Do you think it is this one:
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXATG7&P=0]Great Planes Adjustable Engine Mount 1.20-1.80 [/link]

Looks like a good engine mount from Great Planes.

Yah, and I have it at LHS. My only concern is rated for 1.8ci. 42 is over 2.5ci. Will it hold? I don't know about the Poulan 42, does it shake much?

I run my Chain saw yesterday , and the engine runs sweet. I wonder, what happens if I just replace the spark plug with a glow plug and run my chain saw like that? Is it safe?

Av8tor, try a little acetone in your fuel. They call for one to three ounces per 10 gal. you will have to figure what you need for a gal. It will give you better performance with your fuel. Acetone will give the fuel the ability to vaporize completey by reducing the surface tension that inhibits vaporization of fuel.
Ken

Yeah, that's the mount I have. Hey, if it will hold a FIRE breathing 1.80 two stroke glow engine, it should hold my little ol' conversion motor!!

Seriously, I think it will be fine but I'll keep a close eye on it.

Rysium, straight gasoline won't work for gas/glow. Neither will E-85 gasohol, as I tried. The fuel has to have methanol in it for the glow plug to work properly. Read back through this thread and you will see all the experiments we've tried, and what works.

Box car... Don't see any need to change my mix as it's working perfectly, but thanks.

AV8TOR

I know, I'm not new to the thread. Actually my Poulan 25 worked quite fine with pure gas/oil as long as I kept the power on the glow plug ([link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3082557/mpage_2/key_poulan+25/tm.htm]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3082557/mpage_2/key_poulan 25/tm.htm[/link])

What my question was about is runnumng the glow plug (with methanol or not) straight inside the chain saw. Is it safe?

av8tor,
When I get my engine back from Poco242 I will run some test with and with out acetone and post the rpm. Guys I know that are using it say they get a good increase in power, I will see.
Check this web about gas and acetone. I no guys that are running it in their diesel trucks.
www.pureenergysystems.com/acetone
Ken

Box Car: Ok thanks!

Rysium: Sorry.... had brain fade there for a minute and didn't realize whom I was writing to at that moment. Umm, yeah, you could run it in the chain saw that way, but why? The only worry might be how to shut it down. With glow power, you could shut that off, with methanol and no glow power you could choke it off to kill it I guess. Methanol is safer and less explosive than gasoline as far as the safety goes....

AV8TOR

Just for the experiment. I mean I don't have a plane yet, but just for trying out if the thing will run on glow so I don't need to plan on spark ignition pickup when the conversion time comes. I would love to run it witout ignition - less to worry about the radio interference

Yes, I see your point. I might end up with cutting all the threes in the neighbourhood before the thing runs out of gas

Please help,

I converted my ryobi to glow, but can't even get it to fire? Am I missing something?

Setup:

1 part Wildcat 10% nitro and 16% oil glow fuel to two parts high test gasoline
leaving the power to the glow plug.
looks like it's getting plenty of fuel......

I'm spinning it up with a 24v electric starter. It ran great on gas with magneto.

Could it be to much oil in the mix?

Well, you definitely have too much oil, but that wouldn't make it not start and run.

It's the old thing; if it's got compression and fire and fuel at the right time, it will run... Check the glow plug, spin it without the plug to see if it's flooded, if not choke it more, etc. It should run. Mine start so easy it's ridiculous, and I never use a starter. Keep trying.

If it's not flooded when you spin it over without the glow plug, you might try shooting a little raw fuel in the plug hole to prime it. If it fires then, you'll know you're chasing a fuel supply problem.

Good luck,
AV8TOR

AV8TOR: If you do not use a starter...do you use a heavy leather glove in-case of kickback? Is it easy to get bit with the prop? Just kinda wondering what to expect. Capt,n

Scott14 If I understood your glow fuel correctly (10% Nitro 16% oil and 74% methanol) and your mixing that with 2 times as much gasoline.

You might try: 1 part glow fuel; 1 part methonal; and 3 parts gasoline. That should bring you to a mix very close to (60% gasoline 35% methanol, 3% oi,l 2% nitro ) which is just a tad high on methanol.

Have you made any carb needle adjustments?

Scott14 you definitely need to choke your carb with your finger or choke lever if possible in order to get priming fuel into the engine, when I did my first conversion it happened to me until I got to think that when you have the engine in your garden equipment you need to prime the engine with a priming bulb or by choking the engine before you start it. Another thing AV8TOR and I are using R/C CAR glow fuel that contains 10% oil in order to get the 3% and the end of the mix, but like AV8TOR mentioned excess oil wouldn't prevent it from firing up, it might drop the RPM'S but it will still FIRE UP.

Thanks for the reply's......

I'll choke the heck out of it and see if it helps.... was worried about flooding it. I agree it should at least be firing, that's what makes me confused.

I'm using the glow adapter from Wacker Engines, and I noticed by visual inspection with the cylinder removed that it rides higher in the spark plug threads, thus reducing the compression... I removed the cylinder gasket and and machined the lip around the plug last night... this set the glow plug at the same level where the spark plug had been..... I'll keep testing.

Also richened the low side needle 1/2 turn from where it ran before (gas only with mag.). I read on this thread that the engines seemed to like a richer low side.

