w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You can have better control with ahand file

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

My belt sander usually gets a good bit of use when I convert an engine. Then a sanding drum in a Dremel for final dressing. All this of course after all the raw cutting has been done. For that I usually use my band saw. But many years ago I did my first one with nothing more than a drill, a hack saw, and some files...

I'd like to have a mill, but can't afford one. I did buy a heavy duty mill vise to use in my drill press. If I'm careful, it does a good job of milling crankcases, etc.

AV8TOR

gr8flyer55

I'm not really sure, but from your pictures it would seem like there is next to nothing left of it to attach a rear mount. Anyone notice this or am I just not looking close enough?

John

cwd60tx

Oh there are 3 long /bolts that go through the casing that I am going to make a mount to bolt them too, I will have to buy longer ones and some washers and nuts, yes I was concerned about that before I started but I checked it out on some others and that is how they did it, I see no problem doing it this way,but thanks for pointing it out

gr8flyer55

Sorry for sounding so pessimistic about nothing being left to work with. When I convert an engine, mounting is my first concern. If it looks like too much extra work for a reliable mount, I'd rather skip the conversion than waste my time working on it. I have a Mac saw engine that was a very good runner in the saw figuration, but had a forward facing carb. I decided not to persue the conversion because of anticipated adjustment problems. Just recently decided to see if I was right, and mounted it without ruining my return path to saw configuration. Turns out I was 100% correct with the problem of carb adjustments on the needles. The faster it ran, the worse it got (rich) due to ram air effect from prop blast. I now have a good chainsaw with plenty of use ahead.

Returning to the subject at hand, are you using 3 threaded standoffs for the mount? Seeing the 3 case bolts now would probably be your best bet. Use hardened bolts though as this size engine could be kind of nonforgiving in twisting anything left to chance. Just my 2 cents worth, been there done that.

John

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

to answer your earlier question, it's an RC EXL ignition and works good.

On the mounting, if you look at mine you can see I did it fairly similar to your plan just with 4 of the 5 case bolts. The standoff's are threaded for about 1" at the firewall end, there is a long piece of all thread threaded into the crankcase sticking out both ends of the standoff's. There are nyloc nuts on both sides of the studs. This will keep the studs in tension so they are strongest and stiffest. If you did something similar I would make the diameter of the standoff as large as possible to get the largest footprint and try to use a screw for the threads instead of all thread as all thread isn't the strongest material in the world given the number of bolts to be used and the size of the engine.

cwd60tx

Thanks for all the help and suggestions that everyone has given,I am sure when I get it finished it will be one hell of a engine! I have another question for anyone that could help and tell me what kind of muffler this is,I picked it a few years back when I was having my boat trailer welded and the owner of the welding shop owner new I was intio RC"s and gave me it.A customer brought it in to have the extentions brazed on ,but never paided to have it done and never returned,so I got them I havent even see if they would fit any of my glow engines I have,

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Looks like a Pitts style after market muffler for a big glow engine? Probably Bisson or Slimline.

See if you can adapt it to your engine

cwd60tx

I tried but a little small,,,When I get a chance I will try it on one of my glow engines I have a 1.20 and a 90 Thanks