I can't tell how this clutch part comes off the crank. Is it threaded ? If so right handed or left ?

Is it pressed on the shaft ? Straight shaft or tapered ? Keyed ?

Any help will be appreciated !!!!!

was it held in place by a 6mm screw? if so then it's probably the same as my kawasaki and all the little zenoahs...taper fit with no key.

i put a threaded stub in the crank and give it a few light taps and a little heat. a puller would be even better...


dave

Thanks Dave, Yes it was held on with a 6mm screw. I'll get out the heat gun & puller.

After applying lots of heat with my Turner torch and my puller as tight as it will go,,,, no luck !

ZAGNUT --- RCIGN1 Any more ideas ? It sure acts as if it's screwed on. ?????

wouldn't make much sense for it to be threaded on AND have the M6 screw. if you still have the model number you might find an exploded view...

and pullers always work better with a hammer[>:]

dave

Even with lots of heat I about beat my poor puller to a pulp, it didn't even think about moving !

how about cutting the hub on one side almost all the way to the shaft and then using a chisel to expand/split it? a little destructive but it won't hurt the shaft.

a dremel with a 1/8" carbide burr would work good


dave

I kind of wanted to save the part thinking that I could turn it down and use it to mount the CDI magnet. One of RCIGN's would fit in that rear housing. Right now it looks like splitting it may be my only alternative.

Dave (ZAGNUT) was absolutely right ! Tapered fit, no key. I did end up having to split it to get it off, tightest fit I ever saw.

Thanks for the help

if you want simple you can use a stock G-23 hub and prop nut on that shaft. might have to flip the crank around though.

also if that clutch housing is removable it'll save quite a bit of weight and you'll still have four studs to screw the mount plate to. or better yet just put four screws through the firewall


dave