What are the magic words? Just wondering how I'm supposed to get this thing off without breaking it, my hand, the leg of some guy walking down the street, and Christmas. I see two threaded holes and nothing inside with which to secure them. There are two plug type pieces sticking up from the back. Trying to not damage the inside, is there somewhere i can stick a screwdriver or something to prevent the flywheel from turning? That bolt on the back is on tighter than a lugnut.

Ahh, man, this is great. Got the nut off and now the flywheel is held on by magic.

Edit: Lemme guess, the shaft is tapered. The tapped holes on the flywheel are for a special tool that involves screwing two bolts in there that are attached to a rever piledriver type device. Am I right?

Here's a picture of the front, if this rings any of your bells.

Try simply putting bolts into the threaded flywheel holes.

This should push on the case and loosen the flywheel.


I've never done this engine, but it works that way on other engines.

Ahh, ok. I wasn't going to risk it until someone said that was how it's done. It's how some parts are removed on my motorcycle, too

Awe you have a prop hub, sorry I can't help you then.
Unless a longer bolt in the center will push off the hub.

When I say flywheel I mean the thing that spins around the magneto in the back of the engine. Is there another term for it? Part number seven.

Loosen nut untill the threads are about flush with shaft. Have the flywheel clamped lightly in a vise. Then tap on end of shaft with a hammer. It will pop loose easy. Do not pound on it ...if you got fly wheel clamped good or supported good from the backside...it works easy. If you do mot have a vise big enough...support the flywheel from the back-side with a couple metal bars. Capt,n

What ever you do, don't try to the shaft from the front. You can twist the crank if you do this. You can make a simple puller from scrap metal. A flat rectangle about 1/4" thick with two holes for the fly wheel clutch screws and a tapped hole in the center. Attach it to the wheel with the two clutch screws and run a bolt through the tapped center hole against the end of the crank. Tighten the bolt and the whell will pop off. I seen the Koritz on ebay recently.

Dave

That worked, Cap'n. Took me three tries. After the second I started hunting for some of that stuff that breas stuck screws but couldn't find it, decided to give it one more try. First whack, popped right off. This is going to save ALOT of weight, that little wheel probably weighed as much as the cylinder.

No wonder these Echo engines are so bullet proof, everything is in there for good. Even the screws holding the magneto on, jee whiz it never ends. Here's what I don't understand, on one of the screws it was impossible for me to get it out without deforming the screw head. Had to get it out with vice grips. How did they put it in without deforming the head?

Alot lighter now that I've got all the electronics off of it! Only thing left to do is do something about the rod sticking out of the back and fashion an aluminum back plate. Someone in another thread said to use dremel cutting disks for the rod. I don't have any on hand but how hard is this metal? I've tried cutting stainless steel before with a dremel, it wasn't fun. Doesn't look like I can get a grinder in there, don't want to disassemble it if I don't want to. Will the disks work or should I see if there's a local machine shop that can cut it out in about 2 minutes?

Also, anyone know a good muffler for this? Someone crafted a home made deal but I don't know what it's made out of, looks heavy.

Carb is WA 66, I think it's 7.94mm. This is too small for gas/glow, right?

I am not so sure you save that much weight cutting shaft. You may want to use it to install a timing rotor with magnut. Then use electronic ignition. Can you post a photo of what you got now? Thanks, Capt,n

If I take the engine apart, then I just chuck the crank in my lathe and use a parting tool to cut off that back portion. I usually cut it off just past the rear bearing. Then you can make an aluminum block off plate for the rear shaft area, and do away with the seal. This eliminates not only the weight of the rear shaft part and the seal, but also eliminates one more possible leak area; the rear seal. It also probably increases power a bit, both due to the decreased crankshaft drag, and the decreased crankcase volume...

However, if you really don't want to take the engine apart, then yes, you can cut off the crank piece with a cut off wheel and a dremel. After the first few thousandths of an inch, the cranks aren't as hard as most people think. Just go slowly and make sure you don't overheat the shaft enough to damage the seal. If you end up with a leak there, it will drive you nuts....

Have fun,
AV8TOR

Yup, here are some pictures. I'm not going to use EI, I'm going to use gas/glow mix. Cutting the shaft so that it would have about 1/16" clearance with an aluminum backplate would probably still allow EI if I chose that route later.

The shaft is entirely too long, it must be cut. I could probably attach a prop on the back

I think it's the Fuji 32cc that has a rear shaft so long left on it that you have to drill a hole in the firewall for it. What a joke... Pay big bucks for what is really only a "converted" engine, and it's not even "converted" properly.

Oh well....

AV8TOR

Is the black piece at the base of the shaft the seal or the bearing? I don't see anything moving, I assumed it was just a cover for the bearing.

And there are people that will knock conversions because they're not a "real" aircraft engine. "You know you get what you pay for, I wouldn't have one of these in MY plane." SURPRISE!

That's the oil seal. CRITICAL that it does not leak... The rear bearing is right behind it and has no shield nor cover.

AV8TOR

What? You don't want to pay Tower Hobbies 800 bucks for a Fuji four stroke engine?? And then the magazine articles I read said they couldn't even keep it running....

I'll stick with my low buck, home made conversions any day....

AV8TOR

I see. So what you do is cut the crank right past the bearing (I'm assuming there is a small gap between the bearing and oil seal to allow this?), then replace the oil seal with an aluminum plug. That about right?

I don't have the tools to do this (well, I could PROBABLY cut the crank without screwing up everything but the aluminum cylinder plug I cannot make myself), I may have to seek out a local machine shop.

Just a thought ... A freeze plug from an auto parts store properly installed may do he trick.

Cut that shaft off about1/4 inch from crankcase and call it good. Keep shavings out of seal. Good to go. Regards, Capt,n

Without muffler the engine weighs 41oz, with muffler 46. Shouldn't these engines weigh less than that? I was hoping for about 2lbs.

2 lbs. is never going to happen. 2.5 is about the lightest gas engine I remember hearing of anywhere. You're right in the ballpark at 46 oz.

AV8TOR

Ahh, that's disappointing I figured if Aero Nut could get a weed eater 25cc at 1lb 12oz then the Kioritz 23.6cc would have been somewhere close.

Frustrating. So would this still be an ok engine for a, say, .91-1.20 4 stroke sized plane? That's what I was looking at before, guessed on displacement alone, but I'm not sure if they can accept a motor that weighs 10oz more. Specifically, I was looking really hard at the 1.20 sized CMP Zero. I suspect I'll be favoring snub-nosed planes in the future, eh?

I have so little experience with IC planes (only three, none larger than .46) and I just don't know how much weight these arfs can tolerate. I always keep my engines within the rated spec, not sure why, I just figured not every plane needs unlimited vertical. I think we have similar scale interests, perhaps: with this engine do you know of any ARF's are out there that won't cry because I've got a porker engine on it that's either Central WWI or Axis WWII (prefered), under or near $200? (99.9% of all planes at the field are US planes, they need competition)

Sadly, the only WWI arfs of this size (under $500) I know of all come from Balsa USA, which would be fine if I didn't have school and a sever lack of building ability. Scratch building foamies I do well, balsa kits? I can build peanut scale rubber models fine but I've only worked on one R/C one and I've already screwed up the fuse assembly If I were to drop $300 on a kit, however nicely made, and botch it I would be upset. The SRBatteries E.I also looks lovely.