Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Hi everyone,
My Spark (GM schem) will arrive in a week or two and I'm trying to get ready in terms of control surfaces hardware.
Could anyone that already build one of these beautiful birds be kind enough to share what set of hardware he used:
- pushrods
- control horns
- clevises
- etc.
BTW my electric setup is: Pletty 30 Evo, YGE controller and a few Rhino 4900 packs
Thanks in advance
Yoav
My Spark (GM schem) will arrive in a week or two and I'm trying to get ready in terms of control surfaces hardware.
Could anyone that already build one of these beautiful birds be kind enough to share what set of hardware he used:
- pushrods
- control horns
- clevises
- etc.
BTW my electric setup is: Pletty 30 Evo, YGE controller and a few Rhino 4900 packs
Thanks in advance
Yoav
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Hi Yoav....
I use nomal clevis. You think always to keep high weight...it´s no neccesary special horns and expensive arms.....
2.56 dubro swivel ball links and no more.
Any picture here for you...and good luck !!!!!..
cheers.
I use nomal clevis. You think always to keep high weight...it´s no neccesary special horns and expensive arms.....
2.56 dubro swivel ball links and no more.
Any picture here for you...and good luck !!!!!..
cheers.
#129
RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
ORIGINAL: lyka
Hi Yoav....
I use nomal clevis. You think always to keep high weight...it´s no neccesary special horns and expensive arms.....
2.56 dubro swivel ball links and no more.
Any picture here for you...and good luck !!!!!..
cheers.
Hi Yoav....
I use nomal clevis. You think always to keep high weight...it´s no neccesary special horns and expensive arms.....
2.56 dubro swivel ball links and no more.
Any picture here for you...and good luck !!!!!..
cheers.
Woodie
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
FAI, P.11 sequence......
Excellent conditions, calm day, Temp 25 ºC.
Starting practice in this new table.
Technically it is very pretty.
Intense and interesting.
For to share with everyone.
Greetings.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbeG51e8Vlg[/youtube]
Excellent conditions, calm day, Temp 25 ºC.
Starting practice in this new table.
Technically it is very pretty.
Intense and interesting.
For to share with everyone.
Greetings.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbeG51e8Vlg[/youtube]
#132
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Mike, the camera microphone is very sensitive, truly was a calm day, a gentle breeze.
Usually the wind that prevails in our field is quite aggressive.
It was a day to enjoy. To train this new sequence has their suffering.
cheers.
Usually the wind that prevails in our field is quite aggressive.
It was a day to enjoy. To train this new sequence has their suffering.
cheers.
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Looking for some rudder deflection data for my Spark.
I'm currently putting together my Spark Dynamic (2009 version) and would like to know the amount of rudder deflection (deg) that is required for this model.
The point is that I don't want to have the rudder move more than required for the most demanding maneuver as this will have some affect of the rudder position on the fin. (too much backward position)
Thanks in advance.
Yoav
I'm currently putting together my Spark Dynamic (2009 version) and would like to know the amount of rudder deflection (deg) that is required for this model.
The point is that I don't want to have the rudder move more than required for the most demanding maneuver as this will have some affect of the rudder position on the fin. (too much backward position)
Thanks in advance.
Yoav
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Correct your question ... maximum deflection 40 degrees .
This value is well established.
Dual Rate 12 degrees, normal flight.
cheers.
This value is well established.
Dual Rate 12 degrees, normal flight.
cheers.
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Spark builders, help please.
Unfortunately, building instructions by Krill is very limited so a little help here would be appreciated.
The wing comes with both wing incidence regulator and 2 plastic screws to fix the wing in a certain position. The questions are:
- do I need both?
- If I use only screws, do I get 0 zero wing incidence as recomended by the manufacturer?
- Did any of you Spark owners used anthing else but zero incident
Thanks,
Yoav
Unfortunately, building instructions by Krill is very limited so a little help here would be appreciated.
The wing comes with both wing incidence regulator and 2 plastic screws to fix the wing in a certain position. The questions are:
- do I need both?
- If I use only screws, do I get 0 zero wing incidence as recomended by the manufacturer?
- Did any of you Spark owners used anthing else but zero incident
Thanks,
Yoav
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Hi Yoav, Reeves here in Alaska. On my Spark I only used the two nylon bolts. Incidence seems perfect. It is a beautiful flying plane. You will want another for sure. Temperature here was 8 degrees today. Best regards, Reeves.
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Hi Reeves, thanks for your comment.
