Hi all, have been given a near new 2.0ci poulan for a plane engine.
Doesn't look like it can be converted.
What do you think ?>
see pic, cheers torp.

You'll never really know till you rip it apart,- If it has ball type main bearings on the crank, it would be better, If it has needles, then you will probably need some sort of thrust bearing to take the pull of the prop.

2Cu Ins. is about 32cc (off the top of my head) so it's probably similar to one I have stowed away somewhere. Because of the direction of rotation, you'll have to use the flywheel end to attach a prop hub.

What is the contraption at the top of the cylinder head? Oil tank? Fuel tank? - It is a chainsaw motor isn't it?

Anything can be converted within reason, depends on how much work you want to do!

I take it you're a Kiwi, I know New Zealand well, but where do you call Vegas?

looks good to me. with it's rear exhaust, rear canted plug and carb down low you would get a nice, clean installation in a cowl. a little bit of cutting involved but no more than other saws.

reed valves are nice too


dave

Hi Willdo, am from ashburton , ashvegas.{sorry will up date profile, ha ha }
yes that is the tank at top.And is a chain saw.Had a cracked oil tank.
Thanks ZAGNUT for the thumbs up.
Put the thing away last night as i thought it was a no go.
Will get it out later and strip some more,will post pic.
Thanks Willdo and ZAGNUT,
torp

O'kay , what do i do next fella's ???????
1-completely strip and then grind to shape, or do you leave in one piece??
2-remove and trim flywheel?
open to suggestions,thanks
torp

Check it for compression, and spark ( spin it over with the plug removed, making sure that the plug is grounded to the engine)!

Block off all the holes into the engine, and give it a good clean with a de-greaser, ( maybe better to remove the coil)

If it's a relatively new engine, it probably won't be necessary to disassemble it.

Next step is to remove the cooling vanes from the flywheel and fit an extended prop hub.
Remove the flywheel by loosening the nut holding it to the crank, ( just a turn or so) and holding the flywheel, give the nut a good hard smack with a copper hammer or similar, and it should come loose.
If it doesn't, take it to the mower shop, and they'll remove it in no time.

You can then break off the flywheel vanes with a small ajustable spanner or similar, and clean them up with a rotary grinder or even a file.
Always remove equal amounts of metal from each side the flywheel, so as not to upset the balance.
The prop hub will have to be made on a lathe, and if you're stuck, I may be able to help there, - just ask.

With the exhaust at the back, probably some sort of spacer or "standoffs" will be required, also possibly some exhaust modifications will be needed, but that can come later.

Dave (Zagnut) I believe is quite experienced in conversions, and machining, and will no doubt be able to offer heaps of good suggestions, but I am just down the road if you require a little help here and there.

PS, I'll drag out my engine and see if it's the same, and maybe I'll be able to see what actually has to be done to it.

When cleaning up the flywheel, put it on a prop balancer first and see how it balances as some maybe off balance to help make the engine smoother. Then after removing the fins, rebalance to the same position.

Thanks alot people,
will take you up on that offer thanks Willdo when i get to that stage.
Have removed flywheel and roughly trimmed off vanes.Will tidy up with dremel.
How do i remove those two steel lugs in the flywheel,see pic.?
Can i attack the surplus metal on the crankcase now ??
Note tapered shaft with key way,see pic.{flywheel end.}
cheers for your imput , torp.

sorry this is a bit off topic but relevant too.
Just a thought , this motor would be installed inverted with a pitts style add on muffler ??
would this power a 1/5th mustang T/F ?? Or a 1/4 bipe ??
Will build something to suit motor.Any recommendations ?
cheers torp

It's a little hard to advise over the net, but leave the final cleaning up of the flywheel till later.

You could possibly hacksaw off the tops of the steel pins to remove the starter pawls, but leave the rest of the pins, and if I'm making a prop hub for you, I can mill or turn them down flush and tap some bolt holes into them to hold the prop hub.

Careful handling the flywheel, - don't bang it around too much, as the magnets could lose their touch.

Carefully remove the fuel tank from the the crankcase, with a hacksaw etc. ( a grinder would take forever) being careful not to cut into the crankcase! also always think deeply before cutting any lugs off. ( these can be very useful sometimes).
I'll have a good look at the photos later, and perhaps examine the engine I have, (if its the same), and I'll be better able to advise you.

