Need advice on prop hub design....
#1
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From: MCALISTERVILLE,
PA
Ok,my flying buddy who has a gunsmith shop said he would gladly make me a prop hub thing. I would just like you guys to look at the shaft and maybe open my mind up to some ideas. The shaft has a small tapered section as it goes into the crankcase(kinda hard to see in the pics). It also has a small "key" and groove on this tapered section. The is a small threaded section you can see part way down on the shaft. And the end is threaded inside alittle ways,but only used smaller threads(about 10x24 or so). The entire shaft length is 3-3/4" from the case. So what would be the best way to fit the new prop hub onto this shaft?
I'm thinking.....1) Make a 2 piece hub so that one piece fits over the shaft and uses the small key over the tapered part and the other hub piece tightens up against the first using those threads on the shaft. This second piece would extend a couple inches past the shaft and would be threaded to accept a bolt to hold the prop on. And would like just cut off the inside threaded end part of the shaft.
2) Use a short 1 piece hub that uses the key with the taper,and the prop would just slide onto the shaft and the whole works would be held on using a bolt on those shaft threads. It would just have to work just right for the prop thickness and everything so that you would run out of threads when tightening up everthing. The threaded section isnt that long. And again cut off that end part of the shaft.
3)Not use the key,and screw the hub onto the threaded section and use those same hub theads for the prop bolt. And hope it all doesnt come loose from not using the key(cant use the key if turning the hub on). This way would require to different diameter holes through the hub(one threaded). And again...cut off the small end of the shaft.
Sorry that I suck at explaining things and have to make such a lengthy and confusing post,but please bare with me.....I really do appreciate the help and advice.
I'm thinking.....1) Make a 2 piece hub so that one piece fits over the shaft and uses the small key over the tapered part and the other hub piece tightens up against the first using those threads on the shaft. This second piece would extend a couple inches past the shaft and would be threaded to accept a bolt to hold the prop on. And would like just cut off the inside threaded end part of the shaft.
2) Use a short 1 piece hub that uses the key with the taper,and the prop would just slide onto the shaft and the whole works would be held on using a bolt on those shaft threads. It would just have to work just right for the prop thickness and everything so that you would run out of threads when tightening up everthing. The threaded section isnt that long. And again cut off that end part of the shaft.
3)Not use the key,and screw the hub onto the threaded section and use those same hub theads for the prop bolt. And hope it all doesnt come loose from not using the key(cant use the key if turning the hub on). This way would require to different diameter holes through the hub(one threaded). And again...cut off the small end of the shaft.
Sorry that I suck at explaining things and have to make such a lengthy and confusing post,but please bare with me.....I really do appreciate the help and advice.
#2
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From: , IL
i would do the "hub keyed to the shaft with threads for prop nut" route. and might as well set screw it while your there. but if you have the stock flywheel then you can cut the tapered part out of the middle of it and use it instead of having to figure out what the taper is. its somewhere close to 10 degrees but i ddint get any further than that when making my flywheel turning arbor. 10 worked, and thats what i used.
your lucky u have a long shaft version. mine is the short shaft version and i wish i had a long shaft one. oh well, mine worked out fine.
have the gunsmith friend use a face knurler on it to make the teeth pattern to hold the prop in place.
your lucky u have a long shaft version. mine is the short shaft version and i wish i had a long shaft one. oh well, mine worked out fine.
have the gunsmith friend use a face knurler on it to make the teeth pattern to hold the prop in place.
#3
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I'll bear with you, but not bare 
this looks like the Ryobi long shaft!
I would use a one piece front prop shaft, keyed, with a magnet for an EI unit. The prop fastening nut would also be the prop centering nut. Been there done that with good results, just make sure the tapers are fitting real well. The long shaft was not my favorite.

this looks like the Ryobi long shaft!
I would use a one piece front prop shaft, keyed, with a magnet for an EI unit. The prop fastening nut would also be the prop centering nut. Been there done that with good results, just make sure the tapers are fitting real well. The long shaft was not my favorite.




