nav-air

Does anyone know the source for Lockheed's S3B Viking model plans or good 3 Views?

Frank Feldhaus

A CNC Kit „Lockheed S3 Viking� is produced by http://www.keiro.ch/e_Beschreibung_viking.html

greets
Frank

BadLemon

My Feedback: (37)

Rich Uravitch has plans coming very soon for and EDF or prop version of the Viking. I talked to Hobby Hangar a few weeks ago and they told me very soon. Here is a video of the EDF version. Very cool.

EDF http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/S-3-wmv


You can see some info on it on his site @ www.richuravitch.com or www.hobbyhangar.com


I would like to have one as well. Hobby Hangar is going to sell the plans parts and wood kits as well the Viking has a 60' wing span go to product spec's on the Rich's site to see the spec's for the Viking. Pic Below

scott9146

My Feedback: (1)

Nav-air,
Shoot me your email address. I may be able to help you. I have a pretty good set of 3-views with cross sections i have been using to scratch a 1/9 version.
You can enlarge or reduce however you like. Mine is going slow right now, i got side tracked and started a Yellow F-15.
My plan was to use 2 100mm fans, and to come up with my own landing gear, etc.
Anyhow, these might help you.
Let me know if you are interested.
Scott

Mkikta

I flew the S-3 for 26 years and always wanted to build an RC model of it. I have started building the Keiro Viking and it is a great kit so far. The kit comes with fiberglass nose cone, canopy, nacelle covers and engine tailpipes as well as all balsa parts laser cut. I will post pictures of my build progress as I can, but if you are interested in building an S-3 model, you should consider this kit.here is how I began building the fuselage:

Mkikta

Here are several more pictures of my fuselage build. The stablizer section is built as a bolt on module.

Mkikta

After building the fuselage according to Keiro's directions, it was time to begin building the wing. Attached are some photos of that process. I made changes to the design in two areas. I made the ailerons a bit shorter and consequently had to move the servo compartment outboard one rib. I also chose to hinge the aileron differently so I needed more wood between ribs to accomodate that. The main reason for making the ailerons shorter, was so I could build some semi-scale flaps. Instead of building the fowler flaps that would be correct & scale, I chose to build slotted flaps because they are considerably less complicated and look almost the same. So I made changes to the wing build in that area also and added some larger pieces of balsa between ribs the length of the flaps so that I would have some wood to glue hinges into.

Mkikta

Here are some pictures of the covering work done on the wing and rudder. The humps on the back of the wing make the wing fit very nicely.

2walla

My Feedback: (10)

Nice looking build! What are you going to run in it? Looks like a good candidate for wemotec mini fans and het 2w25. Plenty of room for the battery in that fuse. Where is the battery access/hatch?

nav-air

Mkikta, thanks for your response, I have in fact purchased a keiro kit, not very far along however,
keep posting those build photos. I plan on using the wemotec 2w-20 mtrs and the new evo 70mm fans.
nav-air

Mkikta

2walla & nav-air,I installed 2 wemotec mini evo fans. I have already installed them in the nacelles but have not had a chance to post any more pictures due to work schedule and travel. I purchased 2 HET 2w-22 motors and also two 2w-25 motors because I was so undecided on what I wanted. i have decided to try the 2w-22 motors first. I bench tested the 2w-22 this past weekend in one nacelle with a 4 cell battery and got the numbers of 45amps, 750 watts and pulled about 2.5lbs ea. Don't have my notes handy but I believe those were the figures. So if I can keep the plane on the lighter side, that should be good enough. I do not plan to remove the wing for battery placement, I plan right now to make the canopy removable so I can charge the pneumatic retracts and replace the battery(s) under the canopy. I may use 2 batteries in parrallel, not sure yet. I have the wings complete, tail module complete and waiting to install the retracts. I have started strengthening the fuse around the retract mounts but can't go any further until I get the retracts. I am having them custom made from RC Crafters in Ohio,and beleve they were shipped today. Can't wait to get them and install them. I will use the VS-32 paint scheme used during "Desert Storm", all gray.Glad to see there are others building this kit, there is very little on-line about building/flying Viking rc.Mkikta

skyhawknut

My Feedback: (3)

I'd love to see pics of the gear from RC crafters when you get them.

Mkikta

Attached are more wing photos. Somehow the order got screwed up but you can see my servo mounts. I moved the aileron servo outboard 1 rib. That area of the wing gets pretty thin and it was difficult to make the hole in the inboard rib large enough for the servo plug. Even though I made the ailerons smaller, they are still a bit larger than scale. The full scale S-3 aircraft used spoilers to augment the ailerons so I was afraid to make the ailerons any smaller. I contacted Kurt at Keiro and asked if he thought I could reduce aileron size without issue and he said yes. Again although out of order, I also included 3 pictures of the flaps that show them up, 1/2 and full down. You can see how I hinged the flaps as slotted flaps are normally hinged. The flaps are actuated through a hole in the wing trailing edge which allows me to push the flaps down and pull them up.