Brrrr.. sounds quite cold up there in Alaska. Here in Israel It's 22C during the day and about 15 in the night. Rain is what we mostly want and we hope this winter will finnaly bring much of it.
All the best,
Yoav
Brrrr.. sounds quite cold up there in Alaska. Here in Israel It's 22C during the day and about 15 in the night. Rain is what we mostly want and we hope this winter will finnaly bring much of it.
All the best,
Yoav
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Hi guys first of all happy holidays and good luck in 2010 season. I would like to continue this thread with my Spark building. I pick up Spark Dynamic kit in EXFC directly from Mr. Ivo. Now i will start building it slowly to be able to fly in spring and prepare for new season. I pick up original AZ scheme only blue instead of red, i like look of it, + wide blue line will be clearly visible in flight. From first look at kit i can say this is impressive looking plane, quality is very good. One quire neat thing i notice, both wings are exactly same weight, left is 407.6g and right one is 407,6g as well!
So far thanks for Ales Zapletal and Andres Girabel for building tips and some pictures. Here are few pictures of mine, soon will be more.
So far thanks for Ales Zapletal and Andres Girabel for building tips and some pictures. Here are few pictures of mine, soon will be more.
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Yes tommy its expencive but real good, remember what Andrew flew in Nats In other hand when we talk about price look to OXAY birds. Ok here few small things i did so far;
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Wow ! nice color scheme..
Do you have any pictures of the bottom ?
What setup you going to use ?
I think the Spark is right priced between the ZN Lineand Oxai planes.
The quality of the kit is pretty good and they have amazing color schemes.
Everything fits right and tight.
At the first flight I wrecked my wheelpants they are very thin and not strong enough for our flying field (it's a little bumpy).
I replaced them for cf wheelpants they are much stronger.
I got mine by Aerobertics at Belgium.
After 40 flight i'm still very happy with the plane and i'm almost ready with setting it up right.
Although it does not need a t canalizer i have made one to see what difference it makes especially for the figure M of the P11 sequence.
Hopefully the weather soon gets better here in the Netherlands so i can further practice the P11 program..
Hope you gonna enjoy building and flying the plane 3Don :-)
Regards,
Roy Oostema
Do you have any pictures of the bottom ?
What setup you going to use ?
I think the Spark is right priced between the ZN Lineand Oxai planes.
The quality of the kit is pretty good and they have amazing color schemes.
Everything fits right and tight.
At the first flight I wrecked my wheelpants they are very thin and not strong enough for our flying field (it's a little bumpy).
I replaced them for cf wheelpants they are much stronger.
I got mine by Aerobertics at Belgium.
After 40 flight i'm still very happy with the plane and i'm almost ready with setting it up right.
Although it does not need a t canalizer i have made one to see what difference it makes especially for the figure M of the P11 sequence.
Hopefully the weather soon gets better here in the Netherlands so i can further practice the P11 program..
Hope you gonna enjoy building and flying the plane 3Don :-)
Regards,
Roy Oostema
#146
RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
G'day 3Don,
What motor are you planning to use?
Reason I ask is that your cooling holes near the nose may be an issue if using a front mounted outrunner. Should be fine for a hacker or Neu inrunner though. The Plettenburg would also be fine.
Cheers
Jason.
What motor are you planning to use?
Reason I ask is that your cooling holes near the nose may be an issue if using a front mounted outrunner. Should be fine for a hacker or Neu inrunner though. The Plettenburg would also be fine.
Cheers
Jason.
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Roy here is my setup:
Motor; AXI 5325/F3A
Prop; AXI 20x13 ungliuksas
Batt 10s 4350mah EONX Flight Power
Servos JR
2x DS9411sa Aileron
DS8411sa Rud
DS8417 Elevator
ESC; Castle Creations HV85a.
RX; Duplex 8ch
RX power suply by PowerBox sensor with two 450 mah packs, i always like double security.
For bottim wings and stab are white with big blue lines, nothing to fancy, but it will be clearly vissible in sky. Im quite curious to hear your result on maneuver M, i talk with Benoit Dierickx couple days ago and he told he like plane with T canard more, i gues i will try it as well, all other planes i tried it start flying slightly better.
Hello Jason, thanks for warnning, i decide not to cut second holles that are painted with black marker, because i dont want to make plkane nose weaker + as you say it will not give right result for cooling outrunner. To make sure my AXI motor is not to hot, i will make more holes fro bottom fuselage, with depron tunnel so air will go directly to motor, i also thinking about ussing cooler blades on back of motor, but if this will not help as well i think cutting top of spinner (ore removing it at all,) will solve heat problem.
