For price per pound...no...but to end up with a no battery to charge...no switch harness no other parts to go bad. Also with right coil ect it may be lighter than electonic ignition. I do think $50 would be a fair price. Just my thoughts. Capt,n

That is true. If the price was $50 it may be worth it. But on EI the engine, even with a battery would be a little lighter. They are under 3 lbs with the EI unit. It is just a matter of preference. I just wouldn't do it to save 4 oz. The stock machined flywheel is only 8oz. I do not know for sure but from what I heard his are 4oz or so. Not a big difference for $50 or whatever he charges. Plus I have run many on EI and the start like a dream. Run smooth and idle very low. They basicly run as good or a little better than on mag, but are 9oz lighter. Just my opinion, but if you want a mag engine. The stock flywheel is just fine. They still flip start easy as pie when warm. Even cold they will flip start. Just takes a few flips

Scott

poco242: What is your choice on the Toro25. Stock flywheel ignition or EI with battery powr? Thanks Capt,n[:-]

It all depends on the plane. I have one in a Sig Rascal 110. It is a mag engine. I am putting one in a Harrier 3D. It will be EI for weight. They both run great. Magneto is less trouble and less to go wrong, but if weight is an issue, then EI. I think it all depends on the application. They both have thier pros and cons.

You have me thinking now, should I get the 25 GT with mag or EI??? I want to be able to flip start the engine and not buy another starter. Is it worth the extra $100.00 for the EI? Besides weight, what other benifit do you get with EI?

Hey POCO why don't you try one of your toro engines with my or AV8TOR's fuel mix with your igniton and also try it with the glow plug adapter and let us know your results, I'm using right now a weadeater 25 with the glow plug set up an I'm getting 8300 RPM's on an APC 16X8 prop, it hand start very easy and the total weight of the engine with prop, spinner,engine mount, vibration isolators and muffler is 2Lbs 2oz, it would be interesting to see what your final weight without the flywheel and coil woul end being and also the kind of RPM's you would be getting from these two setups

Like I said, warm they flip start good on magneto, but cold is another story. I have flip started them cold but it is alot more work so I usually use a starter. Hobby People has the Magnum 180 starter for $30. It starts them great. One other nice thing about EI is the responce is much quicker because of the lower rotating mass without a flywheel.

The Toro and the Featherlite weedeater engine are about the same weight. I am sure on glow the Toro would be just as light. I have not tried one on glow. The numbers you are saying on the weekeater 25 is somthing I have never seen. I have converted about 25 of them and the best I ever got on gas was about 7600 on the APC 16x8. They are about the lowest powered 25 I have done. The homey on gas beats them, but is much heavier. Also I have heard on glow they need onboard glow to run well. Never did it so I am not sure. I did run a 42cc Poulan on glow. The power was the same as gas on that engine. The carbs don't hold up well to the alchohol either. Plus the fuel economy is less because it takes more alchohol to run an engine than gas. The mix I was using was pure methenol at 5% oil and 5% nitro.

Aero nut: What model weedeater engine are you using to get this 8300 RPM on a 16x8 prop? Thanks Capt,n

Its the weadeater featherlight PLUS, but I did modify the exhaust and intake duration timing from 120 to 135 for intake and 130 to 145 for exhaust and opened the venturi from the stock carb to about .400"

Poco did you ever modify the duration degrees on your weadeaters????

I did no modifications to them. I am sure that is why I have the lower numbers. I do modify the Toro's. That is good info to have. Maybe there is hope for the FL 25

YEA! mine was giving only around 7200 rpm's before the mods now I'm very pleased with the 8300

Whats the best resistor plug/cap/wire setup? I have finally ran my motor in the plane.. (toro25 ) while checking things out and am having a definite interference problem. I see from reading that I may need to change my metal cable throttle linkage to a plastic one?...But would appreciate any help as to the best plug setup I could rely on....

thanks for any help, I have gotten quite a bit of info here already.
foodstick

Modifications are a must on the Poulan 25cc. But the numbers you are getting are very good. Close to the numbers the toro 25 will do.