What are you guys using to keep glow power connected? The glow plug is seated so far down in the adapter that a traditional glow plug igniter can't lock on, and keeps falling off when I crank the engine.

I'll keep on trying... I don't give up easily

I start with both needles about 3/4 turn out from where they were with gas, then adjust from there once the engine is running and warm. I start these the same as my ignition/gas engines. Full choke and flip till it runs for a second and stops. Then remove the choke and flip till it starts. (Usually two or three flips at that point and it's off and running.) It's always a good idea to have a piece of clear tubing up near the carb, so you can see when the fuel arrives at the carb. It can take a number of flips to get the fuel to the carb if the tank had been empty, and the choke has to be tight shut to draw the fuel up. If the choke has a hole in it, or if you are in doubt about it sealing, choke it with you finger until the fuel gets to the carb, then use my starting procedure above.

Captain, I use a rubber sleeved chicken stick. For the 30cc and under I probably wouldn't bother with a chicken stick, but the APC props I use are sharp and I've sliced my fingers just turning one over by hand to check compression or to distribute after run oil!!

The problem very well could be you're not getting good contact with your glow connector. I use one of the red top spring loaded glow connectors connected to my power panel on my flight box. It has thin enough sides that it will fit down into the adapter well. I think a lot of the self contained glow igniters have thicker sides. In a pinch, you could use a wheel collar to connect a wire to the center post of the glow plug. (Drill a hole in the side of the adapter for access to the set screw on the wheel collar.) If you do this, make a small washer out of a piece of silicone tubing to put on the post first, so the wheel collar can't go all the way down and short out against the body of the glow plug.

Good luck,
AV8TOR

but the APC props I use are sharp and I've sliced my fingers just turning one over by hand

APC Props: Always Pinky Cutting
I think APC props are the only time my hand gets hanger rash loading the car

I think that is your problem. Very old school with engines says it it sparks and gas gas it must fire. It may not run efficient, it may not run at all, fut at leas it will fire. So if the engine does not fire only two things can be: no fuel, or no ignition (on four-stroke it might be bad timing on valves).

For connecting a cable I used glow extension cable like this one:
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBC35&P=7]Model Products Head Lock Remote Single[/link]

I just found something. [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP09&P=M]Traxxas Lead Wire Glow Plug T-Maxx[/link]. Would it work?

As for the turning the prop I use heavy padded leather glow. Regardless if I'm turning APC, Mejzlik or wooden prop. All of them are painful. For preventing kickback I never turn the prop over the top. Doesn't matter if ignition or glow plug is on or off. As a rule I alway flip the prop like I would want to start it. For flipping I don't press hard against the compression (like trying it out). I turn the prop ad when I feel a little resistance from the compression (what means both ports: exit and transfer) are closed I don't turn the prop further, I flip it.

And the last important safety note: Always be prepared for the engine starting backward. Have a plan and be ready to kill the engine immediately.

When I was in ground school, oooo, more years ago than I care to think about now, the instructor was talking one day about all the three letter identifiers and such we were going to have to learn. CHT, EGT, TCA, MEA, VOR, DME, ETC. ETC. ETC. Then he wrote on the blackboard: KYGDHOTP. Everyone wondered what that meant. At the end of the class he said, "It's a safety tip; KEEP YOUR G** D*** HANDS OFF THE PROP!!



AV8TOR

Guys, I have been reading through his thread, you guys have done a great job, it's been very informative. I do have question, I have converted a Honda GX-31 for R/C and would like to know how I can squeeze some more RPM's out of it? Would adding some pure nitro or methanol to straight pumped gas help, please remember that this engine uses an oil reservoir and is oil is not premixed like in two stroke engines
Currently it is spinning a Bolly 18X8 with magneto at 6500 to 6600 rpm's. With a Warlboro WYK 16-1-1 carb. I would like to get it up to 7500 rpm's. Would any of you folks suggest a fuel mix to get an extra kick? Any input would be appreciated

Thanks

I didn't try that, but we have been warned many times about mixing nitro and gasoline. The thing is explosive if not done right.
I don't know if you can get more from this 4-stroke. Getting out more power might damege the the engine or at least shorten it's lifespan. It is 4-stroke and it is used not for the performance, but just for show and sound.

RysiuM, I agree with you, the Honda is not for big power but it is rated up to 10000 rpms per the manufacturer, I know thats not under load but I was thinking 7500 rpms under load would be a safe bet.

my advice is...Sell Honda.....buy a Shindawa!!! Capt,n

Yeah, you're not going to find the power you're looking for in the fuel mix in this case. Methanol can make more power, but only if the compression is increased a good bit to really take advantage of the methanol's octane rating. Nitro can add power, but not in the small amounts we are using either. It's more for throttle response, etc., in these amounts. My "Gas/glow" motors only turn a couple of hundered r's faster than with straight gasoline.

Four strokes are tough to hop up for now; until they become more popular and someone starts making high compression pistons, hot cams, etc. for them. Check into some boat forums. They are pretty progressive on hopping motors up, and I've seen some posts concerning some hop ups for this motor, but I can't remember where at the moment. Do a search here in RCU for leads...

The smog laws will probably eventually kill the two strokes sad to say, and then the four thumpers will be more developed. Until then, it's kind of like they said... sound and novelty.

AV8TOR

When mixing, always put the nitro in the gas.
Never the gas in the nitro.