Outrunner Mounting
#1
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There's been some discussions in several threads recently about outrunner mounting. I'd like to see some thoughts, pics, and details posted in one location. Can folks share their methods and experiences for how to mount Outrunners? Methods and pros/cons for nose mount, firewall mount, rear support, bracing, structural requirements etc. It would really help us novices.
Steve.
Steve.
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From: Agawam,
MA
This really was not as much work as it may appear…
Pictures are pretty self explanatory. Mount worked great and even survived a nose first crash (shot down due to frequency conflict.)
Original metal mount - 7oz, homemade CF mount - 2oz.
Pictures are pretty self explanatory. Mount worked great and even survived a nose first crash (shot down due to frequency conflict.)
Original metal mount - 7oz, homemade CF mount - 2oz.
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From: Agawam,
MA
I did, yes. The cheeks were opened up and baffled in such a way that it feed air to the front of the motor (and through the four holes which were opened up a little more after the picture.) The top and bottom of the nose section was sealed with foam so the only place the air could go was through the motor (except for the spinner gap.)
A large baffle also pulled air from the chin cowl and directed it right onto the can.
Here's the replacement plane. Note the blast tubes coming from the cheeks. I haven't flown this setup in hot weather yet (over 80F), but generally it runs about 10 to 15F above ambient in the cooler weather.
A large baffle also pulled air from the chin cowl and directed it right onto the can.
Here's the replacement plane. Note the blast tubes coming from the cheeks. I haven't flown this setup in hot weather yet (over 80F), but generally it runs about 10 to 15F above ambient in the cooler weather.
#7

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Cool guys, that is a tricked out mount
I have always thought about doing something like that but I don't have the skill to make it happen.
Have you expended much effort trying to determine approximately how much gain in cooling the motor you get? ie: can temperature with the shroud vs. a conventional open air mounting arrangement?
Would love to see more detailed pics of how the shroud is attached to the fuse with the motor removed.
I have always thought about doing something like that but I don't have the skill to make it happen.Have you expended much effort trying to determine approximately how much gain in cooling the motor you get? ie: can temperature with the shroud vs. a conventional open air mounting arrangement?
Would love to see more detailed pics of how the shroud is attached to the fuse with the motor removed.
#8

Chad, as to the fixing in simple terms its glued in using a polyurethane, the stuff they bond windshields in with. There is a little more to it than that.
The next time I do one I will take pic's as I go. A pic,, with the motor out shows little as its black to black to black.
What you see there is a composite cup, carbon kevlar glass carbon. 24g. There are 3 air exits the size of the one in view. Inside dia,, is 65mm , ie 3mm clearance all round.
It stops short of the nose ring by ~2mm. The space is then taken up by rubber and the Pu adhesive, giving a slight soft mount effect, with bonding all round the front of the cup.
The fan blade is from a PC power supply, ~1Watt. To fit it in the spinner we reduced the blades by ~40% and its housed in a space with everything spinning together so now
approx 0.5W. (lay-man science). The front is cut off the spinner ,(off left side of pic,,) leaving a 15mm hole for air to enter.
With ambient temp of 20 to 24 C the motor temp is 28 to 35 C. Also this allows us to dedicate the chin intake air to the esc, which I do with a moulded carbon shroud ~8g.
The esc at most is 2 to 3 C above ambient and on cool days no increase at all. Have not worked out the efficiency benefit, but know with electrics cool is cool, cool is good.
Regards
Brian
The next time I do one I will take pic's as I go. A pic,, with the motor out shows little as its black to black to black.
What you see there is a composite cup, carbon kevlar glass carbon. 24g. There are 3 air exits the size of the one in view. Inside dia,, is 65mm , ie 3mm clearance all round.
It stops short of the nose ring by ~2mm. The space is then taken up by rubber and the Pu adhesive, giving a slight soft mount effect, with bonding all round the front of the cup.
The fan blade is from a PC power supply, ~1Watt. To fit it in the spinner we reduced the blades by ~40% and its housed in a space with everything spinning together so now
approx 0.5W. (lay-man science). The front is cut off the spinner ,(off left side of pic,,) leaving a 15mm hole for air to enter.
With ambient temp of 20 to 24 C the motor temp is 28 to 35 C. Also this allows us to dedicate the chin intake air to the esc, which I do with a moulded carbon shroud ~8g.
The esc at most is 2 to 3 C above ambient and on cool days no increase at all. Have not worked out the efficiency benefit, but know with electrics cool is cool, cool is good.
Regards
Brian
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From: Cork, IRELAND
Here's another one of Brian's mounts in my Oxai Infinity, notice that there is a rear support added. the back of the cup is "floating" in the same polyeurthane as the front. I have about 150 flights to date on it.
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