Hello,

I just bought a Homelite weed wacker the other day and took it apart,cleaned it, and put it back together in just under an hour...The only mods i made for now were to re-size the back plate and hack-saw the fins off the fly wheel.I bolted on a nose cone so i could use my starter,put it on pressed the button started in about 3 seconds...so i still need to cut away the front plate some how which is part of the crank case,any ideas on which tool to use for this job?ive got a hack saw and dremel..so i need to know which parts to order and if wacker engines has them for the 25cc homelite...i will be trying out a 16x8 wooden prop first so i need their prop hub,im gunna get the machined fly-wheel also,the exhaust,and back mounting plate...anything else?i would rather wait on the carb for now as im trying to keep spending down...i plan to put this on a lanier stinger 1.20...any feed would be great..there's some pics below...thanks for help..dustin

I had access to a big metal band saw. My 25 was a short shaft and I drilled a hole in a short 2 X 4 to stick the shaft into. With the shaft down in the hole, I sawed the lower part of the flange from the crankcase.

On the backplate, You examine the part that goes closest to the crankcase. The new rear mount bolts over this existing back plate. You want to remove everything that sticks out beyond the crankcase on the sides. You want to make the back of it flat so the new plate will rest evenly on the engine.

You may have already ruined your flywheel as far as getting Wacker to machine it for you? I broke all the fins from my flywheel and cut them off flush with a air powered Die Grinder and a A11 carbide burr. I then balanced the flywheel using a High Point prop balancer.

There's a little hole above your exhaust outlet that will need to be tapped and plugged with a 10-32 set screw.

Mine has all Carr Precision parts but Wacker parts look pretty much the same.

Enjoy,

Jim

w8ye-i also have acess to a metal band saw i just forgot to mention that..i guess thats my best option..and to my understanding wacker sells pre-machined fly-wheels,i wasnt planing on sending them this one...thanks tho..dustin

Study all the pictures you can find on the Homelite weed whackers so you will know what to do. There are some pictures and instructions on the Wacker and Carr Precision site too.

Even after you saw the extra part of the air shroud from the crankcase, you will need to cut or file a little more off to make it look right.

Jim

take a look to my web is in spanish but you can find a lot of pictures
http://www.hpignitions.com.ar/reform...lite_25_cc.htm

I would get the bigger carb. It makes a big difference in the performance of that engine.

Jim

what is the std size carb in the homelite
the mitzi engine has a 10mil std
it also has ballbearing races for the cranks not needle races
it comes in at 25cc and makes 1.4 hp
has needle roller for the little end(gudgeon pin)
Also it has pinned rings so i am going to be widening the exhaust port a bit to try and get more out of it
How much have people found that the fins on the flywheel reduce the hp
the flywheel and the fan are on oppisite sides of the engine so you can take the fan off completely
will post some pics up soon
i think it will be good for what i am trying to do and that is make another r/c hovercraft

The carb that comes on the Homelite 25 from the factory is a 8mm. People normally put 11mm carbs on them for model use.

Enjoy,

Jim

Jim

In your earlier post you said to tap a hole 10x32 and fill it with a set screw. Can you get this set screw at Home Depot or is this something I should get from Auto Zone. Is a set screw a tapered screw and how should it be?

This hole luckily turns out to be the right size for the tap, so all you have to do is tap it. It is located right above the muffler on the cylinder. Just be careful that the tap does not go in too far and mar the cylinder inside. Any good hardware store should have a set screw you can use. You want a short one with no head/ just a hole for an Allen key. Use some Loctite or thick super glue on the threads.

AV8TOR

Jim,a standard 10-32 machine screw can be used also.If it is too long,cut it off with a dremel tool and file flat to the surrounding surface with a good file.This can be done after you have installed it but I highly recommend doing it before hand as to not weaken the sealing qualties of the loctite with the build up of heat due to cutting.After you have figured out the correct length that you need ,cut it to length and then file the cut end flat.Next use a narrow cut off wheel to cut yourself a slot in the end of the machine screw.Use a 10-32 nut to re-thread the slotted end just to make sure there are no burrs any where which might affect the installation process.After you have threaded the hole in the side of the cylinder,make sure you clean it out well with lacquer thinner to degrease it and to remove any foreign particles.Q-tips work really well here for this particular job.Now apply the Loctite to the screw and use a small slotted screw driver to screw in the screw using the newly created slot in the end of screw body.Works like a charm for me.Watch your compression go way oh up after your done.

Thanks for all this help guy's. I am off to home depot to buy a 10-32 tap and a couple of set screws.

Thanks

Moderator Jim.....your conversion looks too pretty!!! LOL

Other Jim.....I like your pics....the engine is nice and dirty and will probably run like stink!

Just my 2 cents!,
Tom

Mine are ugly, but really scream!

Here are some examples of my little uglies....

Tom,
Your engines look good to me. Mine is a 30 that I bought new as a short block for 60 something dollars. The flywheel is from some unknown chainsaw. It runs pretty good with the 18-8 Dynathrust shown, it runs 7500. I have another 30 that looks much neater. It has a MAS Classic 18-8 and it turns over 8,000. It has C-H syncro spark ignition. I sold my Homelite 25. It looked exactly like the 30 except it had a Homlite 25 flywheel. The flywheel was shaved on it too.

Enjoy,

Jim

Uptade...

well i got all the excess metal cut off and grinded smoothly...i machined the fly wheel on my metal lathe and cut the fins off with the metal band saw,,runs like a champ now..i just need the prop hub and exhaust from wacker engines then the 80" laniner stinger and it should be in the air...see pics..

P.s...i didnt have a little hole above my exhaust...there wasnt one all ready plugged either..is this odd?

Some didn't have the exhaust hole. Some old ones and some PRO models.

The muffler you have on your engine should be very good to take it apart and remove the baffle and screen. Then braze in a couple of 1/2 steel tubes. At least don't throw the box muffler away.

Enjoy,

Jim

Hey guys.....I have a 25cc, it does have the little port above the exhaust. What is it? is it a pulse port? can I tap into it to hook up a pump? Or is it just some kind compression relief thing?

Its a compression release thingie, plug it up and gain power. Its a hot exhaust coming out and would sorta melt any pump you hooked it to.

The compression release is only on a few Homelites. usually the electric start models. It is above the intake port. It looks like a pipe plug but it has like a schrader valve in the center of it. Just remove the valve and put a pipe plug in the hole.

The hole above the exhaust port corresponds with a hole in the muffler. Muffler pressure is to force some spent exhaust gases back into the cylinder? Most Homelite weedies have this hole.

Enjoy,

Jim