Not yet sure if it's a ball or needle roller crank, ( may need to see inside yet!) I think they might be needles, - one easy way to check is to push and pull the shaft and see if you get end play, if it has, it will be needles, and if it doesn't, it'll be ball.
If it has needles then I would have to make up some sort of thrust bearing for you.
- all this of course is if you'd want me to do it!
Don't worry, I won't charge anything like jobbing shop rates!
Keep in touch.

Cheers Willdo,
crank shaft has about 1.5mm end slop.
You mean trim off oil tank don,t you ??
Do i need to leave specific area's for an engine mount you think ??
If you need better pics let me know.
Can send on bit's to you as needed later, no sweat.
Will do bank transfer for instant payment !!!
appreciate your imput ton's.
What would you build around this motor ??
torp, vegas.

Don't know enough about aircraft to advise, just like to play around with engines.

Motorcycles were originally my passion, but now I'm not able to throw a leg over one, and these things interest me a lot, and they still fit in with my engineering trade.

I'd say that your engine has needle rollers, and so will possibly need to be stripped and fitted with a thrust bearing of some sort. I keep saying that I will check out the engine I have tucked away, but didn't find the time this weekend, - maybe tomorrow! , then I'll have more of an idea just what I'm talking about!

Please bear with me, I've got some other pressing business to deal with, and get it out of the way.

Sweet as Willdo, same here.
Just when ever , hasn't got a plane to go into yet.
Will post else where and see what the pro's come up with for a plane.
Am in no hurry at all.[8D]
Will need your expertise though!!!!!!
thanks torp.

Just off to bed now, - I checked my engine and it is indeed the same as your's, except that the cylinder and piston are destroyed through someone trying it without oil! - but now I'll be able to see what I have to do.
Yes, I did mean the oil tank .

TORP
Sent you some PM (private mail ) - check your inbox.

Same back to you , thanks torp

Finished grinding.
easy with dremel,messy though.
torp

That should lighten it a bit!.
Now there's the prop hub to sort out somehow.
Then mounting bracket, and the crankshaft thrust bearing, - all majors, but so far, looking good!

Hi all + Willdo,
have a distance of 7 7/16" from fire wall to back of prop hub to work too.
Has any one made a mount for this model poulan?
see pic.
Would a 4 tube set up bolted through existing crankcase holes to an alloy back plate and then fixed to a GPMG2000
isolation mount which is in turn bolted to the fire wall work OK ???
Have looked at modifing stock muffler.Std exhaust area 196mm2.
Block up factory holes , rip out internals and put one 16mm id or two 11mm id pipes
onto side or top of muffler.Same area as stock.
Work you think ???
cheers torp.[8D]

looks good! nice to see that you have access to all four case screws for mounting. i've done up a similar mount long time ago and was pretty easy. most important part is that your spacers/stand-offs have enough diameter at the ends so the whole thing will be rigid. at the case you're limited but at the mount end you can have a nice big diameter with lots of surface area.

my stand-offs were drilled and tapped on both ends. one end threaded onto 10mm longer case bolts and the 5mm alum plate mount went on the other end with countersunk flat-head screws. could also just forget the mount plate and use screws from the backside of the firewall into the stand-offs. don't bother with the rubber mount, just added weight IMO.


dave

Cheers Dave , rubber mount history.
What do you make your standoffs out of , alloy tube , solid ???
How about 1/2inch turned down {wildo} at ends for crankcase fitting ??
thankyou, torp

looking at your pics i see that you'll need a very, very long (3"-4" ?) mount for the exhaust to clear the firewall, 1/2" diameter might work but kinda scares me. i'm now thinking that a better solution is to make the stand-offs just long enough to clear the cylinder and carb and then mount them or the mountplate to an extended engine box made from plywood or a square alum extrusion like the wackerengines ryobi mount (see pic)

maybe take a look at the various stand-offs designed for the DA-50 and see how long and what diameter they are. would give a basic idea of what works safely


dave

Great idea Dave , standoffs would only be minimum 24mm this way.
What dia would you suggest Dave for this new lenght??
Can make a ply box on fire wall as you suggest see pic.
will c/sunk standoff screws into plate and have another 4 to blind nuts in ply box !!!!!!
Will talk to my engineering guru Wildo
thanks Dave , torp

FWIW from my reference file comments on DA50

The end 'footprints' are the largest dia. The balance of standoff is turned down to about 60% of that diameter.