Bobby...I started putting together the SmoothE and you were right about the lack of difficulty in building. I built a glow Sig Cadet kit about ten years ago and it took forever to complete. I then flew it with a dead battery in the rx and it crashed into a building on it's 3rd flight. That was about the time that I left the hobby.

But the laser cuts and the simpicity of this kit make for a much more enjoyable build and it should only take me a few nights. I already have the 2 wings (sport/slowflyer), ailerons, and about 1/4of the fuse done in about 4-5 hrs.
Do you have any recomendations on a heat gun for the covering??

Thanks for telling me about it. I feel like I can accomplish anything now...hehe.


Thanks...Joe

I to'd ya it would be a quick build!!

As for covering, you'll be doing the wings with tape, yes? My foam wing is taped and I'm happy with it. It's done with colored tape, 2" width.

Ask for "Zagi tape" at your hobby shop and they'll know what you're talking about if they know anything about electrics. So you only need to cover the fuselage with actual covering, and even that you can paint instead of cover. Just do a light coat if you do.

The fuselage is such a quick job that I'd hate to see you have to go out and buy something just for that, unless you're hooked and will be getting more kits now!

Is there someone you know who is in the hobby and can lend you a covering iron? That's what you need for the fuse, not a gun. If you do need to purchase one, I use a very simple and inexpensive one that I got from the hobby shop. It's the Hobbico Custom Sealing Iron. Has a heat adjusting knob. Price was fifteen bucks.

You're REAL close to having that puppy in the air!

Enjoy!

BobbyG

Stupid me, I already got wing tape and a gun for the fuse...will it work if I spay 3m finely first??

I haven't tried it that way. Did you just buy the gun? See if you can return it and get an iron instead.

Someone else might chime in here, but I'd be concerned that the gun won't get the cover to adhere correctly to the balsa on the fuselage and you'll end up with bubbling and inadequate adhesion.

You might want to give iot a try on some scrap pieces, though.

BobbyG

I will bring it back tomorrow. It looks like the monocote won't cover completely...do you find this or not?

Also do you tape the first piece on or just lay it down an smooth?

(newbie)

thx Joe

I'm not sure what you mean by "It won't cover completely."

Do you mean not enough material, or that it might be a bit translucent?

Is is actual Monocote that you have, or are you using the term generically for the covering material?

I'm guessing that you mean it's translucent. Some of the lighter materials will be a bit translucent, so they will let some or a lot of the wood grain show through. Don't worry about that. Depending on what color you have, some colors end up more translucent than others.

The covering gives you a color layer and adds a bit of strength to the finished model. No need to do two layers if some wood grain shows through, you'll just be adding weight to the model and no benefit.

There's no need to tape the first piece. Just get the piece lined up and tack down an edge. Slowly stretch and work out from there along the surface until you're done with that side. It's no different from ironing a piece of clothing. Leave a bit overlapping over the edge and tack that down before doing the next side. You'll have the hang of it in no time. Just avoid having too hot of an iron. Not enough heat is better than too much.

What brand is the covering you're using? It can help to know that.

And please, don't apologize for being a newbie. It's what these forums are all about. It wasn't so long ago that I was aking some real basic questions and it was through these threads that I learned a lot about the hobby. Before too long you'll be helping a newer flyer out and that's how the hobby grows and spreads ... and improves! \

Enjoy!

BobbyG

I haven't picked up new covering yet. I am not sure as to what to buy. I was thinking about spraying the Balsa and then adding decals.
What would you recomend for covering?
I did mean translcent btw.

Thanks Joe

Joe,

Since the only balsa on this airplane is the fuselage, spraying it can be a good approach.

As for covering, with parkflyers one preferred covering is Solite. It's also marketed here in the US as Nelson's Light Film and I believe Coverite is also going to start packaging it, I forget what the name will be. This stuff can be hard to find, but don't let that keep you. There are others that will be suitable.

Stick with the lighter types mostly because the heavier ones may shrink too aggressively and might distort the structure some - although distorting a box fuselage would take a lot. Browse what's available at the local hobby shop.

At the end of the day, go with what you feel most comfortable with. Either way you'll have a great flying airplane.

My first cover job on my original Dandy was done with 21st Century Fabric .... you can't get any heavier than that! It looked and felt like something I could work with on my first build. I ended up with a model a good 3 ounces heavier than what most people were reporting and it flies great! It wants a bit more speed because of the extra weight, but that hasn't hurt my getting a lot of enjoyment out of it.

Go with what you feel best suits your time, skills and the look you want. Then get to flying!!!!!

Enjoy!

BobbyG

Sorry 4 the delay Bobby,

I think I will go with spray paint and maybe add some decals...seems easiest way out.

I like to build and tinker with these things alot but I have a feeling that I will get that "don't want to fly it now 'cause it looks too good syndrome" if I go over board with the finish. I did that with the p51 and destroyed it totally in 3 tries.[&o]

The Build went very good so far but I had to stop and build a new GWS Beaver for my friend

On another subject...I just (out of the blue) bought a GWS 400 just to check it out. I put it in my friends Beaver dhc2 and cannot believe the difference. It's got alot more thrust then the 2015 himx in mine. I was wondering, since I don't want to trash a new 2025 himx in the SmoothE while learning, do you think a 400 would fit and be a good fit or do you think a 370 is enough? Also do you think it will get cooked off of an 11.1 1500mah battery. We cooked 2 with that set up but running only an 8 amp GWS esc. Also the props were a 4 blade 10/8 which was rubbing against the cowling and once w/ an 11/47. I think it was a combination of the small esc and too big of a prop.
I have a 20a Electrafly for the 300/400 ready to go in for starters and then the brushless set up when I get the hang of it.

(still a little gun-shy after the whole p-51 dabockle).

Also not too drag this out, do you have any tips/ suggestions for keeping the motor mount/ firewall in tact in nose dows?


Thanks for reading...Joe

Joe,

I'm not at all familiar with the GWS 400 motor, so I'm no help there. Maybe someone else can chime in, or you might send a note to Doug or Matt at Mountain Models. My experience with them has always been that one gets a prompt reply.

It's a good idea to get a feel for the plane with "stock" motor before going the brushless route. I've been using a GWS 350 with C gearbox and 9 x 7 props in my Dandy. Good match for 2S LiPolys. I've been getting 20-25 minutes with the TP 2100's and the GWS ESC. I just make sure I land as soon as I feel power backing off so as not to go below 3v per cell. I have no idea what a 3S matched with a 400 motor will do. I'll be using 3S when I go to the HiMax and I'll also use a Castle Creations ESC.

As for the nose my approach was to build as per the plans. After nose-ins I repair any damage and reinforce accordingly. It's hard to foresee and try to avoid damage from the inevitable dings. I have noticed that it has gotten progressively stronger as I repair and beef up. You'll probably have the same experience.

Paint and decals sounds like a good way to do the fuselage. It should come out looking good.

I hope you get it in the air soon. You'll be very pleased with it.

BobbyG