My newest hub...
#1
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From: MCALISTERVILLE,
PA
I got my new lathe up and running and have been playing around with hubs and stand-offs lately. I just got done with my new hub for my short shaft 54cc homelite. It was a fairly complex hub because I extended it back past the tapered key section so that it would come flush with the crankcase for a nice clean look,plus the case had a little ring around it that the hub overlaps(wish I would have taken a picture before I bolted on the hub. So,a good bit of the back section of the hub is hollow. I also chose to use 3 screws to which will be hidden after the prop is mounted to join the halves together instead of machining a much larger diameter hub which would have let me join the halves with screws on the outside after tapering it. I also cut out a split ring that will house my ignition magnet that will be adjustable. I have to pound some grooves onto the face yet so the prop doesnt slip,but I'll do that later. I cant wait to get this engine running. Whatta ya think?
#6
Jetster...that is indeed a very good looking hub. What model is your new lathe? I went back and read some previous postings on "Lathes for conversions" and it it getting me in the mood to start more Lathe work. It is a good time of year....too cold and nasty out here to do anything out of doors! In all the photos I have seen here on theses forums...I have never seen the backside view of the hubs showing the taper, ect. A few more views (in sequence) of the hubs made would be neat also. Best Regards Capt,n
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From: MCALISTERVILLE,
PA
Yes,I made the ring too. I think next time I'll try a different setup like maybe a simple set screw setup or something instead of the clamping style. Its a pain to make the recesses in the ring to countersink the screws and stuff. I might even incorperate the ring into the hub itself that will clamp in in place when you bolt the hub together(hard to explain,lol). And yes,I might do a stud style later I guess,but I've never had any issues with the bolt style on my other big gas engines as long as you leave enough room for threads. .
And thanks guys!
And thanks guys!
#11
ORIGINAL: av8tor1977
Good call coralcape. That's how I do all mine; with a stud for the prop.
AV8TOR
Good call coralcape. That's how I do all mine; with a stud for the prop.
AV8TOR
#12
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Hey Capt,n I would be careful doing that. You do have clearance there in the threads, both the stud and the hub. Depending on the quality of the tap, the condition of the machine and the ability of the machinist you may indicate something that really isn't meaningful.
#14
ORIGINAL: tim220225
Hey Capt,n I would be careful doing that. You do have clearance there in the threads, both the stud and the hub. Depending on the quality of the tap, the condition of the machine and the ability of the machinist you may indicate something that really isn't meaningful.
Hey Capt,n I would be careful doing that. You do have clearance there in the threads, both the stud and the hub. Depending on the quality of the tap, the condition of the machine and the ability of the machinist you may indicate something that really isn't meaningful.
#15

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From: Chiburbia,
IL
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
Seems like to me if you take the hub you have turned and have stud in place and take a light finnish cut on unthreaded part of stud, you could see right away if there is a problem. Maybe I do not really know what "I would be carefull of doing that" in this case means. Knida like the big ..hoop-te-do.. of when I made a hub by cutting out the center of a flywheel. I have read where many other peole have done it later. They was not replied to with a "be carefull" the sky is falling in" Guess I won,t post much . I have people PM me and I think I like that better. I can then give then my phone number and I call them if they want. No charge...no hoops! Capt,n
ORIGINAL: tim220225
Hey Capt,n I would be careful doing that. You do have clearance there in the threads, both the stud and the hub. Depending on the quality of the tap, the condition of the machine and the ability of the machinist you may indicate something that really isn't meaningful.
Hey Capt,n I would be careful doing that. You do have clearance there in the threads, both the stud and the hub. Depending on the quality of the tap, the condition of the machine and the ability of the machinist you may indicate something that really isn't meaningful.
Wow, you were the first to try this? Very crafty of you.
#16
ORIGINAL: tim220225
Hey Capt,n I would be careful doing that. You do have clearance there in the threads, both the stud and the hub. Depending on the quality of the tap, the condition of the machine and the ability of the machinist you may indicate something that really isn't meaningful.
Hey Capt,n I would be careful doing that. You do have clearance there in the threads, both the stud and the hub. Depending on the quality of the tap, the condition of the machine and the ability of the machinist you may indicate something that really isn't meaningful.
#18

My Feedback: (6)
Here's a pic of one of my prop hubs with a collar like I mentioned. Set screw on one side; magnet on the other. The compression collars like you made Jester also work well and look nice however.
Sorry the pic is a bit blurry, and the hub doesn't have a stud installed yet.
AV8TOR
Sorry the pic is a bit blurry, and the hub doesn't have a stud installed yet.

AV8TOR
#19

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From: cape coral,
FL
My warning about using a stud comes from experience. I find that the threads in a aluminum adapter tend to wallow out over time, this doesn't happen with a steel stud. I feel that the clamp type of adapter is the best. I usually cut the whole thing as a unit and drill the clamp holes before I separate it. I find this type of adapter won't come loose on the crank, as a screw on might. As to run out, I use a four jaw chuck and set this up with no run out before I do any cutting. Good luck, red
#21
ORIGINAL: coralcape
My warning about using a stud comes from experience. I find that the threads in a aluminum adapter tend to wallow out over time, this doesn't happen with a steel stud. I feel that the clamp type of adapter is the best. I usually cut the whole thing as a unit and drill the clamp holes before I separate it. I find this type of adapter won't come loose on the crank, as a screw on might. As to run out, I use a four jaw chuck and set this up with no run out before I do any cutting. Good luck, red
My warning about using a stud comes from experience. I find that the threads in a aluminum adapter tend to wallow out over time, this doesn't happen with a steel stud. I feel that the clamp type of adapter is the best. I usually cut the whole thing as a unit and drill the clamp holes before I separate it. I find this type of adapter won't come loose on the crank, as a screw on might. As to run out, I use a four jaw chuck and set this up with no run out before I do any cutting. Good luck, red
#22

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From: cape coral,
FL
OK Capt'n. First pic is a 45cc homelite on a N.W. hobbies corsair, notice the sensor mag is on the main hub. I find once the prop adpt'r is tightened on the taper it will not move, so no need for separate ring. Second pic is 61cc husquarvna on a 30% QueQui yak54. The sensor ring is on the rear hub. I couldn't help putting on pics of the corsair. It's 85" ws and is covered in alum duct tape. All seams done with simulated rivets. Looks great, but had to add nose checkerboard to see it in the air. Here in sunny S.Fl. (75 today) it's hard to see light colored planes.




#24

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From: cape coral,
FL
Oops, guess I did something wrong. I had Granddaughter do this for me, but you see what happened. I put them in the photo gallery, under coralcape if you want to take a look. Maybe someone can tell me how to do this correctly, so they appear in the post. Thanks, red




#25
Just use the "click here to upload images and files" at the bottom of the reply window. Please do so, as I am very interested in your hub design. Do you make them for others? Thanks.
Regards, Richard
Regards, Richard



