I found a couple (2) of used Homelite weedeaters for sale locally for $20.00 for both. The seller says one runs and the other needs a new fuel line and should run. I have no expeience with engine conversions but am facing a long boring winter. I have no idea what size the engines are but I'm thinking they're worth the $20 no matter what . Shall I go for it? Where might I find prop hubs/adapters for these? Thanks in advance

Go for it.

Carr Precision has your parts


http://www.carrprecision.com/Pages/prod02.htm


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Thanks for the link!

In the past, there's probably been more Homelite 25's converted than any other weedie. There's a lot of us that have been there and done that

There should be many conversion episodes that can be found with Google on the Internet

Or we can share our experiences with you if the need arises

The engine performs well with just a very basic conversion with maybe a larger carb and the muffler opened up.

I was also considering the benefits of a CH ignition but I only see a fixed timing unit offered.

the only benefit of CDI is easier starting and being able to move the CG around, you only loose an ounce or two with that over magneto, and if in a warbird that would need nose weight anyway it might as well run the engine, a high torque standard starter (I've got a yellow sullivan that worked fine until I got my dynatron) will start the stubborn engines

I have fixed timing on my lessor modified one and see no need for the timing advance model

Hi I have the auto advance ignition for sale if you need one, give me a PM and we can further disscuss.

The CH Electronics conversion uses the Syncro Spark computer timing on all our weedie conversions.

Cool! I like your updated website as well! http://www.ch-ignitions.com/

For such small engines (below 40cc) having an Extra Battery on board to take care for
seems to me an overkill and in fact then the weight saved from magneto is practically
near to zero, isn't it ?

Typically the magneto flywheel and magneto coil weigh between 10 and 14 oz. The ignition conversion weighs 6oz and a battery that will run for 90 min weighs 2oz.
Also you are removing the weight from the very front of the plane and moving it back, so even if the weight of the plane didn't change (Big ignition battery) the balance would change.

Thanks for clarifying, it seems the dilema is 10-14 oz versus 8 oz in favor of Electronic.
One thing more to ask: - usually the electronic ignitions have better spark and that has
an effect on better start and even better running especially if there is Automatic ignition
instance control. But (there is one more on my mind) have you found that the Electromagnetic
Disturbances with Electronic Ignition are stronger than the ones produced by the Magneto ?
I seems it should be that way because the spark from magneto is with less energy and the
"delivery path" is much concentrated in front of the engine, not behind it as it is for electronic one,
i.e. do you need to do much more shielding in order to use electronic ignition ?

Magneto ignitions are usually trouble free but it is difficult to start one by hand.


If you are unfortunate enough to have a Phelon magneto ignition system on your Homelite rather than the Walbro, it would be to your advantage to switch to a CH battery powered ignition to obtain a hotter spark

The Phelon systems normally do not go bad or anything, they just have out of balance flywheels and weak spark when compared to Walbro

http://www.phelon.com/engine-electro...n-systems.html


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The CHXL ignition has a hotter spark and can created more noise. SO we have the ignition fully shielded... Case, plug lead and plug cap are all shielded. The magneto uses an unshielded lead and cap

W8ye
I have a vibration issue with my Poulan 32 that is equipped with a Phelon ignition sys. I would like to rule out the flywheel. How do I check the balance, and also how do I correct it, if it is out.

same way you would a prop, stick it on a prop balancer and remove material from the heavy side

I've done a few on a High Point prop balancer but you can also do it on the Dubro

Use the pointed fixed cone on the front of the flywheel and the the flat side of the moveable cone on the back side.

Use a air powered die grinder or file to remove material from the heavy side. Stay away from the steel counter weight

I would have to find someone with a lathe and sweet talk them to make me a spindle for my Du-Bro balancer. The flywheels will certainly not work with the Du-Bro spindle.

I did somewhere around eight of them using a High point arbor spindle or mandril. I don't remember there being a material different between a high point spindle and a Dubro spindle. The spindles look like they were made by the same person.

Three flywheels were 3/8" and the rest were 5/16" short shaft engines

w8ye
From your experience, do the Phelon flywheels generally require large amounts of material to be removed to achieve a balance.

Do you have a photo of the area of the flywheel you removed the material to balance?