Craftsman 55cc
#5

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From: algonquin,
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funny...I just FINALLY finshed mine today
its on the test stand and ill fire it up tonight.Im running it with s/s ignition. Im gonna try it with a zinger 22-6 ( im not sure what size to use) the motors really look nice, Im suprised there arent more people doing em. Ill post some pics in a couple of hours.
its on the test stand and ill fire it up tonight.Im running it with s/s ignition. Im gonna try it with a zinger 22-6 ( im not sure what size to use) the motors really look nice, Im suprised there arent more people doing em. Ill post some pics in a couple of hours.
#7
billzair
Your engine looks great! Did you machine your own prop adapter? I won a 55cc Craftsman on E bay last week for 45.00 shipped, engine is like new. I have removed it from saw and it looks like a real easy conversion. Found a couple of short threads here on the engine. Please keep us updated.
Your engine looks great! Did you machine your own prop adapter? I won a 55cc Craftsman on E bay last week for 45.00 shipped, engine is like new. I have removed it from saw and it looks like a real easy conversion. Found a couple of short threads here on the engine. Please keep us updated.
#9
Here is photo of engine as it came out of the saw, I did turn the carb 180 deg. on the stock rubber mount and I cut the fins down on the flywheel... The 3 holes on the flywheel are tapped and would be a good way to mount the prop adapter if one wants to use stock ignition... Weight is 4.5 lbs as pictured.
#10

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From: algonquin,
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thanks for all the comments...hey rev, the white stuff is some kind of wear resistant poly my buddies dad gives us from his work. The prop hub came from wacker engines, but a freind of mine cleaned up the angle on his lathe. Rev, can you tell us what planes your flyin yous on?? Im building a "semi profile " plane that will weigh about 16.5 lbs ready to fly and I want to have enough power to do some 3d....do you think this motor will have the power?Hamman, a much eaiser way to put on a prop hub is to remove the nut holding on the flywheel and screw on the prop hub in place of the nut....make sure you use some loctite
also, I choose not to place my carb the way you did because I heard that air from the prop can enter that small hole and mess with that diaphram......not sure if thts fact or fiction????
also, I choose not to place my carb the way you did because I heard that air from the prop can enter that small hole and mess with that diaphram......not sure if thts fact or fiction????
#11
I have one of Wacker Engines prop adapters for my 46 poulan, think thats the one you have. You have to really keep it tiight, some have had problems breaking off the threaded part of the crank, its only 8mm. Brillelle has very nice adapters that have a collar that has a slot and a bolt to draw it tight for thr 46cc they sell... The tapered part of the crank is larger on the 55cc, too bad they cut the threaded part down to 8mm...I will make a carb adapter like yours when I get started on mine, will probably solder a small copper tube on plate and run small hose away to eliminate diaphram problems... I dont want to drill holes in top of cowl for carb adjusment.
#13
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From: altoona,
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On the first motor I opened the exhaust port some. Its on the Wild Hare Extra. The second has no mods. it is on the Ultimate. The first motor is a little stronger but both have unlimited vert.
#14

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From: algonquin,
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I used a seperate collar for the magnet.Also from wacker engines..I also cut in a key way in it so that the timing will never "eazily" come out of wack. With how eazy these motors are to convert...no cutting, ez carb mounting, beam mounts like a glow motor , I dont know why any one would do a homelite 45 or poulan 46 scince they are roughly the same price.....theres no replacement for displacement! also when I dissasembled my motor, one of the piston rings was broken. I ordered one from sears and it was at my door in a couple of days!
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From: algonquin,
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In the parts diagram, I didnt see the whole motor avalible...I priced all the parts out to build the motor and it was cheaper to buy the saw. I bought my saw on sale for 189.00 then I sold it on **bay as a parts saw with no motor and got 50 bucks for it. So, really i only paid 139 for it....not to bad
#21

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From: algonquin,
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rev....no, not yet[&o] I was getting ready to, and had to get some grocerys out of the car and my coat snagged the engine test stand and it fell( it wasnt clamped down yet) breaking the prop AND the cheap engine mount I was using for testing only.I was so pissed I could have puched myself in the nuts[X(] So now The only prop I have is a zinger 18-10 and I think thats too small. I want to get a dubro engine mount ( the rubber damper version) but there 40 bucks!! I think ill try to get something together tommorrow.I cant stand to wait much longer!!!
#22

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From: algonquin,
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hey guys...I ran two tanks through the motor today. It runs great! I didnt have a tach on me but Ill guess it was spinning the 22-8 around 7500. As it ran, it was slowly picking up rpm. As the rings seat, it should get better. Rev, what props are you running and what kind of # are you gettin?
#23
7500 rpm is good for an engine of this size, but you should take it easy untill you have a few tanks of gas thru it. You might want to try a 23-8 NX or equivalent to keep the engine rpm's in line. What does your engine weigh?
Z
Z
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From: altoona,
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billzair, I"am running a 22x8 masterair wood cut down to a 21x8 and a top flight 22x6x10 cut down to 21x6x10. This helped with faster revs. I will check rpms tomorrow.




