looks fairly simple.. shouldnt take much to do
thanks for the pics

What are you looking for in CNC flanges? Give me some details and I will see if I can support you.

Al

Hi Al; Here is a scan of the Poulan 46 gasket for the header. I used 1/4 thick 6061. The holes are .250 dia. The center to center on the holes is 1.450. The width of the port is 1.000 and the height is .650, of course the odd shape
If you could crank out some flanges I could make you up a header or muffler or???
Thanks; Adam

Hi Adam,

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. I was trying to wait and see when I can schedule my next trip out to my buddies shop. I will make a few of these manually and see how they turn out and let you know.

Any questions just contact me offline.
Al

I make mufflers for all kinds of conversion engines

For those of us who don't, and never will, have access to any kind of welder, has anyone tried brass and silver solder or braze?

Ive seen some very nice mufflers made from brass or copper and brazed together. They have a tendency to get a little heavy if your not careful but it has been done.

For what its worth Ive done a bit of custom work; aluminum welding for other modelers and Im always willing to if someone has something they need made up. I work pretty cheap and Ive done work for modeling supplies.
There are just some combinations that nothing is available for and they are to odd for some manufacture to tool up to make one or two.

If anyone runs into a dead in like that dont hesitate to contact me and we may be able to get something done.

Adam

Ken Lambert made this one for my Poulan 60 yesterday. Works great! Tig welded, a little more volume than the Abell or B&B mufflers to let the engine breathe a little better.

nice job.. wish i had a tig welder to give it a try.. doesnt look too hard..

it's not hard if you know how the hardest part of it is parting with $2000. just to make a few mufflers for conversions,the welding itself just takes practice

I agree with Ken; The hard part is sucking it up and buying the welder :stupid: After that its practice , practice, practice...
Adam

What do you accomplished weldors think of the Invertec V160-T? I was at the Offshore Technology Conference last week and Lincoln Electric had a large display booth. I was drooling all over the Invertec V275-S even though I understand it's not primarily a TIG welder since it doesn't have high frequency start. They had a rack of 8 of them on display!

Realistic though, I'll probably end up with a MIG for a general-purpose welder, since I would like to do other types of welding more than just intricate aluminum TIG.

BTW, I was rereading my Finch welding manual last night, and it said TIG welding aluminum does not require a shielding gas. Is this true for MIG too?

Volfy; First you must have mis read something in the Finch book. Shield gas is a definite in any Tig process. I have that book, tell me what page that statement was on and Ill check it out.

The smaller Invertec welder only does DC so you cannot weld aluminum with it. For welding aluminum you need AC. Look at the 175 amp TIG welder that Lincoln sells, Miller and Hobart also sell similar machines and with a little shopping you can usually find one for less than $1500.00


If you can find a local Vocational school that offers a welding class take it. That should give you a chance to try all different kinds of welding processes before buying.
Adam

Volfy,

I'm going to buy a TIG this summer. I went to Sears and they sell a 175 amp Hobart for $1200. I then went to Norco (a welding supplier) and told them and a little pressure resulted in the manager saying he would sell me a Miller 175 amp TIG machine at $1226. Now I'm debating hand or foot temp control. You might be able to do the same thing. A little competition never hurt anyone.

Doug

Adam, I was surprised too. I'll flip through the Finch book tonight and tell you the page number. I think it was in the TIG section. I hear you about the welding classes. When I looked into it back when I lived in Oklahoma City, the Community College near where I lived offered welding classes. The instructor I spoke to on the phone told me it wasn't for "hobbyists" like me. I wonder if schools around here are more accomodating.

Doug, those are good prices. The Lincoln square wave machines I was looking at start at around $1500.

Okay, checked the Finch book at Lowes on lunch break. It's the newest (1997) edition. On page 120-121 in the TIG section, it mentioned that shielding gas may improve the weld appearance on the back side but it doesn't add any more to the weld integrity. It goes on to say that Al does not pick up contaminates in the air as much as Titanium or Steel do, and that molten Al cools in the presence of oxygen with only minor surface oxidation. Therefore, the use of shielding gas is a waste of money and resources.

My Finch book is an earlier edition (1985?), but I remember it said pretty much the same thing. When I first bought the book I was only interested in MIG and MAW, so I didn't read the TIG section much. I had read in product manuals and spec sheets that Argon is required for welding Al, but I guess it doesn't necessarily apply to TIG?

Needless to say, I'm thoroughly confused.

I believe he is talking about shielding on the back side of the weld. For example if you are welding something that is sensitive to exposure to oxygen when it is molten like titanium or stainless then you not only need shield gas from the torch but you need shield gas on the back side of the weld also. Regular steel or aluminum doesnt require that.



Ill double check my book when I get home tonight but im pretty sure that is what he is refering to.

Adam

Aneat is right, the Al will burn away without shielding gas. Full penetration butt welds in steel will require a purge gas on the back side (usually inside of pipe) to meet some reqirements. Usually only in the nuclear field.
MIG uses a flux cored wire and does not require gas. Think of SMAW (stick welding) turned inside-out.

Maybe I'm just cheap, but has anyone tried these so called "Welding Sticks" that you use with a propane torch? Or is it just hype? Wish I had the talent and equipment that these boat hardtop/tower guys have. Seen some really nice work from them (mainly Pipe Welders in South Jersey).

Try techno-weld welding sticks,I have used them on exhaust
pipes and got exelent results,also price is very low.


ww.techno-weld.com

WALDO
HI8W/HI8WPC

Thanks for the info mangolo.

I will post some pics of my current "Conversion Muffler" on my big Tecumseh. Used a 3/4" conduit junction box. Has a removable cover an gasket and can be had with outlet in various places. Price is right too. Really nothing more the an exhaust diverter, but for now it's the ticket. As soon as the ignition comes in, I'll fire it up and see what the neighbors think!

They work OK, but the process is very finicky. Good temp control is must, just a bit too cool and the stick never melts and just a bit too hot and the molten stick just flows off the parts without sticking. Parts must be very clean too, or the joint is very weak.

It is not fancy, but filled a need for the Ryobis. An electrical conduit connection box, cut out port on side opposite cover, plugged the end holes, put in some alum U chan with partially open ends and holes for deflection, drilled holes for mounting bolts. Installed a single alum tube ( part of a second hand crutch ) in one of the outlets of the box.

The boxes come in various sizes and configerations.

A pic at yahoo :
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/bnbnlapaz...iew=t&.hires=t

I posted a pic of my conduit junction box muffler in my gallery. I have since added a tractor muffler to hopefully keep the neighbors happy during trial runs! Of course it comes off after that!

I now have pics of a couple mufflers on my site ryobi and poulan the ryobi shows a 1" pipe but i also make them with 2 pipes will have a pic of that later the ryobi is 35.00




Kenneth