smallplanes

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Does anyone know if a poulan 46cc engine will work good on a 1/4 scale extra and or edge? I have one that i want to convert. I do not want a cub or anything like it i want an aerobatic plane.



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smallplanes

fwman1

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Not exactly an acrobat, but the poulan 46 has enough beans to haul this 22 pound warbird with authority.

tkg

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Something with an 80" or so wing is abought right. The H-9 80" Cap 232 and the Midwest Cap and Extra come to mind.

zx32tt

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I've got one in a Texas Hurricane. 15.5 lbs , unlimitied vertical, 3D capable. The Poulan 46 has been very reliable so far.
Z

rpmrpm

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What is everybody using to start their poulan 46cc when still running on stock magneto, they seem to need a good fast spin to produce a spark.. Do you think Sullivan, Dynatron running off 24v could handle it. Or on page 91 of December AMA magazine Winnerrc.com has a Pacific Aero "SuperStarter" on sale? Any thoughts?

W5RA

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A friend of mine uses the spring starter off of a US Engines 42 cc on his Poulan 46. It will fit the smaller portion of the rear shaft of the Poulan without modification. He removed the chain oiler threads, they just slip on the shaft very tightly, and then cut down the portion of the shaft next to the engine to match the rear portion. This gives the spring starter more surface to ride on. You then have to fix the free end of the spring to your mount. It has worked very well for him.
I put a CH ignition on a Poulan 46 that I have, and it cranks very easily by hand. It is mounted on a Giant Stinger with an 80" wing. With a Master Airscrew 18-10 prop it turns near 8100 rpm.
Charlie W5RA

rpmrpm

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Thanks Charlie, I've already cut off my rear shaft so spring start is out, and I was trying to avoid the cost of CH Ignition conversion. Althought it would make starting much easier and by hand. I may have to put that back on the table as a option.
Mine is going into a 1/3 scale pitts s2c 71'' wing with the hopes of scale aerobatic flight on a Zinger Pro 18x8 with a smoke system. I just want a reliable starting system/method.

donalddresser

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I have a homelite 45 and am using the dynatron with two twelve volt gel cells wired together for 24 volts. This combination turns it over great.

rpmrpm

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Thank's donald. I'm leaning towards a ignition system now. Why spend $100 on starter set up? thats a good start to a ignition system that will help it start and run smoother.

donalddresser

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Oh but think of all the fun you will have lugging two batteries and the starter to the field.

rpmrpm

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Exactly!!!!!!

W5RA

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I hope these pictures come thru of my Stinger with the Poulan 46 which I flew yesterday for the first time with the Poulan. It will go vertical as long as you care to hold it there. 8300 rpm with MAS 18x10. I for got the canopy at home, but flew it anyway.
Charlie W5RA

smallplanes

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Where did you get the part to hold the carb. on the engine from? Are you using ch-ignition on the motor. The motor mount what does it say motor wiss that it fits? I need this stuff to cnvert mine.

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Smallplanes

W5RA

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The engine mount that I used is made by Hanger 9. It has precut slots to mount the engine. I had to enlarge the slots slightly for the engine bolts. I found the mount at a local hobby shop. It is probably the largest one made by Hanger 9. I forget what they said it was for.
The Carb mount I milled out myself from a piece of high temp plastic like material that I obtained from a local shop that sells industrial supplies. It was a piece that they had in their scrap bin. I took the rubber boot from the engine and put white out on the surface that goes toward the engine. I then placed it on a copy machine. I took the paper copy, cut around the outline and then glued it to the material with contact cement. Using that as a guide I milled a hole the size of the carb throat straight thru the material, in the center of the oval shape. I then milled the oval shape to a depth a little more than the height of the lip on the engine. I then drilled the screw holes and the diaphragm pump hole all the way thru the material. I drilled the carb mounting screw holes as to be able to use self threading mounting screws from a Ryobi Carb. I wanted the carb with the mixture needles up, so I drilled a hole where the carb pump hole sits on the adapter, about 1/4" deep and then I cross drilled a hole in the side of the adapter to intersect both of the pump holes. I then put a little JB weld in the face of the hole on the side.
After satisfying myself that everything lined up and would function properly, I then used JB weld to glue the adapter to the engine. It has worked out very well for me. I also had to trim a little off of the cooling fins around the adapter. The Ign. is a CH from a swap meet using a Hall sensor that I wired up myself.
Charlie W5RA

