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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Renegade .. yeah I should use the progressive mix and not the linear one.
Dron ... your fingers are awesome! :) Seriously ... maybe i need to program them. |
RE: Sebart Wind 110
If you get the CG at the right spot, you pracitally won't need KE mixers..
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Hezik ... I like my planes slightly nose heavy ... hehehee ... is your at level when hands off?
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Servos for the Wind 110. I was looking at getting the Futaba 9650's for the elevators and the BSL 153 for the Ailerons. Now I am reading that the 9650's are a bit
sloppy at center, the 153's are twice as much. Will I be sorry If I purchase the 9650's? I will be fying in Advanced and move on up to Masters with the 110. Thanks |
RE: Sebart Wind 110
I flew the combo you're describing, and it works flawlessly.
Neither servo's are sloppy. The S9650's do have slightly more gear-room than the 153's, but nothing bad, they are very good servo's. The S9650's is about the most used stab-servo on 2m pattern planes all over the world. I suspect that whoever wrote that, got a bad pair or something. Or hasn't really compared to other servo's. In about a year time I got from 'bottom of advanced' to 'sub-top of masters' flying the WindS 110 with that servo-combo, so 'just do it'.. you'll have a blast :) |
RE: Sebart Wind 110
ORIGINAL: rix Servos for the Wind 110. I was looking at getting the Futaba 9650's for the elevators and the BSL 153 for the Ailerons. Now I am reading that the 9650's are a bit sloppy at center, the 153's are twice as much. Will I be sorry If I purchase the 9650's? I will be fying in Advanced and move on up to Masters with the 110. Thanks Arch |
RE: Sebart Wind 110
Thank you for that info on the 9650's. I will go with those on the elevators, a BLS 451 on the rudder, and possibly BLS 153 or S9551's for ailerons. Have not decided on the Ailerons. Are there any real preferences between the 153 & 9551's?
Thanks again... |
RE: Sebart Wind 110
I havent tried the 9551's, but am sure they will be fine servo's as well. I flew with BLS 153's on the ailerons and they get the job done as well. Whichever you choose, I don't think there's a bad choice.
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Thanks again. This forum is worth its weight in gold...
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Guys, have an issue...
Installing my Hacker motor (A50-16L) and I am having trouble. First off, I can not find the mounting hardware as indicated in the Sebart manual, The 4mm low profile head bolts. I have to assume that these should have been supplied in the kit, is that correct? Anyway, I am having issues getting the motor in so any advice would be helpful. Thanks! |
RE: Sebart Wind 110
Those were included in the three kits that I had, but on the last two, they were too short anyways, so I replaced them with my own.
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Are you having issues other than the missing bolts?
ORIGINAL: InboundLZ Guys, have an issue... Installing my Hacker motor (A50-16L) and I am having trouble. First off, I can not find the mounting hardware as indicated in the Sebart manual, The 4mm low profile head bolts. I have to assume that these should have been supplied in the kit, is that correct? Anyway, I am having issues getting the motor in so any advice would be helpful. Thanks! |
RE: Sebart Wind 110
No other issues yet, going together nicely. I have the stabs done and went with JR 3421's in the horizontal stabs. Landing gear is complete and the rudder/tail wheel is also done, I was wanting to mock it up with the prop so I jumped to motor install, that where the trouble began.....
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Did you buy it from F3A Unlimited? If so, I'm sure Chris will take care of you. Or.... just go to your local hardware and pick up some suitable screws.
ORIGINAL: InboundLZ No other issues yet, going together nicely. I have the stabs done and went with JR 3421's in the horizontal stabs. Landing gear is complete and the rudder/tail wheel is also done, I was wanting to mock it up with the prop so I jumped to motor install, that where the trouble began..... |
RE: Sebart Wind 110
Note that you will need screws with a 'sinkable head' (I'm dutch, don't know the english term for it)
http://www.dazhefastener.com/image/s...ne%20Screw.jpg This is because if you use normal bolts/screws, you will get a big gap between fuse and spinner. Also, don't overtighten them, you'll pull them right through the firewall if you do. Lastly, check it after the first 10 flights or so, the might have pulled themselves deeper into the firewall, giving the engine some room to move. |
RE: Sebart Wind 110
I just went to the hardware store and picked up 4 of the scres Hezik shows above. The screws that came with the kit didn't give enough clearance for the prop adapter.
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
So Joe or hezik....how long are the screws then?
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Say about 8mm.. just buy longer ones and cut them to size :)
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Thanks hezik......
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
sorry......double post.......
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Don't remember off the top of my head, but they definitely sell the right size at places like Ace Hardware, without the need to cut.
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Looks like I started with 12mm screws. Not sure if I went to a shorter screw when I changed to the countersinking head:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_79...5/key_/tm.htm# I would probably get a set of 12mm and the next size down, whatever it is. Can't get to my motor right now to see. |
RE: Sebart Wind 110
I chose not to use countersunk bolts for the front as I feel that they may, later in life put undue separating pressure on the grain of the wood. I chose to go for M4 x 10 button head cap screws, WITHOUT washers. The heads are quite large and work well, and clear the prop adapter with ease.
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Thanks guys. I stopped at Ace on the way home from work.
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RE: Sebart Wind 110
Missing motor mount screws in my kit too.
I used a SHCS with a washer, then ground a chamfer to the head (put the screw in a drill to use as a lathe), and ground a chamfer to the back of the prop adapter until I had clearance (used a drill again to spin adapter as I ground with a file). You need to be careful that the screws do not bottom out. They turn 4 1/2 times before they bottom on the motor, so you must test the length of the screw to get just 4 turns, and not 4 1/2. Since this is such a tight tolerance, please don't trust my numbers and test fit your screws to be sure. |
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