The plug is allready a resistor plug in the Toro 25. The throttle linkage may be the entire cause of the problem. Go plastic and it should be OK. I have sold over 80 of the 25's and there has been no report of interference that I can think of.

Thanks alot for the info! I just logged on and saw your post...I will swap the linkage out tomorrow..
Thanks again

Aeronut, I also have seen 8000+RPM from a modified Poulan weedeater, Model FL-25. I now have a second one and want to see if it duplicates the first. Both were new engines I got off of ---- and both had the plastic snout for the pipe broken off and were never run. I like them being pretty compact and they seem to run pretty smooth. I got the 8k with a M/A 16x8 Classic prop.
spring is here and I will be testing the second one. I modified them quite a bit also. I am working on a lighter and hopefully better muffler, when I get back to it. I also used a different 2 needle carb, of course.

What type of mods did you do. The FL25 will not do near that with just a larger carb and muffler. The one thing I do not like about it is the bad mag mount. It is hard to make it look decent.

Hi poco242!!! The mods that I did was to increase the duration timings on both the exhaust and admission they where very low 120 degrees for admission and 130 for exhaust; so Iwent and inceased them to 135 for the admission and 145 degrees for the exhaust; I use an APC 16x8 prop and get 8300-8400 rpm's.
Have you tried your toro on the GAS/GLOW version yet??? I'm very interested to see what kind of numbers you get on this setting

I won't be doing the ga/glow test on the Toro. I am down to just 10 engines left unsold so I will be out very soon. I do have some of the 18cc engines I would like to try that on. Thsy would be ery light ligh that.

Hi Poco,
I opened up the Intake the most, and the exhaust also. I did these after experimenting with 2 -21cc Poulans which I got up to 7k with a 16x8. they would be best with a bit smaller prop. The 25cc Poulan can handle the 16x8 better, I got 8200RPM, and it runs smooth and reliable. The first thing to go was the single needle carb, it was a Kapon. The mag mount is a problem as you say, I ground and blended in the bottom as much as possible for looks, but still kept it rigid, then I added an Aluminul brace to the top and bolted it to the top head cooling fin. Its not bad looking at all. I just got done with a new roof on the house, thank God thats done, so now I am trying to catch up with my hobby projects. Working on 4 aircraft in various stages of design and construction, definitely not bored, will get to testing No. 2 Poulan 25cc next. If the second is as good as the first, I did it right. The Poulans I have HAD very small ports, but not now.

Hi guys. I bought 4 of the Toro 25cc motors here on RCU. Unfortunately they are the ones with the thin cast. They also have the 2bbl carb and reed valves. I have carefully read through the 10 pages of posts and I believe my only worthwhile options on modifications would be to open up the transfer channel under the reed valve covers. I guess I should leave everything else alone.
For prop hub adapters I am going to machine the flywheel's inner cast round and thread the end for 8mm and then green loctite/set screw it on. (or maybe buy some from Scott!). Not sure if it was a wise purchase or not. I'm going to put one on a China Model Products FW190 1.20 size ARF. Any new ideas, tips on this engine??

Tnx
Tom

You say you have the thin cast engines. They have the opening in the back of the fins with a round embossment for a compression release or somthing correct. If so then they are the thin ones. But fear not. They will make just as much power as the other kind. You can open the intake up some. Go side to side some, and down more. You end up with about a 3/8" to 1/2" square intake port. Plenty big. The exahust can be opened a little but does not need it. Deepen the transfer ports, plug the reed valves with alumiweld, or JB weld, or we make nice replacement covers for them now. Then were the transfer ports go through to the bottom of the cyl, open that up a little and blend it in. DO all this and you will get 8000 + on an APC 16x8. I have had as high as 8450 on that exact engine new. Actually that model is the one that made the most power. If you do grind through the side on the intake, a little JB weld will fix it and hold forever

Thanks Scott for the update. Yes my motors have the opening in the back of the fins & embossment. I will do the additional machining to the intake. I love grinding away on things! So much aluminum so little time... I'll post my rpm readings as soon as I get one of them running.
Thanks again
Tp