rcglert

Hello all,

I have two 33cc Homelite chainsaws that I am about to tear into. Does anyone have experience with these and therefore some insight into what I am about to tackle? I am not new to converting, but I figure it is better to look before I leap.

Thanx,
Tom

av8tor1977

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Do a search here, (remember set your display for more than 30 days), and you will find a lot of info on that engine. I haven't done one myself, but apparently it is a very good engine to convert.

Good luck,
AV8TOR

blackbaron

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These are great conversion engines and have awsome power. Check out my website for detailed info on them including performance specs

www.bcmaengines.com

Prop Nut

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I have a couple of the 33cc homelite Ranger chainsaw engines, they are great, huge power, easy start and great sound. Not a hard conversion, but not simple either. You will have to cut off the tail shaft ( I did to shorten the depth of the engine) I made motor mounts that bolted through the cylander head bolts. The prop spacer is a screw on type like the US41 and Quadra50. (5/16 threads) Stock carb is great, even the muffler is good, if bulky. Cant remember much else, I flew my Balsa USA Fokker DVIII all summer on one, the next will be for a Balsa USA 1/4 sopwith pup.

Tmoth4

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Hi,

I have converted a few of those and I have one in my BUSA DR-1, and I love it! The performance is excellent. Go to this link and look for a tutorial I have on my club's website about that engine. I'm now working on a WW2 twin that I'm planning to use the other two 33s in.

http://www.lcrc.org/Tony_page.htm

Jim

J-3

After reading all of the threads on this engine, it looks like this one is a keeper. My local Cummins Industrial Tools store has about 10 of these chain saws (Bandit 14 in) that are factory reconditioned for $79.99 each. After watching the tutorial that Tmoth4 put together I am ready to go buy one of these! Thanks to all of the contributors in these threads and Tmoth4 for a great "how to"......Brian

Gofli

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Hi guys,

Got a quick question...are all of the currently sold or ebay 33 or 38cc saws, bandit, ranger, wild thing, etc, the powerstroke engines that blackbaron uses in his conversions? His site mentions some that did not perform quite as well...it just seems like such a stab in the dark to go buy something that may not be what you are actually looking for. All my current project engines have been freebies

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The only one I heard anything negative about was a MAC38 magneto style that had to be spun up pretty fast to get a spark.

Some of the engines you mention are Poulans, some are Homelites and some are Macs. Then there are the Macs that are Poulans etc. There are older and newer versions of each of these.

I have two Homelite 45 timberman saws. One is red with a black top. The other is all red. The engines are not the same.

The Poulans have gone through changes in recent years, some the bearings are different and some you will notice the head fins are different.

Enjoy,

Jim

J-3

I just picked up the 14" Bandit and have started it once. I have not taken it apart yet. How do I tell if it is really a Homelite engine??
Thanks...Brian

Gofli

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My search today turned up 2 good finds.. a 33cc homelite powerstroke saw, used but runs perfectly for 65 bucks from a small engine service/dealer that I had not known was near me. He was very receptive and thought it was neat I was using them for planes...unlike the blank stares I get from the large local Stihl/Echo dealer folks. They never have anything used anyway. The 2nd is a new FL20 (actually 25cc apparantly) trimmer from Home Depot that will replace the 18cc featherlite I've been working on, but not happy with the performance.

captinjohn

[quote]ORIGINAL: Gofli
. He was very receptive and thought it was neat I was using them for planes...unlike the blank stares I get from the large local Stihl/Echo dealer folks. They never have anything used anyway.
I know what you mean by the blank stares!!!! Capt,n

Gofli

My Feedback: (7)

Hi guys,


This durn engine is trying to kill me. All I have done is remove it from the saw, remove the chain oiler, cut down the crank, make some mounting plates, reassemble the engine. I found out the carb cant be turned around without a slight mod to the adapter, because the thru-hole does not line up with the carb. I routed a small trough to the pulse hole location on the carb. The plane its going in is uncowled, so this is how I hope to leave it and be able to adjust the needles while its running. I trimmed the excess plastic off the adapter, and per tmoth's power point thing I closed off the small tube. Now, it ran great in the saw, but something is gone wierd, cause no matter where the needles are, I cant get it to run at anything much past idle. It wont quit, but seems to bog down when you open the throttle. I'm thinking theres an air leak somewhere, but for the moment I am completely baffled as to where it is. I read somewhere here to start with both needles 2 turns out? is that right? It will idle all day


Thanks,
David

Tmoth4

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1-1/2 to 2 turns is about right as a starting point. You still might have an air leak somewhere. Those carbs can turn slightly while you're tightening them down, and the gasket can move too, so i would check that some more.

Gofli

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I think I found the issue, I used high temp silicone to seal the cyl/carb adapter joint because the original gasket broke while taking it apart, and with closer examination, there was a high spot on the cyl's flange, apparantly made when the holes were tapped. This caused the adapter to rock a little when sitting on the flange..may have caused an air leak. I flattened that some with sandpaper, and made a gasket. Will run it later when it warms up some outside...fingers crossed

Gofli

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Nope,

Still doing the same thing...I tried switching carbs and that didnt help either....I am baffled.

Tmoth4

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You might check the seal on the crankcase. You might have jarred the crankcase halves when removing the engine from the plastic saw housing.

Jim

blackbaron

My Feedback: (92)

Check and make sure you didn't get any silicone sealant in the pulse hole pathway. Also take your carb apart and make sure there is no junk in it that could have come from somewhere. If all else fails switch out your carb.

Gofli

My Feedback: (7)

Problem solved!!

I dunno what or if I did to cause it, but the coil went bad on the silly thing. I had tried 3 different carbs, sealed the case at least twice, and even tried it without the muffler, or a prop on it....nothing changed. This led to taking the plug out( I had tried several plugs too) and watching for a spark. I did see it at slow speeds, but it seemed to diminish when spun over very fast. I wasnt sure if this was just me not being able to hold it against the case as well, or if it was just that I couldnt see it then, but I had a good coil on a junk trimmer engine, and I figgered it was worht a shot to try and mount that on here. I could only use one bolt, and it took some filing and fiddling, but I got a better run out of it, allthough the timing was off. I went out and found another saw cheap, and swapped coils....now it runs great!!

Thanks again for all the help guys

David

Gofli

My Feedback: (7)

Flew the Lazy Ace with the 33cc yesterday, and had a slight problem...it runs great on the ground, but in the air goes really erratic, sounding almost like the throttle linkage has come loose. It would rev and slow, rev and slow, nearly quit, only to rev again. This seemed to almost completely go away if reduced to about half throttle. I landed and played with the carb a couple times, thinking I was just too lean, but it didnt help. I am gonna put a velocity stack on it, and maybe plumb the diaphram vent inside the fuse....one of those should cure it, I think

davewallace

My Feedback: (29)

The vent hose on the regulator port should fix it.

Dave

subarubrat

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I see a few have run the 18-10 prop, I think that BCMA has the 18-10 and the 20-8 listed. Has anyone tried a 18-12?

blackbaron

My Feedback: (92)

I have not tried that prop but I running an 18 X 10 scimitar wood Master Airscrew prop and I am getting some wicked rpm and thrust on my 33cc engine. I modded it out with a bigger Walbro WT644 carb, Oversized Expansion muffler, and Electronic Ignition and I am turing almost 7800 rpm on it.