w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Changing the subject here slightly

The Homelite 25's and 30's were made for several years and there are variations in them

Some early 25's had a Forged crank in them I understand? The new ones have a crank assembled from billet parts?

Also, many cylinders are held on with 10-24 self tapping screws but some 30's had #12 screws which are hard to come by.

The self tapping screws are best thrown away and regular hex socket (Allen) screws put in their place.

The old long shaft engines are 3/8" and the shorts are 5/16"

The newest ones with the Ryobi and Cub Cadet names on them may be metric?

Twin Star

Is the piston skirt in a Homie 30 supposed to go slightly above the bottom of the exhaust port at the top of the stroke. Mine does.

Seems to me that would dilute the intake charge with exhaust gasses.

big al

hi guys - what was the consensus ? I am having a problem ideling at 2200 and am thinking this may be my solution. Runs fine but only getting 7000rpm with a apc wide 18x6 prop. I replaced my jug and may have turned the piston around. What do you think?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I don't remember the piston skirts of my two 30's coming above the port? They have mufflers on them now and I cannot see.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

This is the second instance of this I've seen in this thread. If I remember correctly, some two strokes do use a kind of a sub port induction to get a bit more air into the engine, but I don't know if that is the case here or not. More likely the piston is installed incorrectly, or someone modified the piston. Sometimes we cut a bit off the intake side of the piston skirt to increase the intake timing without having to port the intake port.

If I get time today, I'll dig out a couple of my Homelite 30cc engines and take a look. Even a stock Homelite with a decent carb and free flowing exhaust should turn better numbers than you guys are getting... Hell, my lowly Ryobi 31cc turns an 18 x 6 prop at over 8000 rpms, and my hopped up Homey 30cc turns an APC 16 x 8 at 9400 rpms. (All on a high quality TNC tach.)

AV8TOR

big al

The piston was installed backwards. The long skirt goes toward the exhaust port. My idle problem and lower power readings are cured. With the piston installed 180 degreese (incorrectly) the intake and exhaust ports are momentarilly open or bridged thus injecting some exhaust gases into the crankcase and diluting the fuel air mix. I have picked up 400 rpm top end and can idle at 1900 to 2100 rpm reliably now. Thanks to all for your info and making me dig.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Good deal. Glad you got it sorted out!

AV8TOR

Twin Star

In my case of low RPMs with my 30cc I was hoping the piston was installed incorrectly but found it wasn't. I can't get over 6900 with a 16x8 prop even with a dual outlet muffler. I tried an 11mm carb on the stock intake with the dual outlet muffler and still 6900 RPMs. Those "R"s wouldn't fly the plane I want it to. I have since opened up another intake to match the 11mm carb but haven't tried it yet. I'll post results when I get to try it.

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

twin star, your homie is one of the new ryobi's isn't it? running on magneto ignition? could this be a possible rev limited coil issue? getting the same rpm with several different setups is rare unless it's limited somehow, and some mags have a built in rev limiter

Twin Star

My Homie 30 is on a mag and it is a "newer" version but I don't know that it's a Ryobi. It was just a bare engine when I got it. I'm pretty sure it came from a blower due to the config of the muffler. There are a couple of things that seem odd. The intake timing is 150 and the piston skirt on the exhaust side is beveled at the bottom so there is a slightly opening to the crankcase from the exhaust port at TDC. That would seem to me to dilute the intake charge limiting power.

The possibility of a limiting coil has been in the back of my mind. I'll try putting a 16x6 prop on it and see if it will turn up more "R"s.

jib

While trying to get my 25cc Homie started (first conversion) I loosened the flywheel, but did not torque it back down fully. As a result, the flywheel “cast in place� keyway has sheared off about half way down and does not engage well enough to lock the flywheel in place. While I’m looking for another flywheel, I suspect that simply torqueing down on the nut holding it all together will keep the flywheel from slipping. I’d like to get it running, as I finally have time, but am concerned about doing more damage.

Will the torque from the nut on the end of the (long) shaft keep the flywheel in the right position? I’ll mark the orientation with a sharpie, but am looking for some reassurance that this is a reasonable assumption.

Thanks,

Jack

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Once you tighten it down, the taper will lock it in place

You can put some Loc-Tite on the taper if it will make you feel better

jib

Thanks w8ye,

I'll stay away from locktite until I need it. As I was looking at the parts last night I realized that while the key is half gone, I didn't just strip the keyway, I created a means to adjust the timing!!! <Grin>

Thanks again,

Jack

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

While you are at it, set the timing at 28 degrees Before Top Dead Center

jib

Will do. I just need to find my degree wheel. . . .

Jack

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I have a professional one around here somewhere but . . . .

I print off the CH one off the internet and past it onto some 1/8" luan door skin. works just as good.

spaceworm

Here is a nice one. My thanks to the original poster of this one, It is nicer than I could have done. And my apologies for not capturing his name.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

That one will get the job done too.

This one is great for plotting the port timing where you need the whole circle.

You can cut it in half for ignition timing if you want to save plywood.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

That was me. The shot is of my Christen Eagle, taken in San Carlos, Mexico. (It just happens to have a Homelite 30cc in it.)

Glad you like it, I have sent it to numerous members of the forum here.

AV8TOR

jib

I found my nice aluminum one; the one I used when I rebuilt my 1960 Triumph TR3 engine. It's a sentimental thing. Found my home built piston stop and other custom tools too. It's a good day!

Jack

spaceworm

I have a '66 TR4A but it is now buried under all of my plane stuff. I was going to enter the "CONTEST" , but I was too embarrassed to do so.

jib

4A is a sweet ride. Get the puppy back on the road. You can haul bigger planes in it than I can in my TR3.

If you were closer, I'd come pick it up. <grin>

jack
ps - My TR8 has a bunch of plane stuff on it,<Blush> hopefully for only another few weeks.

Twin Star

Is there other easy techniques for raising compression without lowering the cylinder as is the common practice.
When I lower the cylinder on my 30 I'm faced with a "free port" situation. (The piston skirt is above the bottom edge of exhaust port at TDC)

gosch

Info for all that use Homelite. Gardner Inc 1-800-848-8946 has parts. Like the twister manifold the real name is heat dam part number PS04357 $3.26 Heat dam gasket 06900A $2.06 I have built several engines and got tired of paying high prices for cheap stock parts no one wants to give you numbers for.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The Homelite twister manifold came on the electric start whackers. The twister manifold does not lend itself to drilling out as well as the regular manifold.

The is good news that Gardner has most parts.