hezik

I went the same route, got the same issue, the stab adjusters need 'adjusting' to get the stab at or near 0% in regards to the original wing setting.

Because it was still pulling to canopy on a straight downline, I changed the wing incidence. Originally the wing is not set to 0 degrees in respect to the 'horizontal fuse line' if you know what I mean. I lowered the incidence on the main wing, so brought the LE down, the TE up. Just a tad, possibly something like 1 degree.

Still not there yet, but it doesn't pull to canopy anymore. I moved around with the CG to get knife-edge as straight as possible, and then needed a small left rudder -> up elevator mix, 1%. It now goes up and down straight, and flies knife edge straight.

Gonna try the tail fences in the near future. Not sure about the wingfences, I do think they would work on this plane, but to me they're not pratical, I'm afraid sooner or later I'll incidentally rip them off during transport.

I have experimented with the down thrust, both more or less downthrust, but it made the plane change attitude on change of loads (full throttle/idle. and so on). I would say, the combo I'm flying would do best with the downthrust as already set in the fuse (spinner backplate flush to fuse). Same goes for the side-thrust.

Smaragd1

Does anyone have a canopy spare prefferably that is blue/green?

bem

My Feedback: (1)

Hi,

I suppose You have checked in UK with http://www.area51-distribution.com/s...art-spares/f3a
At least they seem to have the clear canopy in stock at 25% off.

/Bo

Planeclaims

My Feedback: (2)

Does someone know if all of the Wind S Pro ARFs are manufactured at the same place? Do all the fuselages, regardless of the color scheme, come from the same mold?

Fortunately, the stab adjuster pin in my red & white scheme airframe did not require this modification.

FYI: Although it has not been officially weighed, I believe it's close to 10 1/2 lbs. My stabs were adjusted to +0.25 with wing @ +0.5. Motor installed with additional 3.0 degrees right and down thrust. CG originally set @ 197 mm. Moving battery pack forward and aft while trimming for straight and level flight. Logged 15 flights to date, most of which took place in windy conditions. Programmed 2.0 degrees down elevator @ idle for straight vertical down line. Slight pitch to canopy during full power vertical upline. Mixed +3.0 degrees up elevator and +2.0 degrees right aileron, slaved to left rudder for left rudder knife edge. Right rudder knife edge requires no mix.

Fury SA 60-67 motor; Dualsky 90A ESC; APC 21 X 13W prop; 2 ea TP 5,000 mah 25C in series; Pull/Pull rudder;

This is my first experience with an electric 2M pattern aircraft. Prior to the Wind S Pro, it's been 2 YS 140L Hydeouts.

Steve

hezik

I'd say your setup is trying to tell you it's wrong. It's pulling on uplines, downlines and knife edge

3 deg extra down and right thrust? why?!?!

All planes come from the same factory and same mold. I think you didn't have the 'pin issues' because your wing/stab are setup wrong.

But before continuing.. because Sebart gives no instructions or guidelines whatsover on how to set the stab, anyone's guess goes, so there is no 'real right or wrong'

First off, start by removing the extra down and side thrust you had. Mount the engine so that the spinner backplate is flush with the front of the fuse.

Then use your wing to set your measuring device to 0 degrees. So move the fuse/wing until your measuring device measures 0 degrees on the main wing.

Once you got this, measure your stab. As a starting point you could set it to 0.5 degrees ( I always mixup positive or negative, but the Leading edge of the stab should be LOWER than the trailing edge).

If you fly it that way, you'll see that it doesn't pull to canopy on a straight upline anymore.

I think your wing/stab setup is strange and this is causing the pull to canopy.. and you're trying to compensate that by adding extra downthrust. Which, in my opinion, is not the correct way.

Note that the 0/0.5 starting point is what a lot of people used in this thread. I don't think it's the ultimate correct setting.

If you ask me, the best setup would be to have the standard down and sidethrust and then set the wing and stab to 0 degrees in respect to the 0 degree line of the fuse.

