Anyone who has built and flown this, I would appreciate any and all comments. Good, bad or otherwise.
Thanks

hi mate
have a look at http://www.warbirds-rc.com/ web site, they have done a build of this bird and put air retracts etc on it. this will give you some good info on doing a build. i have been adivise to fly with 2x 4c of around 3700 to get the proformance out of it. i still have one in the box which after i get the mig 15 going i have just received should give me the push to get moving on this one.

Thanks G T
I checked out that build and it was very interesting and informative. I especially liked the door closing mechanisms. I
could use that on a larger model I have. Thanks again and get to building....something...[sm=lol.gif]

Dick

PS..here's a GWS Me-262 that I'm flying now...

HI AGAIN
i like your gws 262 carnt say i know much on these but i think you paint them ? if you have it looks great. one of our club members has alot of the gws stuff but i have not taken too much notice . i will post someting on the het when i get going on it but have a few projets on the go to get completed first. GOOD LUCK ON YOUR BUILD ASWELL

Dick, you can always give Carl a holler( CTulanko) he does the builds on the HET birds for Warbirds-rc.</p>

He gave me quite a few tips on the F-20 that really saved me some grief.</p>

I have the 262 in the build future, already peeked at it .  Ok a little more then peeked, something Carl had mentioned on it I just remembered, I did cut out the gun holes for some cooling airflow in the fuselage. And I got rid of the center seam on the fuselage.  </p>

Already have some different ideas and a question or two myself.  I'm looking at using electric retracts vs the air or servo operated versions.</p>

Already have em, just have to see if I'll be able to squeeze them in the wings. </p>

My questions so far has to do with the glass tubes for intake and exhaust. Mine came in what I would call bare fiberglass, I can feel the weave in the cloth on them.   I'm wondering if I should take the time to smooth them out on the inside, as I'm thinking the roughness might just cause a turbulence problem as the air goes across the weave.</p>

Granted the tubes are short compaired to the ones on the F-20, but I'm still thinking every little bit to smooth out the airflow will be a good thing.</p>

Also I'm really leaning to putting the esc's in the wings vs behind the motors. More I think about it, anything removed from the exhaust flow, that could disturb it is a good thing.  I built the GWS version just to try this idea out.  I buried the esc's in the wings just inside from the fan housings, and crafted a pair of covers for them. Left the covers open front and rear so they would flow the air right over and thru the esc's. Even running four cell setup the esc's stayed nice a cool.  The motor's? well the stock green ones didn't like all that power for long. LOL</p>

Be nice to see some more builds on this bird, I actually was looking for more builds today when I stumbled on yours. It's the only one I've found so far, even checking on RCG and Watt flyer.</p>

You should go ahead and do the build on here. I'm sure you'll get a lot of advice, and I know I'll be watching. Gotta finish my Gee Bee R3 first, but the 262 is next. </p>

 </p>

</p>

Oh something else, I tend to do things we call "Dark Side".Something from my old Stryker days. I tend to build over powered birds and on occasion go off the wall on paint and always give em a name. "Goblin" was my F-20. Last power system was pushing over 1100 watts, it was actually so over powered myself and my clubs guru on electric set ups came to the conclusion that the fan was spinning so fast it was actually cavitating. Ever see a WeMo fan melt the blades? This one did, only took two runs to do it. Easy 100 mph +++ before the fan gave up.</p>

But man was it sweet in the air, it screamed, you could hear the whistle from the intake air as it came towards you and the scream as it blew by.</p>

It's still gives me chills thinking about it.</p>

I'm going to go with the stock power set up from Warbirds to start out, see how it does and then go from there.</p>

But I've already decided to be different on the 262. Instead of the typical camo WWII version that everyone has done I'm going what if?</p>

What if somebody had the bucks to actually make one a private bird? Thinking how cool would that be to cruise into the local airport in a private Me262? Park that baby next to the Lears and make the owners cry.</p>

Anyhow, somewhat like the custom paint job on "Goblin" , I'm going the same routeon the 262, but way more. I'm going with PPG Vibrance Rattlesnake.</p>

It's a flop color, uses crystals instead of metal flakes to go from basic black that changes to kelly green to bronze to blue to red and a couple other shades dependent on how the light hits it. I did my son's drifter RX7 with it and it is a sight to see. Every panel is a different color, some even two or more at the same time.</p>

And just to keep orientation, just like the F20 I'll do the underside in a candy stripe red/white, on the wings and horizontal stabilizers.</p>

Still gotta figure out a name for her, and yeah she'll still have the guns. What better way to eliminate waiting in line for take off. LOL!!!!</p>

Hmm, got mine today. Sort of scared, looks like I am alone with the plane here... Can not find any other builders. Anyone out there building or flying it?

