I've just called the LHS and changed the size to an APC 18x6 (it's a Homelite 30cc, not 25cc!). The guy there told me they're somewhat better than MA props (which seem to be more classic both in shape and performance). According to the numbers I posted before (I'm sorry I can't remember and give credit to the modeller who posted them), it gives the best pulling power. Let's see if I really get 17lb 5oz (~7.853kg)!!![>:]

Pe reivers, I was talking about the pdfs you uploaded, not the webs!

As for the carb replacement, I emailed Carrprecision a week or more ago and still no answer. Are they in business or just don't like overseas customers?[sm=75_75.gif] It's a pity since it had what I was looking for (big carb & plastic adaptor).

I plan to run the engine this weekend and tach it. [&:] This will give me an idea of where do I start. My intentions are to tach it after each whatever change I make on it, to see the rpm gain (or loss).

I'd be nice to have an easy way of grabbing data to plot some rpm/throttle position or Thrust/rpm graphs. I believe peak power or peak rpm is not all, even more when I need thrust for my planned project rather than pure speed. One option is mount the engine on a platform with free movement along one axis (if you are not scared by the idea of an uncontrolled moving prop), tie a fish scale to it and then tach & note down. I don't believe I could expect a decent accuracy, but still is better than anything.

On a different topic, I got the 18x6 MA prop. The guy at the LHS balanced it by lightly shaving the back of the heavier blade with a cutter, a procedure -I must admit- new to me.[sm=red_smile.gif] I mention that because it was new to me (for some stupid reason I tought props came balanced already) and maybe there are better ways of doing so.

Anyway, I cheched how it looked on the engine, and when I tried to unscrewed the prop the hub came off. I just made the 18x6 spin and it locked itself, so it wasn't tight at all. Even tought, the hub came out, so that's something I should take care of. Obviously, I'm worried that could happen in flight; after all both prop and hub are losened in the sense they spin. Maybe some thread lock on the threads and hub/flywheel contact patch and then fastening it with good torque? I might try using electronic ignition, so it mustn't be a permanent union. Also, is there a recomended procedure to take the flywheel off? I recall reading something like giving it a blow with a hard rubber hammer.

I'm still looking for shops or particulars who can sell me a big bore carb kit (most won't even answer an email to someone outside US). So far, I've only found a twisted manifold, which seems quite practical, but adds nothing in terms of power. Maybe I'll put a "wanted" thread in the ad or gas section, but sincerely, I don't expect to find anything. Will keep searching if I have the time, though.

Have fun!

A back fire can losen the hub if its not properly tightened. But normal running tightens it.
After a few runs it will stay tight even with a backfire.

JCaste

If you're not getting a response from Carrprecision it might be that you either have a bad email address from them or they might have a filter that could be catching & deleting your emails before they even see them. Speaking for myself I get roughly a hundred emails a day most of which are spam comming from other countries. Have you tried www.wackerengines.com yet? I think they sell everything you would need. If you still can't find what you need I'm going to order a few more 33cc bid bore carbs I could always see if they have the 30cc big bore carbs and just have it shipped to me. Then I could ship it out to you for the cost of the carb & shipping to Spain.

Rick

TKG, I hope so!

Rick, I used a gmail account and clearly stated it was a homelite conversion issue in the subject field (not "viagra", "***** enlargement", "save this unknown guy" or "online pharmacy" as in most spam ). I've used it to shop online all around the world without problems. Also, the spam filter on my gmail and yahoo accounts has worked perfectly from the first day (sometimes even a bit too much) so that explanation looks a bit weak to me. I think they just don't want to do business outside the US.

And yes, I have tried wackerengines. CJ has been very quick and kind to answer my questions, too bad he only carries a twisted manifold for the Homelite. Anyways, I thank you for your interest. I also sent you a PM, feel free to answer it.

Learn and have fun guys!

What sized carb do you want??

I'm looking for a carb with a ~11mm venturi, like the WA-167 (in this thread there's a big list with 11.11mm venturi carbs).
Ebay has some carbs, but they are too expensive and without the bigger manifold, the carb has no use. I'll try to find some time and do what I told you early this week, I hope I'm lucky!

"Bigger Manifolds" aren't normally available. If I remember correctly, even the "Twister" manifolds do not have a passage much bigger than original. What we do is use a dremel with a sanding drum to increase the inside diameter as required. If this operation gets close to the pulse hole, we epoxy the hole shut, and use an external line to provide the pulse to the fuel pump. (Don't get impatient and try to drill the manifold out, as the drill will probably catch on the soft material and break your manifold.)

Also be careful if you buy a "Twister" manifold. Many of the stock manifolds can be mounted upside down if necessary, to optimize throttle linkage and/or mixture needle access. I believe the "Twister" manifold can only be mounted one way for the pulse hole to work/line up.

Have fun,
AV8TOR

Av8tor, I read a post of yours where you mentioned a quick way to get a somewhat higher compression (albeit you slightly reduce the exhaust timing): take out the gasket in the base and use some goo around to seal it. I wanted to ask if you have ever tried this mod alone (no port or cilinder milling), and if so what are the results.