Note that setting the stab to 0 in respect to the wing, is NOT the same.

Planeclaims

My Feedback: (2)

Hezik,

Thanks for your advice. I'm a newbie on pattern aircraft without wing adjusters. After reading your post, I started thinking about my set up, went out and purchased a digital incidence meter from our LHS to reset stab incidence to zero with aircraft leveled with wings at zero. I noted the settings were all screwed up.

Left wing was 0.0 and right wing was +0.2. After confirming right wing not twisted and double checking the numbers, decided to modify the right wing pin holes to achieve 0.0. With aircraft level and both wings at 0.0, checked stabs and discovered left stab was +0.4 and right stab +0.3! Re-adjusted both stabs to 0.0.

Can't (easily) remove extra down and right thrust settings because they were set when motor plate was glued inside the airframe.

With wings and stabs now at 0.0 and radio trim settings nuetral, it's back to the field for more flight testing.

Steve

cmoulder

If both wings and stabs are absolutely, truly at 0-0 relative to each other, you may want to put in some up trim before your test flight!

pattratt

My Feedback: (1)

I agree, 0-0 not a good wing stab setup for Wind S Pro for me!
I use .5+ for wing and set stab at what ever it takes to get trim out of stab elevators. This process usually ends up with around .1+
Dick

hezik

To have them both positive, is strange. +0.5 +0.1 would be the same as +0.4 +0.0.. with -0.1 downthrust in respect to what you have now.

It all depends on your personal preferences and flying style. If you want to fly 'zero gravity' probably the 0-0 setting is the best, but as stated, it's highly personal and the only way to find out your preference, is by trying and flying.

Zero gravity = to trim your airplane in such a way that it has the same behaviour in level flight as in inverted, so in both cases, without any steering input, it'll start descending slowly.

Setting it to somewhere around +0.4 +0.0 would be a 'non-zero-gravity' setup, which probably makes a 'downline mixer' (a mix between throttle idle and down elevator) needed. In other words; on a straight downline it'll probably pull to canopy then.

pattratt

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, I fly with a very minor mix for down line and with the Contra Drive I use a .5 to .6 down thrust on the contra which takes the going to canopy out of the up lines. I am also using a 28% Mac for c/g which effects everything.
Dick

Brenner

I fly with the same setup with my Contra as well.

25%-28% MAC for the CG
0.5 degrees downthrust for the motor
Zero degrees right thrust for the motor (Only valid for Contra Rotating Drives ..)
0.5 degrees positive wing incidence
Stab adjusted to remove elevator trim
Slight down elevator mix with low throttle
30% ESC braking

It flies great! The uplines are on rails, and the downlines are plumb line straight.

Brenner ...

hezik

So you both have what I describe, it pulls to canopy on straight downlines, hence the low throttle -> elevator mix.

As stated, there's a lot of personal preference in there. If you both were to lower the incidence on the main wing, you could get rid of the downline mixer, probably. I really don't like downline mixers. Not saying they're wrong, or you guys are doing it wrong, on the contrary, it's a personal matter. Although in P13 this is probably less of an issue, for instance in the 45 degree downline with 4pts roll in P11, the downline mixer works against you, also depending on your flying style. With a non-contra rotating prop setup you'll want to fly such a figure at idle to at least half way through, meaning you'd be knife-edge at idle twice, getting pulled of your flying line by the downline mixer. This would only apply to idle knife-edge situations, which are rare.

