MSS999

Just received my Briggs 34cc four stroke after conversion by Scott and Mark at Brillelli. Thought I'd share a few pics.

This is my second conversion by Brillelli - the first being the 25ccToro conversion some time ago - and as expected the workmanship is absolutely top class.

Take a look at that CNC machined backplate!

I requested the original muffler and carb as was hence the intake cleaner plastics still on the carb.

I see quite a lot of posts from people asking for information on Brilelli. From my perspective I am a few thousand miles away yet feel like I've known these guys my whole life. So if anyone out there is still in doubt, buy a Brilelli - the experience will make you want to keep going beck to them!

Maninder S.

Ok, can't upload the pics as the popup window for uploading keeps getting blocked by my SP. If anyone wants to the see the pics send me an email. Or, if someone is willing to put them on in a reply to this post I will happily email the originals.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Maninder,

Send them to me at [email protected] and I'll post the for you. I to am a Brillelli believer and have 2 of their quality engines.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Here are the pictures of the Briggs 34.

davewallace

My Feedback: (29)

Maninder,
Nice looking conversion. I'm looking forward to seeing the performance figures.

Cheers, Dave

Bob Laine

My Feedback: (91)

What is the weight as pictured, And cun it be flown "inverted"? Bob

Scott Ellingson

My Feedback: (146)

I can't remeber the weigt. I know it is over 5lbs. He is going into a WWI Biplane I think and it needs lots of nose weight. It can not be mounted inverted, but can fly inverted for a short time. It is a good engine for specialized applications like that. Not good for the avarage plane. I bet it will sound sweet though

MSS999

The engine weighs 5lb 5Oz on my simple kitchen scale. It will eventually go into a WW1 Eindecker lookalike by Flair Models in the UK. Wingspan will be 100inches, Wing area 1700Sq inches, total weight around 16lb.

The plane is called the Hannibal and is described on the follwoing URL but mine will have the wingspan increased to 100 inches.

http://www.flairmodels.co.uk/Aircraf...coutframes.htm

Maninder.

Bob Laine

My Feedback: (91)

poco242..... I'll bet it sounds great. Being able to fly inverted is not reall all that critical. It would be a perfect engine for something like Spads et that have their engines mounted lower on the fuselage. I'll bet it won't be logn before the "inverted" problem will be worked out with four strokes. And, you can bet that Berillelli will be at the forefront. Keep us posted on your build. Bob

Flight Risk

My Feedback: (1)

It looks like Brillelli did it right. I'm trying to see in your photos if the carb adapter was modified to rotate the carb. Was any work done to help the performance? The Hannibal should be a good fit for this engine. I have this engine ready and waiting for me to build a plane for it. Let us know if you get some RPM numbers.
I have found that if I let mine run for a number of minutes without moving it around it seems that it starts grinding and almost locks up. The 3 ounces of oil hardly seems adequate. I think under normal operation the oil would get sloshed around enough. Has anyone else noticed this.

Rod S

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

Hi, You can mount and run this engine inverted. It has a 360 degree oil sump. You will however need to mount the carb right side up as there is a performance loss for some reason (can anyone clue me into why?). I ran mine for an hour today with no problems. I have had this engine mounted in my Fokker DVII 1/4 scale (mounted right side up) and now in my 1/4 scale Bud Nosen Aeronca (mounted inverted). I am useing a wood scimitar 20-8 @ 5200RPM and a APC scimitar 18-8 @ 6400RPM. Here are some pictures of my conversion of this engine and a movie of the DVII in flight with the Briggs. I havent had a chance to get the Aeronca on film yet but I will try tommorrow if anyone is interested.

Another note, you can replace the stock carb spacer (which is really wide and deep) with a spacer from a Ryobi 4-stroke engine. I purchased several of these from JacksSmallEngine.com for about 3.00 each. They are half the depth. You will need to trim some of the spacer at the ends to fit but it works just fine. I can post pictures of this also if anyone requests.

It is great to see more Briggs and Strattons out there.

http://media.putfile.com/Fokker-DVII-Sunny-Day

http://media.putfile.com/Fokker-in-flight

MSS999

prop Nut,

Could you post a picture of the carb spacer please?

Also, a few other questions. When turned by hand, my engine has a relatively low compression. I guess it has a decompression mechanism for starting. Is your engine the same?

Have you worked out the best way of starting this engine? Do you use a starter or jut flip etc. etc.

Thanks in advance.

Maninder.

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

When I get a chance I will take a picture of the spacer, but I will answer your other questions real quick.....if I can. Mine also seems to have low compression, I choke the engine until I have gas running out the carb, I use a starter. I have flip started it before but its not reliable. I have a buddy that converted a Honda GX31 (very simular motors) and his will flipstart using electronic ignition so I am sure this would to if I wanted to spend the money on EI. I flew the Aeronca again today, flew great at 18lb (I re weighed it after adding tail weight, cowl, etc). Plenty of power and lifts off the ground pretty quick. It flies very very scale (but not underpowered) and sounds awesome.