W5RA

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I looked on the Hanger 9 mount for a part # but didn't find one. Thunder Tiger makes a similar sized anti vibration mount, part # 3012. I have one and it looks as if it would work, but I haven't tried it yet. I have another Poulan 46 to put on a Bridi Bizzi Bee soon.
Charlie W5RA

smallplanes

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Thanks for the info on that. I am just getting differ oppions on doing a conversion because i want to do one my self. I am a cnc guy buy trade and i think i'm going to make me one on a cnc milling machine. The plastic you used was it nylon or UHMW? Thanks for the tips on how you made yours i think that will help me.


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smallplanes

W5RA

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I am not sure what the actual name of the adapter material is. A close friend of mine got it from Gulf Wandes corp. and was told that it was PVC and would withstand 2000 degrees F. It was about a foot square scrap piece I believe, and cost him about $12.00. It was about 1 3/4" thick. He gave me enough to make a couple of the spacers. It Machines very good with no melting and does not cling to the milling cutter. We are going to go back and try to get some more.

Charlie W5RA

smallplanes

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Ok thanks again on the info. I'm going to find out what the temp.range is on the nylon and the UHMW and i will make it out the best of the two. I might see about black delrin. Thanks again.


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smallplanes

smallplanes

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Could you send me a close up of the carb mount in a pic?


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smallplanes

W5RA

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Hi Smallplanes, I hope that these will help you. If you need more info you can email me direct if you like.
Charlie W5RA

W5RA

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Here are more Pics.
Charlie W5RA

smallplanes

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Thanks for the pic your a very helpful guy. The more i see your pics the more i can visualize what i want and need to do. So when you got it to fit you JB Welded the mount to the engine. O yes i called today and ordered a piece of teflon to make my mount out of. They say it will take heat up to and a little past 500 deg. that should be good enuff for the mount.

Thanks for the help
smallplanes

W5RA

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You are very welcome. I am happy to share any info that might be helpful. I have also gotten a lot of good ideas off of this forum. It is a great way to share ideas.
I had also thought of using teflon, as I have a piece, but it was not quite thick enough. I have never tried JB weld on teflon, it may not stick very well to it. On the material that I used, I drilled some tiny , shallow holes in the surface to be glued. That gives the JB weld a better grip on it. I also drilled some very shallow tiny holes in the aluminum horizontal surface that the adapter seats against, taking care not to drill any thru holes. I don't think that it will ever come off.
Good luck with yours!
Charlie W5RA

smallplanes

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I just got tru taking the saw apart . The more i looked at it one idea came to mind. You now how some of the glow engines have a clinch pin that holds the carb on. Like the tower hobbies motors well i think i'm going to make it where it holds on to the motor like that. I think i'm going to take a bolt cut the head off grind a radius in it to fit the piece that sticks of the motor. Then i will drill a hole tru the carb mount and stick the bolt in and tighten the mount to the motor. Not that the way you made it want work its that i'm not sure how it will hold on to the teflon. This way i might can take it off if i ever need to. Let me know what you think about this idea before i start. Thanks

Antique

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Nothing sticks to teflon and threads in it will strip easily...
Best material for a carb block is 3/8 thick G10 epoxy board..
Make a hole in it that matches the oval stub..take the brass pulse fitting out of the cylinder and tap the hole for a flathead screw..Drill through the block so you can use a flathead screw to hold it down..Put some epoxy on the oval, put the G10 block on it, and tighten the flathead screw....Drill all the way through the oval and the the G10 lengthwise with a #29 drill, and tap both sides for an 8-32 screw..put 8-32 screws into the block from both sides, and grind off flush on the inside..A carb block put on this way will NEVER loosen or leak...the block is tapped for 10-32 allen bolts that hold the carb on with the shaft parallel to the cylinder so the throttle servo connects directly to the carb with no bell crank...You will need to tap the back cover of the carb for a pressure fitting, and the case for another..connect the two fittings to get the crankcase pulse to the carb so it will pump......