Anyways, if you read correctly, +0.5 / 0 is the advice I was giving him to start with

CG at 25-28% of mac, which calculator did you use to get the MAC? Am I correct this would be slightly more forward than the original Sebart recommendation? (again, not saying it's wrong, not at all)

mdjohnson

That is exactly where my stabs wound up. It seems this airframe is very sensitive to incidence changes. I have my stabs at +.1* with the motor thrust set to be flush (1/16") with the nose. I do have a little low throttle to down elevator mix to straighten out the downlines and zero mix for knife edge. I'm not sure where my CG is at the moment as I have moved the battery around quite a bit to get to the "sweet" spot but the back of the NanoTech battery is 1/2" forward of the landing gear box. I tried it quite a bit forward and quite a bit aft (I have an adjustable tray) and I find the airplane is now flying on rails. Took a lot of trim flights though. To be honest I was quite disappointed with the first flight as my Wind 110 at the time flew better but now with my current setup, the Pro flies better by far. I am very happy with it.

Cheers

MJ

flyingtomg

My Feedback: (10)

For those of you flying with the wing fences, is it possible to not install them permanently? Basically, is there a way I can put mine on and then take them off again if I don't like them?

Thanks,
flyingtomg

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

Yes.. Put them on with canopy glue or RTV.

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Exactly what Doug said is what I did with mine. Even better if you have access to pieces of vinyl. Put it down first and then attach the fences to it. Very easy to remove. I didn't like them on mine. I left the tail fences, but not the wing ones.

Arch

flyingtomg

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks for the replies guys.

flyingtomg

doogiehl

Hi Guys.

I am putting together the Full Composite version of the Wind s Pro

Posted this on the full composite thread but I guess thats been closed for some time.

I havent found much more on the "full composite Wind s pro". I guess there arent as many around.

I plan to put the Hacker Q80 11s with Jeti Opto Spin 99 with10s set up.

With the thicker new airfoil and thicker stab I am wondering wether there is much difference in the older vs full composite in terms of flight characteristics. If so is the new all composite version designed to fly slower and if so what size props are being used. I have read of 21x13 , 21x14 used 20.5x14. It appears from post that the old version few better when flown faster. With all of the aerodynamic add ons is the aim to get better stability at lower speeds when flying in lighter wind conditions. I suppose Sebastian is the only one that knows!

What props are you guys using on the Q80 11s for the Full Composite version?
Thanks in advance.

Hanns

NeilRivera

Any one else out there with updates on their Wind S Pro ? I have owned mine for about a year and a half now and also
own the 50 version and like them both a lot !

Brenner

I'm using mine with a Contra Drive and a set of Dave Snow Proteus wings. (The Proteus is Andrew Jesky's new plane..)

I have 1 degree of downthrust relative to a straight edge placed across the wing pins, and zero degrees of right thrust. I also have a set 5800mah packs placed directly over the landing gear.

It flies great!

Brenner ...

Silver Bullet

Does anyone have a template for mounting a Neu motor on a Hyde mount for the Wind S Pro? If so, I'd really appreciate a copy.
Thanks,
Bob
email = [email protected]

jetmech43

My Feedback: (9)

I noticed anheadral or straight stab is that an option?

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

AFAIK, both the version with the builtup wings and the total composite version have anhedral on the horizontal stab. Not sure what the exact angles are but if you set mine with the builtup wings next to a friends all composite version, the all composite version appears to have double the amount of anhedral.

jmcmike

My Feedback: (45)

Guys, Im looking at one of these wind pro white version NIB for a fair price. Are these still a decent planes by todays standards or should I bite the bullet and get the latest and greatest thing out there. I dont fly contest but I do enjoy precision flight. Been flying a CA Models Genesis for the last couple of years. Looking for ideas on painting the fuse and doing something with the wing for color, Thank Mike

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Is that the all composite version? These things came in two versions; a composite fuselage and built up wings, horizontal stabs, elevators, or a version that's all composite.

I'm not a pattern pro or expert or whatever you want to call those guys who are really good, but I have a couple of friends who helped me with my Wind S Pro and they ARE really good. I asked one of them the other day when he was flying my Wind if it was still a good airframe and his reply; "This is a REALLY NICE flying model".

Can't help with the paint question as I'm not a model painter, had enough painting on full scale stuff to last me a lifetime and part of the reason I bought my Wind is the color scheme.... lol