I have a 30 CC homelite blower engine which runs fine at idle but dies when you give it the gas. Rebuilt and cleaned the carb but still wont run right. There is no high speed needle and the only numbers on the carb are WYC. I mounted a WA229 carb and it ran Ok however I had to turn the HS needle way out and seem to run hot. I also think the bore on the WA229 might be on the small side Can anyone tell me a better carb to use? .

Thanks for the help.

Dave

this would be better off in the engine conversions forum, but I just look through the carbs I have, I don't go off of numbers...

the single needle was the reason the first carb wasn't working

The homelite 30 likes the 11 mm carburetor for maximum power. Anything bigger has poor throttle response. The best Walbro's have a "28" in the Venturi. "24" carbs run much better than stock "20" .

The stock original carb for a Homelite 30 string trimmer is a 5/16" carb. The Walbro's have a "20" in the venturi on the stock carb

Hi Guys, I have a 30 cc homie with a new cylinder and a 2 ring piston. Compression is very good and it seems to like the 24 over the 28. It idles better although it is still in need of more break in time. My best idle speed so far is only 2200. Top end is 7000 with the 28/64 and 6900 with the 24. the prop is a APC 18/6W.

It definitely needs more time to break in, but those numbers are still quite low. Have you gutted the muffler and provided larger outlets? I use two outlets of at least 1/2" i.d. tubing, preferably larger. This is on a completely gutted muffler; no baffles, etc. inside. The original mufflers cost a bunch of power....

A Homelite 30cc in good condition should turn an APC 18 x 6 at well over 7500 rpms, possibly close to 8 grand if everything is optimal. My souped up Homey 30's turn a 16 x 8 APC at 9400 rpms.

AV8TOR

My Homelite 30 that still looks like a Homelite has a opened up muffler with two 1/2" outlets and the "28" carb. Walbro WA-167

It turns a 18-8 at 7400. It idles about 2200.

There are no other mods. I bought it as a John Deer short block. The flywheel is of unknown origin from a junk box and the Walbro ignition module was purchased from a model boat source.

hi av8to1977 - i'm turning a wide 18/6 and it has a dual output tube diverter exhaust. I have also put a C&H ignition and timed it at 28 degrees BTDC . I am waiting on a twister manafold and have performed no porting or stuffing mods. She just seems lazy to me also. It always seems to have slight idle issues. About 2500 RPM is the best I can get. Compression seems very strong and little to no bleed off. Dual rings. Run time is only about one hour. Your suggestions are always welcome. Thanks - Al

I have a general conversion question on my 30cc homelite. I didn't want to start a new thread for my question so I posted here. I have a stamped sheet metal back plate on my Homie 30 and it has a rolled. raised edge on the outside.

My Question is: Do you trim that raised edge off before mounting the flat alum. mounting plate to the back of the engine. This is my first Homie covert. I have only done older Poulans up till now so this generated a question in my mind.

Thanks.

I'd skip the flat plate mount and go simpler, go get yourself a stick of 10-24 threaded rod and a couple packets of 10-24 nuts. What you do is thread in the threaded rod to the backplate holes and stick the nuts down holding the back plate down then cut the rod to the length you would need to get through the firewall (use fender washers on both sides of the firewall if using this method). If one nut's thickness isn't enough to get past the lip on the backplate, use two... use a nyloc nut on the other side of the firewall. This will save you a couple ounces on the engine weight and is simple. If you still want to use the plate mount, get some nylon or aluminum spacers to go between the plate and backplate.

Yep, that's just how I do it...

AV8TOR

I am leaning to the plate mount w/spacers. I am building a scratch built, scaled down Giant Stinger and I think limited access to the back of the fire wall will make starting nuts on hard to see studs, a reason for too much profanity.[sm=eek.gif]
Although the stud idea is tempting. I am always looking for ways to save even a little bit of weight. I cut a hole almost the size of the crank case in my plate mount to save some weight.

So anyway, if you are going to use the plate, you can still just use studs to mount it. Make up studs to fit the engine, and size them to be long enough to go into the block, with enough sticking out to go through a small flat or lock washer, a nut, another flat washer, your mounting plate, and then through washers and nuts to hold the plate on. That will hold the engine backplate on, while still giving you a surface and means to mount your mounting plate to... You say you are going to use spacers, so there should be room for the washers and nuts that will hold the plate to the engine.

AV8TOR

I was not sure where to post this question since I went thru most of the threads and didn't see anything on this subject.. I apologize if I have missed it if it was posted before.
I have a Cox 1.4 chainsaw motor, that used to be marketed under the name of Roper 1.4, which uses a side mounted crankcase ported carb. It uses a twin brass reed setup. I think the reeds need replacement. Is there a substitute for the brass, such as a carbon fiber set or do I have to find some .015 sheet to cut them from?
The motor is in pristine shape except for the corroded reeds, they do not seal at all and it blows back thru the carb when trying to start it. I can post a pic of the reeds if needed and the rest of the motor if anyone wants to see it and make suggestions..

The reeds are held in place by the insulator block when you tighten the mounting bolts. They are a T shape with no holes... This is the last part I need since I just converted this motor to EI from the original magneto ignition. The motor does run but spits alot of raw fuel out the carb at idle due to the leakage past the reeds, resulting in an unstable idle. The reed seats are of a fiber composite construction and were not affected by the corrosion. I must have left it sit too long in my cabinet without proper care for this to happen. I have had a few of these engines and they are great running engines, although not powerhouses, I had used the last one on a Nosen Citabria with great success.

Thanks for any help you can give..

John

You could make some out of stainless steel of the same thickness as the original. Otherwise, look into "Boyensen" They are reed valve specialists and might have what you need, or be able to help.

AV8TOR

http://www.boyesen.com/cwo/Home

I'm considering either a WT-324 or a WT-391. (Because I can get them cheap) Has anyone used these on a Homelite 30? Will either one work well?

AlZ

Those are both pretty nice carbs and it doesn't make much difference which one

They have a choke and high speed check valve

I forgot to add WT-526 - any comment?

AlZ

Forget that one. It is obsolete and too small for any engine suitable for a model airplane

Thanks!

AlZ