dragnbye

ok so i got my engine fom best engines. it pretty big and heavy what i want to do is cut the metal shourd around the magnetto off, and some of the black plastic on that carb plate. also i was thinking of going glow/gas on this also to save some weight also.

savagecommander

i am doing the same step by step thing you are. however my ryobi has four torx bit screws that hold the metal shroud seperate from the case.how strong is your arm? i think you will have a long day with a hacksaw.[:@] how about that goofy reed valve? i never saw an engine with one of those.

dragnbye

i have seen those pics of that metal plate i dont know why my didnt come with it. but as far as the hack saw when i go to work today i have a air powered saw should be fairly quick. i was reading on here last night to just bend that reed valve back a 1/8 of a inch (it is weird). i will put some pics of it up tonight

savagecommander

bend it back huh... so the engine doesnt have to draw it open, interesting. can you post a link on the so i can read the how to??

air saws are cheap i would just drink about six red bulls, put on some system of a down and YAAAAHHH!!!!![>:]

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

the trick is to bend back the reed stop, so it can draw in more air/fuel, it needs the reed because the intake isn't piston ported, goes directly through the crank case instead of through the side of the cylinder under the piston

dragnbye

you dont bend the reed vavle back you bend the arm behind it dont touch the reed, only the thicker arm behind it. here are some pic b 4 and after

dragnbye

and here it is after trimming i still need to do some on the mount. and i was going to oder the pitts style muffer form wacker engines. but this is still a very big engine. i plan on putting this in the new hanger9 sundowner. any body that has tips for going glow/gas would help me alot thanks and more pics

Ralphbf

My Feedback: (27)

There is a trade off on bending the reed stop.

It does allow the reed to open farther and that may let in more air.
The down side is metal fatuge.
The reed may become weak from over bending and break.
Then it is swallowed by the engine. This will ruin the engine +95% of the time.

What you are hoping for is more RPM but to many rpm on a Ryobi is not a good thing anyway.
What you need is a fiber reed.
They are more flexable so they open sooner and allow the engine to breath easier.

I'd test run my engine to see is it really needed more rpm after I converted it.
Better safe than sorry.

dragnbye

good point. i only bent it just a very little so when the reed was open it was at a 1/8 opening. but thats for the tip i will look in to that

savagecommander

would 9500 be a stretch??

Ralphbf

My Feedback: (27)

From what I understand the Ryobi is good for 8000rpm 8500rpm tops.
Because of the unsupproted crankshaft.
Echo and Homelites are good to 10,000 because the crank has a bearing on each end.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Echo engines have a bearing on each end of the crank, and will probably twist as high as one would ever want to run them.

Homelite engines have a cantilever crank with two bearings, but only on the front; not on each side of the crank. But they are still good to 10,000 rpms.

A Ryobi has a stamped steel rod, and I wouldn't recommend running one over a static 7500 on the ground. That is going to be over 8000 in the air sometimes, which is more than enough for a Ryobi.....

AV8TOR

dragnbye

ok about this glow/gas. what needs to been done

1. os 4 cycle hot glow plug
2. glow plug adapter
3. and a mix of gas and glow


what percent of oil with the glow. and is this all that it needs
thanks for any help

jrjr2u

1 part glow fuel (10% nitro 10% oil)
2 parts HI TEST gasoline

savagecommander

there is 80+ pages on this forum... thnx for the info on the motor..

captinjohn

Av8tor: Homelites will go way past that 10K in boats and survive good. Capt,n