Buggygovroom

Hey everybody,

I have been flying for a while, but EDF is a bit new to me. I am currently flying a modded F-27 Stryker Pusher and I am interested in this plane here.

http://www.rc-warbirds.com/product_i...roducts_id/343

I currently have a CC 60 ESC, a Mega 16/25/3 motor, HS 85MG servos, and Futaba 6EXAP remote. I am assuming I should use a bigger capacity battery with this plane but in the mean time I have a TP 4s2p 2650 and 2 Apachee 3s1p that I usually run in series.

If anyone knows this model could you give me some reccomendations? I will probably buy new gear since I really like my stryker here

http://youtube.com/watch?v=OKaRnhg3JkQ

I wouldnt mind staying with mega motors if possible, but the listing at rc-warbirds has a 2 turn and 3 turn listed for reccomended motors. Which should I go with for what reason? Any info is appreciated.

Thanks!

CTulanko

Buggygovroom,

The CC60 ESC, Radio and HS-85 servos will work great, however, the motor is a bit heavy and low on the RPM/V for the model. It would be usable, but it would take a 7S 2600mah 10C or better pack to power it. A better choice with speeds around 70-90mph would be your setup and a Mega 16/15/2 2Turn or the 2W motor at www.warbirds-rc.com on a 3S Lipo that can handle 50 amps or more...a Polyquest 3200, TP Prolite 3S4200 or anything equivelant would be fine. For a stronger setup, use your readio, same servos, same CC60 ESC and go with the 2W20 motor at Warbirds, or a Hacker B40-9L, Kontronik 480-33 or Mega 16/20/2 and get speeds over 100mph on a 4S Lipo that can supply around 60 amps or more, like the Polyquest 3200, 3700, TP 4200-6000 or Kokam 3200 or any other 20C pack.

It all depends on how much you want to spend...the 3S is more economical, doesn't require a U-BEC and is a bunch of fun. While the 4S setup has more performance, in the 600-700 watt range, it is more expensive, it does add several oz of weight and is more stressful on the airframe.

Your call and good luck with your choice!

Carl

Buggygovroom

Thanks for the info! I had my eye on that 2W-20 but wasnt sure untill I did some more research. Over 100 mph is more my style if i want a slow flier i'll go with a high wing cruiser. Sure big slow high flying airplanes are fun and a couple people stop to watch, but usually when I have something zipping through the air at 100 mph it draws a crowd

Now when your saying a lipo that can supply 60 amps or more... do you mean constant or burst? My 3 cells are 20/30C 2100 packs and i use them together as a 6S1P. I don't really like sharing batteries between planes so i'll most likely get a new one anyway. More like 2 new ones since one battery isn't enough for an outing.

I seen that these can be hand launched. Id much rather hand launch instead of using a bungee. Again thanks for the info

CTulanko

Buggy,

When I stated 60 amps, I meant constant...the 2W20 motor or any of the other 4S motors will draw amps in the upper 40's to low 50's amp range. The 2100's are no where near good enough and if they are similar to the ones I have that are marked 20-30C, they are more like 20-30amp. I have bench tested many of these and they draw a 35amp max with a serious voltage drop, indicating they are out of their range. The minimum 4S pack recommended would be a Polyquest 2500 20C and that would be a marginal choice as you are right at the limit of the pack, which should not be done as it will deter from the life of the pack.

You should use something like a Polyquest 20C 4S/3200, a Thunder Power ProLite 4S/4200 and another choice would be the Kokam 4S/3200 or two 2S/3200's in series. All of these packs supply constant current in the 60 amp range or higher and are powerful enough to work. The extra range over the amps you would draw will allow better cooling and longer life for the pack.

Carl

Buggygovroom

I finally started the build of the bug... Im about half way through and when I went to install the servos one of those gold adapters with the knurled nut was missing. It had to be missing from the pack because the nut, and adapter were missing and I opened the baggy into a box and everything else is accounted for.

I wound up going with a TP 5S 3850 extreme pack for a battery. One question I have is when assembling the canopy how exactly does it go on so you can access the screw to remove the battery?

Thanks

CTulanko

Did you get your model from Markos at www.warbirds-rc.com? If so, he would probably be happy to ship you missing hardware. Alos, the canopy mounting procedures should be on the CD instructions that came with the model. In short, you use canopy glue like RC-56 to glue only the sides of the canopy to the cockpit cover. Then you can drill a small hole in the top of the canopy above the rear screw so you can get to it with a screwdriver. Uncrew the screw, then lift the canopy and cockpit plate up at the rear and slide back to remove.

Carl