CRAFTSMAN GAS CHAIN SAW engine 2.3 C.I. Is this worth it to play with for an ugly Spad, looks like alot of cutting looks like the engine was built into the saw not the saw built around the engine. Looking to make a cheap Gasser I had this in the shop already Thanks

look for the gas conversion forum there are of people there that do that sort of thing and there is alot of information there as well.

Where is the reed plate?

The reed goes over that gasket I removed that and the carb for cleaning

I'm sure the engine will convert just fine.

There are engines that weigh less and are more compact out there. You may can use some of your conversion parts on one of the newer engines when you come across one.

Made a boo boo got alittle agressive with the saws all didnt realize I cut into the oil compartment I guess I'm done here with this one its my first so ....... I was a confused when I looked at it didnt think it got oil that way all well I'm learning........................

You didn't mess it up yet. Keep cutting all that metal on the oil compartment away.

You will end up with just the crankcase when it's all done.

Look at the front and rear bearings. Look at the crankcase around the bearings and try to imagine the crankshaft counterweight inside there. It's probably about a 2" or 2.5" counterweight. Look at the diameter of the crankcase around the bearings.

In the last pic you posted--look up inside that hole on the left side. You still have an inner wall. Thats the crankcase. Keep cutting.

All that oil compartment is for is the bar and chain oil. It's not connected to the insides of the engine in any way. Probably got a gas tank on the other side that looks real similar. The engine oil would have been mixed up ahead of time and just poured into the gas tank.

All you got right now is you've gotten inside the bar oil tank. The crankcase is still further inside. Keep cutting. Go slow. Once you get some more of that metal off it will become very clear where the crankcase is.

Be careful around that carb and the spot where the reed plate goes on. It's going to be a tunnel where the fuel flows into the bottom of the case. Don't get in a hurry and cut into that tunnel.

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Edit:
Look at your first pic in the last post you made. Look at the crankshaft where it comes out of the case. See that round circle about 2.5" across? Thats the crankcase. You haven't ruined it yet. Keep going.

That case has a left half and a right half. One side of the crankshaft used to have a magneto on it. The other side of the crankshaft had the clutch and sprocket on it.

The bar oil tank was in the front and probably driven by a worm gear. Fuel tank was in the back of the motor.

There's a left and a right side of that case. When you get done--you'll have a front half and back half of the case because your turning the motor forward to spin a prop. Look how the case is joined together. Screws go through one side and thread into the other side. Don't cut the screw holes away or you'll never get it to bolt back together again.

Cut off all the gas and all the bar oil tank. Should be nothing left but the crankcase and the screw knubs when your done.

Hey thanks, I see what you mean.Im going to my LHS Monday to get a prop hub,Then figure how to mount it to a fire wall
The bolts that connect the two halfs together is how I want to mount it , just get longer bolts 3 ''in or so to a mounting plate.
So much info here its hard to sort I have about 3 hours reading in two days learned alot so far Thanks again.

You might want to look for a prop hub from one of the gentlemen on here or from some of the individuals that's specialize in converting small engines for model airplane use.

The prices for the hubs the LHS could get you that fit Zenoah and Fuji engines are a little pricey even if they would fit.

This list of threads may narrow you search a little?

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/sear...mitbutton=+OK+

There's lots of guys right here on RCU who will machine you a prop hub for not a lot of money. You just need to know how long you want it and figure out a way to get the right taper on it. Best thing to do--find a guy with a lathe who is willing to make it for $15 or $20 and then sned him the engine so he can measure the taper and get it right.

Don't buy a prop hub from the hobby shop. They will most likely roll their eyes at you because they don't care to support this end of the hobby. They want to sell you a DA or an OS. If you can even find the right size hub--it's gonna cost you a small fortune.

The mount:

Just use longer bolts like you wanted. But, bolt a flat plate of aluminum on the back of the engine. Then drill 4 holes in that aluminum and mount it to the firewall with aluminum stand-offs. You'll probably have to drill a hole in the center of the aluminum mounting plate for the crankshaft to clear.

Typically, you'll put your prop hub on the side that has the magneto. The other side of the engine--where the clutch and sprocket was--is going to be the back of your engine now. That part of the crankshaft will stick out the back and you'll need to drill a hole in the aluminum plate for it to poke through..

You can cut off that side of the crankshaft to shave off some weight and also make the engine shorter. But--and this is very important-- TAKE THE CRANK OUT OF THE ENGINE BEFORE YOU CUT IT.
If you don't--the crank will get hot enough to melt the crankshaft seals on the engine. Just put it in a vise and protect it with a towel or a rag so you don't scratch it. Cut the shaft off with a bandsaw or even a dremel cutting wheel. Clean it up a bit and remove any sharp edges and burrs. Clean all the shavings off. You can dunk it in water--just dry it off. Or use some solvent like Carb & Choke cleaner to blast off the shavings.

Here's a pic of how you might want to make your mount.

Sound off if you need more help.

Ok you lost me here (Taper) where does it have to taper? besides that you gave me a alot better understanding, both you guys THanks.

The flywheel sits on a taper. If you remove the flywheel you will see it.

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Good and true advice.

There's a fellow in Florida that makes mufflers, mounts, hubs, etc. and sells them for reasonable prices. Wish I could remember his unusual name. Darn it!

Ok I'll look but I didnt think the theads were tapered thats the only part that sticks out. Doesnt the hub screw right on over top the flywheel?

The threads themselves are straight. The taper the flywheel sits on is underneath the flywheel behaind the threads.

The guy in Florida is Peter. Super nice guy. His page is www.wackerengines.com

if you 're planning on keeping the stock ignition, yes it just seats on top of the flywheel, but if you were to go with aftermarket or use gas/glow mix with a glow plug, you don't need the flywheel...

Thanks all I contacted http://www.wackerengines.com/ I ll see how it goes when I get the parts

I dropped the flywheel and broke a fin is it that big of a deal?

The flywheel must be balanced if you are going to use it.

I always break them all off anyway and grind the flywheel smooth and balance it.....

You might get someone to do the flywheel for you?

Is there an EZ way for me to balance it, jig or something. I'll use the search

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD712&P=ML

[hr]

http://bennettbuilt.com/page9.htm
Hi Point balancer
$39.95

A new unique multi-use precision balancer. Featuring extreme accuracy with no need to level balancer. Quick mounting and dismounting of balance shaft. One balancing shaft required to fit hole diameters from 1/8" to 3/8". Unique design of centering cone, movable cone can be reversed to center thin objects such as spinner back plates. A proven balancing design.

Before I go any further, I was reading about the shaft,that I might need a thrust bearing needles or ball think mine is needles it has a small bit of play.Is this a concern.Will the engine generate that much thrust to even worry.

I was reffering to this post about half way down [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2184930/anchors_2184930/mpage_1/key_muffler/anchor/tm.htm#2184930]here[/link]