David

jtisch

Well, I am well on my way to converting a 34cc and a 40 cc B&S four stroke. Finally got the flywheels off, had them shaved down(Thanks Cecil!), cut off the weedwhacker mounting flanges,got my Wacker prop hubs and today I bought some 1/4 in. aluminum from Boeing Surplus to make the mounting backplate. If I may,however, I would like to ask a few questions.

1. Carb spacer. It sounds like the Ryobi spacer would be short enough to get the carb inside my Fokker DVII. Does anyone know the part # for that spacer? The local Ag shop didn't want to dig through all of their parts boxesto find one. Or better yet , is anyone in the R/ C biz making an even shorter spacer?

2. I took the carb spring out of one of the Walbro carbs. In another reply to this subject it said not to do that. Reasons why? I hate to have that contstant load on throttle servo.

3. This may be a stupid question, but , here goes. The prop hub is threaded the same direction as prop rotation and there is no key. Is there any problem with the hub coming loose when starting the engine?

Thanks for any and all replies. I hope to test run one or both of the engines (with the stock carb spacers) as soon as I make the backplates and if our weather stays this nice.

J

Scott Ellingson

My Feedback: (146)

With the spring removed from that barrel type carb, it will not work correclty anymore. The way they are built, the spring is needed. You will need a new carb.

If you use some good locktite or JB weld on the threads of the prop hub, it will not come loose. When the engine fires and runs, it is the correct direction to keep it tight. Just starting can loosen it, but if you do like I said with the locktite or JB weld, it will stay on. Also you can drill a couple holes in the side of the hub and run set screws.

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

I dont have the numbers on the prop spacer, you can look it up yourself on Jackssmallengines.com , a pretty good web site, then of course you can order from them also. This allowed me to keep my carb inside the cowl on my DVII also.

I took MOST of the carb springs off mine also. You need just enough tentsion to push the barrel out from the carb (keeps the needed at the proper spacing) Cut both hooks off the ends and then take loops off one at a time until you get a good tentsion.

I usually tighten my prop hubs with the prop on, holding onto the flywheel with a rag, this "strong arm" system has worked fine for me, never had a prop spin off using a starter.

Word to the wise on the DVII though, KEEP IT LIGHT! This engine is no powerhouse and most of the Balsa USA DVII's are comming out 20lb or higher (mine is 21 and I built it light as possible). Others tell me that thiers are 17-18 pounds with a G26 (remember, a G26 is 2 1/2 pounds lighter) I had a couple of scary flights when high humidity seemed to rob my Briggs of most of its power. The plane took off but it wallowed in the air....got it back to the field with no problems though. The DVII is increadibly forgiving.

jtisch

Wow! you guys are fast. thanks for the advice.

J

subarubrat

My Feedback: (1)

Having seen the two, plus a few others, fugi etc. I have to say the Honda would be a better choice. That said; It is good to see more 4 stroke gassers out there. Once you experience one it becomes a religion.

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

I have to agree, the honda is a better motor.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

The engines have a little extra cam on the camshaft gear to slightly open the exhaust valve for easier starting...It can be disabled so the compression is better at starting speeds...

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

The Briggs does or the Honda does? (Extra cam)

subarubrat

My Feedback: (1)

The 31cc honda does, and cannot be flip started unless you remove it. I should do that on mine, I have just been lazy. The 35cc flips easier than most engines including those with EI.

jtisch

Well, I have my backplate mounts made up, and drilled out my test stand for the engine and then mounted it (the 40cc), then went to go look for a prop. To my chagrin I found that all the suitable props I had already reamed out to fit my Tartans (1/2 in.dia. hole). So I will get some more props and give it a try soon. I plan to start out with stock muffler, carb, magneto ignition(except for the shaved down flywheel) and than go from there.

J

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Man, at the price of props, I would fire up the lathe and make some bushings!!

AV8TOR

jtisch

I looked around a little more and found a 20x6 prop so I put it on the 40cc and fired it up. Not too bad! idles at @1900 and topped out at 6200 rpm. This is with an untouched carb and the stock muffler on. If I can get 6500+ by monkeying around with the muffler I think it will fly my DVII satisfactorily.[8D]

jtisch

Prop nut. I hear ya! The fuse is framed(and has been for much too long!) and is really light. The wings aren't SUPER light, but they aren't lead surfboards either. I think I can it in at @20 lbs to start,even with a 5+lb engine. I have a Fokker EV/DVIII that flies at 17 lbs(2and 1/2 lbs of which are lead) with a Tartan engine(24cc glow) so I think this 40cc gasser will be fine. Adding lead to models really annoys me so why not put in 5 lbs of motor instead of 3 lbs of motor and 2 lbs of lead? One thing nice about this engine is that I will be able to test fly it without all the paint and/or detail on it to check performance and not have to worry about getting oily exhaust all over it before I finish it up.

Thanks again for your advice,

J