Well, here's a couple of pics of my Great Planes Fokker with an Echo 23.6cc engine. It flies great, with plenty of power, and I didn't have to add any ballast anywhere to get the c.g. to come out right.

If I remember right Tower sells it for $249.00, and they usually have discounts for 15 to 25 bucks off a purchase that large.

On the sporty side, here's also two pics of my 72" wingspan Katana 140. It flies SUPER on it's hopped up Echo 23.6cc engine, and also did not need any added ballast to balance. Nitro Planes sells it for around $160.00

Then here's a pic of a "bashed" design of mine. Big Stik tail feathers and wing, and a custom fuselage. Homelite 25cc engine. I designed it with the nose too short and it was tail heavy. So later re-engined it with a Homelite with the magneto for extra nose weight. I flew it a lot, then sold it to a friend that flies the hell out of it!

Basically anything that weighs from 10 to 14 lbs. and has 1000 square inches of wing area or more will fly fine with the 25cc class converted engines.

AV8TOR

av8tor1967: Was there a Tiger Moth Bi-Plane in there somewhere???? Capt,n

Yeah, I have a big Tiger Moth, but it has a lowly Ryobi in it....

Then there's the Giant Stik with the Poulan 42cc, the Twist 60 with the Super Tiger .90 on gas/glow, a standard size Twist with a Fox .78, several electric planes for impromptu flying off the beach...

Yep, I'm out of control. Next on the work bench will be a large Christen Eagle biplane with a Homelite 30cc; after I get done playing with that new twin cylinder engine.....

AV8TOR

You've been a big help, Av8tor, thanks a bunch!

At least now I can guess which kits would be a good candidate for my engine. I appreciate the help everyone's given me.

You may want to consider omitting the mount plate; use the existing 4 bolts to mount direct to the firewall.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_69...anchor/tm.htm# 38 oz.

That's what I was going to do, only instead of leaving the back open cover it with some thin aluminum sheeting or something. I at least figured it would help keep dirt out of the hole in the back. Did you grind down all the stuff that's in the back? Yours is really clean, you can see in the pics of mine that there are alot of places where screws used to go that stick out considerably.

Also, I can't tell from the picture: did you plug the hole or did you simply cut the crank outside of the seal? I think I'm just going to cut my crank outside the oil seal and call it done. If I ever get a leak I'll simply grind it down and plug it but until then that should be good enough.

Are you running yours on gas/glow mix? I'm trying to figure out whether or not I need to switch from the 8mm venturi to the 11mm, or whether I can simply drill out the one I have.

By the way, I did some searching for the GP Dr.1 .60 size. It's been discontinued

Wouldn't mind having one, I definitely favor WWI over WWII. As it is, with the options I have, I'm fairly decided on a CMP FW-190 from AK-Models.com or Nitroplanes.com. The weight is light, although the wing area is slightly less than 1000 sq in. Still, most people end up having to put alot of weight in the nose to get it balance right so I figure this will make a good conversion. It was a tough decision between the FW-190 and the A6M5 Zero. The Zero had 60 sq in more wing area but the FW had flaps and was a full lb lighter. Also the FW cowl is a full 9" across, while the Zero is 8 1/4" tall: my Kioritz is 4" from crank center to top of the head, I didn't want the glow plug sticking out of the cowling.

If people would answer their danged emails I'd have probably ordered the FW already. What's with online stores taking so long to answer their emails, anyways? Their loss, my gain, went to the field today and a guy had a FunAero 65" Alb D.III that he'd used the engine and radio equipment for on another plane. What can I say? I'm a lucky man This guy doesn't even live here, I just happened to be at the right place at the right time.

I'll try to haggle him down from $325 to $250, but I need to sell some stuff 'cause I doubt he'll go that low

Wufnu A selection of carbide burrs (Harbor Freight) and a drill press works the case nicely. I just cut the crank and it runs on gas. Losing the electronic ign would save a couple of oz.

Forgot to mention I got the crank cut. I got a dremel cutting disc, it cut it surprisingly easily. Left the cut nice and shiny, I need to get some polishing pads or something and do that to the entire engine, make it look good

Does anybody have a good system for polishing motors that doesn't take hours and hours and cause arthritic convulsions?