Mkikta

Here I have attached some pictures of building the engine nacelles. Here you can see one nacelle from beginning to end. It was painted with Dupont auto paint and then topcoated with testor's dullcoat. I made the decals on my computer and placed them on the nacelle prior to spraying the dullcoat.

Mkikta

Attached are photos of the wing, engines and tail module completed and covered. I covered everything with Ultracoat Light Gray HANU 882 and Testors Dullcoat. The VS-32 rudder checkerboard was painted on top of the Ultracoat and then dullcoated.

nav-air

MKikta, enjoyed the photos very much and they also provided some insight as I progress with my S3 albeit slow, I like the flap arrangement, perhaps I may contact you for flap/aileron construction help.
I had considered scuffing the ultracote covering with oooo steel wool then painted, as I have in the past with monocote with great success, don't know about ultracote
Keep the photos coming
nav-air

Mkikta

I have done this with Ultracoat on several models with great success. I go to the Dupont Auto Paint store and get the finest sanding pads they have and they work great.

Mkikta

I have finally received my retracts from RC Crafters. So far I love them. Here you can see the entire retracts package on the dark matt. After I positioned the aircraft for a scale fit of the retracts, I taped the mains in position to drill the holes required. You can see that when the gear retracted, it hit rib 10. I installed a rib I call 10.5 before removing the bottom half of rib 10, and relocated longerons on the side and the bottom to act as retracts bay edging and also distribute the stress along the fuselage. You can see I also added some strength along the centerline with a brace between ribs 8 and 10.5. I also removed the circular portion of the center brace on rib 10 so the wheels would fit in the bay and glued another center brace over the remaining portion of rib 10 center brace from the bottom center longeron to the top center brace between ribs 9 and 11. This will also provide a solid STOP for the wheels to bounce against when retracting if needed. The last photo shows the gear in the retracted position.

Mkikta

Attached here are more photos showing my retracts installation progress to date. Note how large I had to make the nose gear opening so the strut and double wheels would easily fit going in and out. Because of the length of the nose wheel strut, I was forced to raise the nose gear mounting plate considerably. You can see the nose retract in both the down and up positions. I think it fits quite well. Because I had to make the opening so large, I do not think the doors will meet in the center when closed, that is if I want them to look scale at all. I think that it make work out well though since I need to find some way to get positive airflow into the fuselage for the batteries and ESCs. Then maybe I can drill out the sonobuoy chute holes on the bottom and that will give me the air exhaust I need.

nav-air

Mkikta, thanks for posting the photos, the landing gear look simply fantastic, they also resemble the A7 gear, there probably was some collaboration with Vought.
It appears that you are having to make some extensive modifications to the airframe to accommodate the gear.
did you provide RC crafters with scale drawings of the gear if so perhaps you might consider sharing, I will have to study your text more carefully The installation looks very good and now I am wondering
what effect the take off rotation is going to be with the mains quite far behind the C.G.
I anxiously await further progress.
nav-air

Mkikta

nav-airI can say for sure since I flew the full size viking for 26 years, that Vought designed the S-3 landing gear so that's why it resembles A-7 gear a lot. These retracts in my picture are basically RC Crafters 1/10 scale A-7 gear slightly modified to look more like S-3 gear. I sent them lots of pictures of S-3 landing gear and Ed at RCCrafters made some changes to make them look more scale . The A-7 had a bit smaller(less beefy) gear than the S-3 since the S-3 was heavier. So I figured the 1/10 scale A-7 gear should work well in the 1/14 scale S-3. I checked with Kurt at Keiro and he concurred and had actually looked at them as potential retracts for his Viking a number of years earlier. So I purchased them. I'm not too worried about any effects on the CG at this point, especially since the nose gear package is pretty heavy. I'll set the balance up with the mains retracted. I am more concerned about the total weight added to the aircraft actually. That's one reason why I don't intend to do any fiberglassing of the fuselage, just balsa and Iron on covering. As far as rotation goes, all of that will be happening pretty quickly with that big wing and as long as no over rotation occurs, there will be no issues, I'm pretty confident of that. Never was in the real aircraft.I am also concerned about the landing gear being in the fuselage vs in the wing when it comes to stability at touchdown. Don't want that big wing tip touching the ground on landing. The A-7 had the advantage of short wings.

nav-air

Mkikta, I too am concerned about the track of the mains, also I had the desire to incorporate at least the outer spoiler but that simply is not possible, I had already retired when the S 3 came on line but I appreciated the spoilers on the Grumman TF-1 when flying aboard carriers from Italy in the 50's

Mkikta

Nav-air,

Attached is a Rt wing down full scale S-3 landing aboard the ship. This is what I hope to avoid with my model.

nav-air

MkiKta It would appear that the hook and wire are disengaged and a bolter was in order
nav-air

Mkikta

I have attached some of my latest photos, first showing covering of the fuse with Balsa and then covering the Balsa with Light Gray Ultracoat. I will paint the fiberglass nose and coat everything with Dullcoat