well i got all the other parts i need for the tried and tested gas glow conversion post i found here but now i need a prop adapter. does anyone know where i can get one in south western ontario. i tried avf in london but no go. im trying to convert a 25cc poulin pro model 114. someone please help thanks

This guy will hook you up.
[link]http://wackerengines.com/[/link]

Are you looking for one that bolts onto the flywheel or one that screws on over the crankshaft.

there isnt going to be a flywheel im going gas glow. trying to lighten it up as much as possible. i noticed there is a small like 1/2 inch keyway at the base of the shaft does the adapter go all the way down to there? or do they just screww onto the threaded end and have a nut assembly to hold the prop?

Is this a long shaft engine or a short shaft engine? Regardless....your hub should go all the way down over that key slot and your hub should have a slot ground into it for the use of a key. If its a long shaft,the threads/nut part will hold prop and everything on. If its a short shaft,the nut will hold half the hub(which will bolt to the other half...long story). At least thats how I do it.

I believe some guys(like the ones in that link I think) simply screw the hub onto the threads. I personally dont think I would ever do that because the threads in the soft aluminum just dont have the strength for that if you actually want to to be good and tight. Maybe it just looks like thats how their doing it and their actually using a different setup. It might be alot easier and cheaper to make,but I cant see how the quality would be there at all. Not to mention their probly not getting alot of threads on the prop bolt then either,so that would likely strip out if you tried to tighten it well.

Guys just trying to make a quick $20 me thinks.

If you have a good fit on the taper, you do not need a key-way. The hub should come off taper kinda hard and with the use of a little loctite...its there just as good as if a key was used. Also on gas /glow you do not worry about timing. Capt,n

jester-

Screw on type prop hubs are the most common on conversion motors. Most places (including myself) make hubs from t-6061 aluminum or better which is not that soft. Clean both ends with some alcohol and use some blue or red locktite and youll never have a problem. Have you ever machined a prop hub??? If so , you would realize that someone selling one for $20 is BARLEY making any kind of profit on it.And to say that guys selling them for $20 are " out to make a quick 20 bucks " is just rediculious. Really.

Man that's the truth. Everytime I make a prop hub, I can't believe that guys make them and sell them for only 20 bucks. A lot of machine time involved, plus the materials to charge only 20 bucks...

AV8TOR

Yes,I have and DO machine my own hubs and I have been in the engine test stand buisness awhile now and have quite a bit of experience messing with these engines(mostly glow I admit). Although I will gladly admit to not being the most experienced hub maker ever,nor will I be. I didnt mean to offend anyone either. I also dont know what aluminum I'm getting from the machine shop as it doesnt really matter for the way I make my hubs. Not saying the others arent worth $20 I guess or wont work......just stating that its possible to get alternative hubs cheaper I suppose. I dont know how much t-6061 would cost in material,but its really not that hard nor does it take that long(couple hours maybe) to produce a simply hub design like that. Here is some pics of a hub I quickly turned out a couple weeks ago as a simply make-shift hub(you may have read my other post) till my EI got here(which uses a different hub) that utilized the flywheel just so I could run the engine. Theres a couple dollars in material and maybe 2 hours machining. It serves the same purpose of those $20 hubs(flywheel use),but uses a steel coupler that both holds on the flywheel and the prop and I had no fear of stripping anything and it worked awesome! And because making this stuff is simply a hobby and not a business.........This setup would be worth like $15 or less and I think its a tougher hub. But,thats just my opinion honestly. Here the pics....the face isnt knurled yet,nor is the threaded stud cut off because I just threw it together.

I almost forgot a add that short shaft hubs (long shaft hubs are easy regardless) that are designed for EI use [can] require ALOT more labor and would be worth paying 25-45 dollars for a good one. Cutting the proper taper is the hardest part usually [:@] And this doesnt apply to these simply flywheel hubs which is also what makes them easy to make.

Well if your trying to make a living at a machine shop, you couldn't afford to use a $125,000 machine center to take two hours to make a prop hub to sell for $20

It is kind of hard to believe that some people would not think that prop hub could be worth $20.00 but then that is the way I feel when you see these so called top ARF companies taking a China made ARF and branding thier name to it and selling it for twice as much as they are actually worth. Before I got my lathe up and running I purchased from [link]http://wackerengines.com/[/link] and all of his products that I purchased were top notch.