On a different topic, I have to admit I'm not as happy about the engine conversions as I was before. Last day I saw the price for a Zenoah and I have my doubts in the end it will be worth. Sure, I'm having fun and learning, but one of the goals was making a good powerplant with a reduced budget and doesn't look like there will be a huge price difference between a new, powerful and light engine and an aconditioned ex-trimmer powerplant. Anyways, now I'm on it and I want to get to the end! [>:]

I have to say thanks again, I'm really learning a lot!

EDITED: I'm so d*mn nervous about this conversion thing, that I'm skipping things. [:@] A careful look at the carb showed there's "WT 513" cast on it (next to the fuel intake, the brass tube sticking out in the bottom of the pic). That's a 12.7mm venturi, according to the walbro spec sheet!! Also, the throttle rotates along a vertical axis (=throttle arm parallel to ground)! This is how it's suposed to be for RC use, isn't it? I'm so dumb and impatient I may had the "big bore kit" from the beginning and didn't even notice! I just hope that now that I think I have it, I'm not wrong again. [sm=red_smile.gif] I'm not quite sure though, as the WT 513 mentions a primer which mine doesn't have. The bulb was shipped to me, but who knows, the carb maybe was modded in some way. Things get interesting (and confusing too) to me!

From the picture in your first post, it looks to me like your motor has already been ported. Put a degree wheel on it and find out exactly what you have.

http://testfly.0catch.com/homelite/e...lindermod.html

hey flip I put out a question on interest for the 2300 on the othe engine forum and got booted and received an email that stated " it depends on who are " when i ask they seem to think my question was an advertisment. And said that supporters of RCU was given some leadway so I guess all that money I have spent wasn't enough when I was selling all those mufflers and parts.

Guess, they don't want us country boys playing with the Big Dogs, this will probably get booted too

did that carb work out? I will be back home this weekend.

Runs great! That little motor is a monster for 21cc.

Sorry, but I have never done the modification you mention without doing other modifcations as well. Your Homelite 30cc, if properly prepared, should perform as well as a Zenoah 26cc, and cost a lot less. (Sorry Ralph...)

That carb is as large as you would want if it has a 12.7mm venturi. Just measure the smallest part of the carb throat to find out it's size for sure.

Hang in there, it's worth it!

AV8TOR

Could be, my Homie 25s turned the same 18-6 Mejzlik 8400, a few good mods might do it.

I would not try the new Homelite 30cc from a leaf blower. I got one and it sounds nice but is the biggest dog I have seen. My Mack MB290 (25cc) has much more power. The new Homie I have not taken apart yet. Going to have too ..it is not a good leaf blower at all. Capt,n

According to the previous link, mine is the old model. Couldn't get the rpm readings yet because the LHS didn't have all the stuff I needed, but I should be able to do it this weekend.
Here's the old engine and here the new one. Apparently, the new Homie has a block with rounded top and a thicker top fin, while the old is almost a square (like mine) with all fins the same thickness (it's the only clue I could find). It's funny that you say it's a dog, because that web says the new one has "much larger" transfers. Maybe it's not properly tuned or very restricted in it's current use.

See you guys![8D]

Here are a couple port timing charts and one very good article from a much earlier post that may be of interest......Bob

Hey, that's my "article".

Thanks for the compliment. It was a fun project.

AV8TOR

Quick question: I've read the recomended mix is (gas-oil) between 40:1 and 32:1. That means between 2.5% and 3.1% (% of mass of oil in the mix), is it right?
Also, is a bad idea trying a blend of oils (castor and "for chainsaws")?

Yes, that's right on your percentages of oil. Use 32:1 for break in and 40:1 afterwards. I would recommend using a good brand of high quality two stroke oil. I prefer Pennzoil for Air Cooled Motors, but I don't know if it's available in your location.

To get the amount of oil in oz. for a gallon of fuel, just divide the ratio into the total ounces of gasoline.

For example a gallon of gas is 128 ounces, divided by 40 (for 40 to 1) equals 3.2 ounces of oil.

AV8TOR

AV8TOR, what post did that chart come from. For some reason when I went to save it as a JPEG it gets blurry, or is it my eyes that are going ?????

ALW Phatom: When you bring up the chart...just single click on it and it shoud be easy to read. Its kinda strange...but it works for me!!!!!!!!!!!! Capt,n P.S. Use the Home key and end key on keyboard to get to the begining or ending of a long post.

Av8tor, I will try to find a container of a certain volume so that when I pour its content in 1L of gas I get my desired %. This way it's as easy as filling a small container, pouring it in a gas tank and shake gently and I'll have my X% mix ready.

Can't remember now the brand of the oils, but I think it was Castrol M (castor oil) and another popular brand (at least here) like Motul. As for the break-in, I didn't plan anything (after all, the engine has already been used) so I don't know what to do. Maybe let it consume a tank at slow speeds with 10s bursts at full throttle, but that was for a small glow engine. And, anyways, I probably invented the whole procedure.
From what I've read the needles are configured as you do for glow engines, with the added bonus that you don't need to touch them so often. Said fast and poorly, turn the high till the engine makes the highest pitch, then open a bit; touch the low so you get the best acceleration.

ALW, it happens to me too. That's because the image is too big to appear in your screen and it's resized automatically, losing some quality.
Just leave the mouse over the pic and in a few sec. an icon will appear on the right bottom corner. Click it and the image will resize and appear clear.