Motor; AXI 5325/F3A
Prop; AXI 20x13 ungliuksas
Batt 10s 4350mah EONX Flight Power
Servos JR
2x DS9411sa Aileron
DS8411sa Rud
DS8417 Elevator
ESC; Castle Creations HV85a.
RX; Duplex 8ch
RX power suply by PowerBox sensor with two 450 mah packs, i always like double security.
For bottim wings and stab are white with big blue lines, nothing to fancy, but it will be clearly vissible in sky. Im quite curious to hear your result on maneuver M, i talk with Benoit Dierickx couple days ago and he told he like plane with T canard more, i gues i will try it as well, all other planes i tried it start flying slightly better.
Hello Jason, thanks for warnning, i decide not to cut second holles that are painted with black marker, because i dont want to make plkane nose weaker + as you say it will not give right result for cooling outrunner. To make sure my AXI motor is not to hot, i will make more holes fro bottom fuselage, with depron tunnel so air will go directly to motor, i also thinking about ussing cooler blades on back of motor, but if this will not help as well i think cutting top of spinner (ore removing it at all,) will solve heat problem.
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
ORIGINAL: 3Don
Roy here is my setup:
Motor; AXI 5325/F3A
Prop; AXI 20x13 ungliuksas
Batt 10s 4350mah EONX Flight Power
Servos JR
2x DS9411sa Aileron
DS8411sa Rud
DS8417 Elevator
ESC; Castle Creations HV85a.
RX; Duplex 8ch
RX power suply by PowerBox sensor with two 450 mah packs, i always like double security.
For bottim wings and stab are white with big blue lines, nothing to fancy, but it will be clearly vissible in sky. Im quite curious to hear your result on maneuver M, i talk with Benoit Dierickx couple days ago and he told he like plane with T canard more, i gues i will try it as well, all other planes i tried it start flying slightly better.
Hello Jason, thanks for warnning, i decide not to cut second holles that are painted with black marker, because i dont want to make plkane nose weaker + as you say it will not give right result for cooling outrunner. To make sure my AXI motor is not to hot, i will make more holes fro bottom fuselage, with depron tunnel so air will go directly to motor, i also thinking about ussing cooler blades on back of motor, but if this will not help as well i think cutting top of spinner (ore removing it at all,) will solve heat problem.
Roy here is my setup:
Motor; AXI 5325/F3A
Prop; AXI 20x13 ungliuksas
Batt 10s 4350mah EONX Flight Power
Servos JR
2x DS9411sa Aileron
DS8411sa Rud
DS8417 Elevator
ESC; Castle Creations HV85a.
RX; Duplex 8ch
RX power suply by PowerBox sensor with two 450 mah packs, i always like double security.
For bottim wings and stab are white with big blue lines, nothing to fancy, but it will be clearly vissible in sky. Im quite curious to hear your result on maneuver M, i talk with Benoit Dierickx couple days ago and he told he like plane with T canard more, i gues i will try it as well, all other planes i tried it start flying slightly better.
Hello Jason, thanks for warnning, i decide not to cut second holles that are painted with black marker, because i dont want to make plkane nose weaker + as you say it will not give right result for cooling outrunner. To make sure my AXI motor is not to hot, i will make more holes fro bottom fuselage, with depron tunnel so air will go directly to motor, i also thinking about ussing cooler blades on back of motor, but if this will not help as well i think cutting top of spinner (ore removing it at all,) will solve heat problem.
That is a very nice setup 3Don !
Can you post the total flying weight of the model when its ready ?
My T canalizer is almost ready, only paint and mounting it to the fuselage.
I will let you know my results.
If i remembered well, the Axi runs quite cooler than my Hacker C50.
I don't think you are getting problems with cooling the motor.
I have 6 cooling holes on the bottom of the nose and 2 holes on the top nose.
The depron tunnel will also help..
Here a picture of my Spark and a picture of our new project..
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RE: Spark F3A, from Krill Models - SPAIN TEAM
Hi
If any of the Spark builders who used the Plettenberg motor can post some pictures of the motor assembly it would be greatly appreciated.
Any tip on the issue is also very welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Yoav
If any of the Spark builders who used the Plettenberg motor can post some pictures of the motor assembly it would be greatly appreciated.
Any tip on the issue is also very welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Yoav