I have a Kioritz 2.4 on magneto and I want to convert it to EI. How do I remove the prop hub and fly wheel?

It should just screw off.

Ok......in what direction?

They should be right hand threads. There may be a little Loctite on the threads. If you find it hard to unscrew a little heat on the hub will soften the Loctite and it should come right off.

Some are right handed and some are left handed depending on what the motor was used for.

If I remember right hedge trimmers are right handed and string trimmers are left handed.

So..........If I understand this right, when I'm holding the prop do I turn it to the RIGHT to loosen the prop hub or to the LEFT?

What did it come off of?

Also sometimes it will have a R or a L on the shaft.

And an impact gun is helpfull on taking them off too.

That I don't know. It's a Kioritz 40cc engine. I'll look at the shaft and will get back to you. Thanks for the update.

unscrew it counter clockwise or when your looking at the prop turn it to the left.use a heat gun or try a hair blower if it gets hot enough to heat the hub a little then turn it.its best to put a piece of rope in spark plug hole to hold crank from turning.this is the easiest way.move piston to BDC to install rope.then just use a pipe wrench with a rag around hub to try and prevent scratches and turn.or put flywheel in vise if its to stubborn so you dont damage crank or rod.

SUCCESS!!! (I think). I put rope inside the spark plug hole, heated the hub with my heat gun, used some grease and it turned! . I removed the prop hub! This joy was short lived as I discovered that the magneto is also screwed on! [:@]. There are 4 holes with threads in them. I thinking that there is some type of tool the is threaded into the four holes and then it screws off as well. Now, anybody know of such a tool?

I'm in the middle of taking apart 2 PB400.

The mag hub came off easily on the 1st one and won't budge on the 2nd one.

You should be able to put the nut back on flush with the shaft and wack it with a hammer and it should come loose.

One more thing, you have to let the motor hang by the hub whe you hit it.

Well I tried what you said and this mag is either screwed down so tight or else it's wielded on! I cannot get it to move 1/4 of an inch. I have hit it over and over with a hammer and I've even tried heating it with my heat gun and it still will not move! I put it in a vice and almost broke the vice from my work bench trying to turn/pry it off. Any suggestions? Thanks.

My digital camera stopped working the other day or I'd send you pictures
to make sure we are talking about the same thing.


Ralph

I'll be happy when it's fixed . Looking at the shaft I see where a woodruf (sp?) key is supposed be and there's not one there. If it is tapered down it's down tight. On the one the came off easy for you, was it a press on or was it screwed down?

They are exactly the same engines.
One was easy and the other not so easy.
I'm going to a friends who has a gear puller and give it a try.

I'll keep you up dated.

By the way I just picked up an Echo CS-300 Echo chain saw engine
as a basket case. It cleaned up real nice.
Ordered the ring today it's suppose to be in on Tuesday.
I'll probally put it on my Birdi Old Timer, if I ever finnish it.

Anyway it's a 30cc reed valve engine rated at 10,000 to 12,000 rpm.
It should Haul the Mail as they say.

It took about 2 hours to get it ready.
Now I need a prop hub, I already have the Gas-Glow mixture ready.

I plan to put this in a Balsa USA 1/4 Spad. With all that weight off and an electronic ignition it should be a perfect fit. I plan on contacting BCMA engines. They know several people who can machine customs prop hubs with the hole for the sensor already drilled for thier EI system. Looks pretty good for $75.00. I'll be waiting for your results. Thanks for all your help.

rcnats