Hacker A60-24S mount recommendation
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From: Fremont, CA
Can anyone suggest the mounting method for the A60-xxS motor? Hacker recommend using their cage mount, but since the weight is almost 7 oz, I wounder if there are lighter mounting methods available. I was thinking making my own out of CF-Balsa laminates, but not sure what is the correct size bearing I should use to support the back, if the rear support is needed.
TIA,
Kevin
TIA,
Kevin
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From: Springfield, MA
Kevin
You should support the rear of the shaft. My rear support came loose one time and the motor/airframe shook and shimmied until I throttled back. I had reinforced the nose with 3 layers of carbon cloth for a little added insurance. This was on a Prestige with a A60-20S. The rear of the shaft takes a 10mm ID bearing. On the newer motors the shaft is a little oversize so you might have to sand/file the shaft down a little.
The rear shaft only projects from the rear of the motor about 1/16" so you have to mount the bearing as close to the motor as you can in order for the shaft to ingage the bearing.
Here are some pictures of the set up.
You should support the rear of the shaft. My rear support came loose one time and the motor/airframe shook and shimmied until I throttled back. I had reinforced the nose with 3 layers of carbon cloth for a little added insurance. This was on a Prestige with a A60-20S. The rear of the shaft takes a 10mm ID bearing. On the newer motors the shaft is a little oversize so you might have to sand/file the shaft down a little.
The rear shaft only projects from the rear of the motor about 1/16" so you have to mount the bearing as close to the motor as you can in order for the shaft to ingage the bearing.
Here are some pictures of the set up.
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From: Quartz Hill,
CA
I use my wide gold colored electric soft mount (http://tinyurl.com/pkufz), the standard size purple plate is shown in the photo but the approach is the same. The A60-24S bolts directly up to it with no modification of any kind needed, it only weighs ~1.5 oz and it is really easy to install.
You absolutely do need to support the back of the electric motors, it doesn't matter whether it's an inrunner or an outrunner, rigid mounted or soft mounted, it isn't a pretty sight when the nose structure starts to let go (don't ask me how I know this). And you won't likely have time to cut the throttle and figure what's going wrong, it happens way too quickly to react to it.
For a rear support bracket I use a piece of laminated G10 fiberglass board material cut to ~3/4" wide that attaches to two support tabs mounted on each side of the interior nose. The cross piece has two slots in it that run span-wise, and the internal supports each have a slot that runs vertically. I use a 6-32 x 1/2" socket head cap screw to tie it all together, with a 6-32 blind nut mounted in a small "donut" of 1/4" thick glass/balsa/glass laminate to act as a combination nut/washer for the screw. The slots allow for easy thrust adjustments simply by loosening the screw and adjusting the crosspiece to mate up to the motor, then tightening the screws back down. It's very similar to the rear support bracket I offer for the C50's (http://tinyurl.com/ntucm), except with a smaller hole in it sized to fit the rear support bearing. I plan on having an anodized aluminum version of it available after the Nats.
As far as engaging the rear of the motor, I've used both a slightly oversized bushing (12mm ID) centered over the output shaft, and also a 10mm flanged bearing with good results.
You absolutely do need to support the back of the electric motors, it doesn't matter whether it's an inrunner or an outrunner, rigid mounted or soft mounted, it isn't a pretty sight when the nose structure starts to let go (don't ask me how I know this). And you won't likely have time to cut the throttle and figure what's going wrong, it happens way too quickly to react to it.
For a rear support bracket I use a piece of laminated G10 fiberglass board material cut to ~3/4" wide that attaches to two support tabs mounted on each side of the interior nose. The cross piece has two slots in it that run span-wise, and the internal supports each have a slot that runs vertically. I use a 6-32 x 1/2" socket head cap screw to tie it all together, with a 6-32 blind nut mounted in a small "donut" of 1/4" thick glass/balsa/glass laminate to act as a combination nut/washer for the screw. The slots allow for easy thrust adjustments simply by loosening the screw and adjusting the crosspiece to mate up to the motor, then tightening the screws back down. It's very similar to the rear support bracket I offer for the C50's (http://tinyurl.com/ntucm), except with a smaller hole in it sized to fit the rear support bearing. I plan on having an anodized aluminum version of it available after the Nats.
As far as engaging the rear of the motor, I've used both a slightly oversized bushing (12mm ID) centered over the output shaft, and also a 10mm flanged bearing with good results.
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From: Fremont, CA
Thank you Wingster and Jerry,
I am going to take your suggestion and put together the back support, and yes, I have seen some pictures of the nose section got "exploded" due to some things went wrong, and hope to avoid that by supporting the rear section of the motor.
Meanwhile, based on the result Jerry has with his Abbra, I am going to try out the A60-24S in my new project as well, since my plane will be very close to 11 pounds if not at 11, and I think the 22S might not be able to swing larger props like 24S can. I should know in a couple weeks.
Kevin
I am going to take your suggestion and put together the back support, and yes, I have seen some pictures of the nose section got "exploded" due to some things went wrong, and hope to avoid that by supporting the rear section of the motor.
Meanwhile, based on the result Jerry has with his Abbra, I am going to try out the A60-24S in my new project as well, since my plane will be very close to 11 pounds if not at 11, and I think the 22S might not be able to swing larger props like 24S can. I should know in a couple weeks.
Kevin



