w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I was at the store today and the shelf was empty.

I looked around for flywheels etc but didn't see any.

All kinds of two stroke non resistor spark plugs.

They had a few carbs for $12.95. Didn't look too closely. Most were just weed whacker carbs. Not too many chain saw ones. Thet have had better selections. I got a 11mm walbro there a couple yrs ago. Saw one today but it only had one needle valve.

Those 2400 engines that you guys bought must be reverse rotation? Doesn't make much difference if you are going to run a battery ignition. But a flywheel will most likely have the wrong timing position unless you take out the key and set the flywheel for CCW rotation.

Jim

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Those left hand threads could be a REAL problem. We'll see....
AV8TOR

oldtimer2

My Feedback: (19)

Hi Capt. I was just looking under the shroud of the Mc. The Motor Is still in the blower. The crankcase part I can see looks the same. I will keep an eye on this thread to see ifany one comes up with a solution to the L/H thread issue.Maybe some one can build a prop hub with L/H threads next to the flywheel and R/H on the prop end.

Later George

oldtimer2

My Feedback: (19)

Hi Capt. I was just looking under the shroud of the Mc. The Motor Is still in the blower. The crankcase part I can see looks the same. I will keep an eye on this thread to see ifany one comes up with a solution to the L/H thread issue.Maybe some one can build a prop hub with L/H threads next to the flywheel and R/H on the prop end.

Later George

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

That would be easily done. The problem is, the engine power pulses act like an air hammer wrench, and will loosen the left hand thread every time. I'm not sure yet how to get around this, but I'll try to think of something when my engine arrives.

I'm not sure, but I think it was MikenLapaz that had some serious problems and horror stories about this very problem. There are Loctite products that can glue a nut on like it was welded, but I sure would be nervous wondering when the prop was going to fly off and try to eat me. I don't know.... Maybe a wide flange prop adapter, drilled for some drift pins to keep it from trying to turn itself off, or something...

AV8TOR

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Left hand prop hub threads are only a problem if the hub is used as the flywheel retainer..If the flywheel is held on with a nut and a separate hub is bolted to the flywheel for the prop there is no problem...
Big Quadra engines use the hub to hold the flywheel on, but the thread is right handed and there are two 1/4x28 button head screws 180 degrees apart at the edge of the hub to keep it from rotating..
My G62 lite conversions use the prop hub to hold the other part on the taper, but green Loctite 680 is on the taper and also on the threads...It takes at least 400F to even loosen the Loctite..Even without Loctite the hub gets tighter with normal rotation, and with EI there is no backfire to loosen the hub....

oldtimer2

My Feedback: (19)

Maybe you could drill and tap all the way through the prop hub near the flywheel and install a couple of socket cup set screws,just for added friction? You can probably tell I'm no machinest.

George

captinjohn

Well it looks like I am going to get whatever threads on the left-hand threads and go from there. It has a taper on shaft and a key-way so a hub made right will not twist off from a back fire or power impulse. Like RCIGN1 says loctite will hold too. Its has to be possible. Got to get a nut from echo that is left hand threads. Now I know why the deal was so good![] Will fix it somehow Capt,n

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Nut 8mm (L-H) equals .315"
Item #11
Part number 90051200008

flipflop

You guys are panicking WAY too fast. Thread size of the crank is 8mm.x1.25 pitch LH, intake and exhaust are 5mm. mounting bolts are 4mm.

captinjohn

The flywheel is part# 15680144731 item no 16 HC-2400/2410 Type 1 Things are looking better! flipflop is right! Capt,n

captinjohn

Parts list http://www.echo-usa.com/oot/docs/HC2...0T1_030502.pdf Capt,n

buck1856

My Feedback: (49)

heres one set up for glow that i just did.i havent shaved the 2 posts off yet for the mag.the carb insulator i shaved with my belt sander,then turned the carb for a straight shot.redrilled and tapped holes and used a dremel to make the pulse channel continue around to the proper position.havent ordred a lambert muffler yet and might not.weight is 3lbs 2ozs as in pic.

oldtimer2

My Feedback: (19)

Hi, Did you make the prop adapter? If not where did you get it? I am sure several people would be interested in buying one


Thanks George

captinjohn

Buck1856: Does the engine end of the adapter have a matching taper to crank? Also do you use a set screw that locks into where the key-way was or a flat? Nice Looking job for sure! Thanks Capt,n

captinjohn

I found a flyweel that fits. Here is a photo. Capt,n

buck1856

My Feedback: (49)

the prop hub was made by J. Romine who sells the homys and ryobis here on RCU.Ill check and make sure he still has the same email addy since the last time i talked to him.Look in the gas engines for sale he might have somthing for sale there,if not ill call him before i post his email addy.As for the taper, yes he put a taper in both of mine he made.i also have one made for a poulan 42 that scott did wich doesnt have a taper i believe,youll have to ask him.so far theres no set screw or anything i was just going to use some locktite.I think it was aviator that said when the engines running it should tighten the hub anyway or keep it tight.when my batterys charge up on my camera il post a couple more pics.

flipflop

Here's my carb adapter.

captinjohn

I plan to cut the center of the flywheel out and use it for my adapter to bolt too...using the part of the crankshaft to center the adapter. It will bolt too hub with a couple of short bolts. I think the adapter is already availible...you just have to adapt it to your flywheel or cut down flywheel. I will use battery ignition. I hope this all works! Capt,n UPDATE: This added photo (unknown engine photo) should help explain!

captinjohn

flipflop: What do you think would be a good carb... ect... for this Echo engine? Thanks John[:-]

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Capn, I use an 11mm carb on my Echos with good results. Also, give a thought to using the gas/glow system. Makes a really nice light setup with these already light Echo engines. I'm running one this way in a 72" wingspan 1.40 size Katana, and another in a 1/4 scale Fokker Triplane. They both fly great, and I didn't have to add any weight to get the c.g.'s right on.

AV8TOR

(Still no new Echo here... maybe Tuesday!)

flipflop

A little milling this morning.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Looks nice!

Capn John, I found a couple of pics of one of my Echo/Kioritz engines on gas/glow. It has a bracket on front because at first it used to have electronic ignition. The aluminum angle mounts look heavy, but I was surprised when I weighed them that they weigh a couple of ounces less than the glass fiber mounts that came with the plane. I used them to more easily adjust the thrust angles. I normally just use long bolts and standoffs if the engine can't be mounted directly to the firewall.

AV8TOR

captinjohn

av8tor: Good photos. Is the black line from front of engine a pressure tap to send pulse to carb? Also is the exhaust mounted to the fire wall so vibes do not cause failer at engine attachment? Did you get another Echo yet? Thanks Capt,n

flyrc100

My Feedback: (131)

One of those sold for 58 bucks on Ebay today.