G'day Okinchi
I have just completed the build on my HET ME262. This model has electric retracts which work very well but I think they will not stand up to any sort of hard landing as they are for models up to 2.5kg. I am very concerned about the finished weight of this model which is 3kg without paint. I have 2 x 3700mAh 4S batteries up front and the model is still slightly tail heavy which means I still have to add weight. My fan and motor choice also are not up to scratch with this weight. I chose a hobbyking 2800kv setup on 4S. They claim 1.2kg of thrust each but I doubt they will give that amount. I think I will go for a HET typhoon setup as they can get 4000kv+ which will be better for this weight. Any updates from anyone else??
Toz

2800Kv on 4s even in the HET fan will be very mild, in fact I would expect only 30-33 amps per fan, you could easily run both on one battery pack!! Having two 3700 packs is overkill for your setup.

Best to get a pair of 2W20's if you want to stick with the stock fans. The 262 however really deserves some nice sounding fans in it, a pair of Wemo's with 2W18's will get it moving out really well, 1.5kg thrust per fan on 4 cells at 58 amps, your packs will be perfect for this setup.

A customer built one of these and it flew really nicely on the 2W18 setup.The old GWS 262 was a bit of a handful at low speed, nasty stall, I ran mine (when they first came out years ago) on GWS fans with 3900Kv blue motors, 4s2200, was clocked at around 100mph, flew really well.

G'day Extreme RC
I purchased my model from you guys about 6mths ago. I am very worried about the overall weight of the model.
As I previously said, the model weighs about 3kg with no paint and I am still slightly tail heavy.
The Vertical stab on this thing weighs a ton. The fitment was extremly bad as the connection point at the base of the vertical stab was flaired and hard to align.
Filler was the name of the game at the rear end. The landing gear also will be lacking at this weight.
With the typhoon motor setup - 20W18 or 1W30, will the model fly well at about 3.2KG's.
I am thinking bungie and ramp for launching as the gear will not stand up to grass fields.
What do you think??
Toz

The twins do end up weighing quite a lot, 3kg is pretty normal. But with 2W18's and wemo's it will still hammer along, you are at 1:1 thrust to weight. I too think bungee is safer on grass fields, although I have had reports that the retracts are ok on short grass, my experience has been I need huge power when dealing with grass and rotation and small wheels!

I would stick with 2W18's, the 1W30 setup pulls stupid amps and requires big batteries, its ok for a single but for a twin you would need to carry 5000mah 4s packs to get any sort of run time.

G'day Extreme RC
Thanks for the info. I will be buying those 2W18's soon. What kind of amps willthey draw? Would my 60A ESC's be safe or on the limit?
Also is it recomended to have a working rudder? The instruction book is almost useless as it does not refer at all to the current version of the model.
My experience says no rudder is necessary but I can make it work if required.
Where do you recomend to install the bungie hook? How far back from the nose?
Toz

Best to get onto the other forum as there is a lot more info on the HET models and a lot of build threads. Hook usuallyis a few inches in front of CG but again, the build threads will be more helpful than any manual!
The 2W18 pulls around 55-58 amps so you will be ok if you get the ESC's into the duct for cooling, really any esc you use will need airflow regardless its size.

I plan on building one of these.  I have teh HET a-10 which is similar weight.  Go with teh 2w-20 and HET fans, and two 4s 3300 30C lipos.

There is not much info on certain HET models.  I plan to build the 262 this year. 

My a-10 screams and is fun to fly.  I glassed with wings with 2 oz cloth so it is heavy but still lands very nice.