premounted) is not perpendicular to the vertical stab. This cannot be fixed without some major surgery. My choice was to mount the stab parallel to the wing, or perpendicular to the fin, or I could test Aeroworks return policy. I decided to go parallel to the wing.

Another gripe I have is that there is no cooling air outlet and I am having to cut holes in the belly pan under the wing for this.

I thought thet the wire elevator joiner was a bit flexy, so I mounted the elev. servo under the canopy, and used a forked pustrod, and ommited the wire.

Finish is reasonably good, and the warpage in one elevator half was small enough that I could iron it out.

Overall quality is about average for this class of ARF. My next plane will be a scratch built Yak, since I have found it next to impossible to find a perfectly straigt ARF.

ecase

I didn't have the alignment problems you had, but I too had to cut a cooling hole. I cut it about 1 inch behind the wing in the belly. I am waiting for a receiver so I can finish.
Evan

dreadnaut

My Feedback: (5)

O.K. Finished and flown.

Minus's-
Had to cut cooling hole in bely pan. Had to do major surgery to nose to get my E-flite 480 outrunner to fit. The gear were too short to give good clearance for 12x6 prop. Alignment issues stated above.

Pluses-
FLIGHT PERFORMANCE! I really like the way it flies. Tracks real steady for a small plane. The wing loading is a little higher than other planes in this class, and that is probably an asset. The airfoiled tail surfaces didn't hurt either.

I am not using the included spinner. It is realy a gas model spinner, and I wanted to leave the front of the motor open to the air flow. I'll try an 11x8 for the next flight.

E-flite 480
E-flite 40Aesc
TP 2100 3 cell

ecase

Please post your opinions regarding the props. My power setup is identical to yours. Since the weather has gone bad again, I have been in no real hurry. I am still waiting for the AR6000 receiver. If the weather breaks, I may have to go with something else.

dreadnaut

My Feedback: (5)

I am using a Hitec Electron6, and HS55's from my LHS. That power setup, with the 12x6 was previouly in an E-flite Mini-Funtana. The airframe was very lightly built, and I was using a 1350mA pack. The vertical was obscene. The Stingray, understandably, does not have the same vertical oomph, but tracks rock solid. I may try to find some longer LG struts.

ecase

My Sting-Ray has become my favorite plane. It flies like a dream.

airega1

My Feedback: (204)

Hi mark, I just purchased a stingray and I have a motor that is equivelent to an AXI 2820/12, will this motor fit and will it be just to much motor for this airframe

ARTP47

Maiden my Stingray last night nice plane. This is the first small elec. that truly flies big. Did both IMAC sportsman and pattern basic sequences with it nice. Now if Areoworks would super size it up to 120/160 size.