Chris, PM your mailing address. I would like to get a package off to you tomorrow while I'm in town getting a cracked tooth pulled. Great way to start a Monday!

Yes I know, until just recently they put a time frame for managing those attachments, so I quickly deleted all my attachments and started using a remote image host, and RCG respects the use of the remote image host, but RCU downloads a copy from the remote image host link and stores it as one of your uploaded attachments, even though it was not directly uploaded here to RCU by me.

Lonnie - I tried sending you a PM - Twice but im not sure they are getting through.. Looks like they send but then they are not showing ups in my "sent" folder - but no others are there either and I know I sent some - Maybe A reply does not hit the sent folder here....

Let me know if you got the PM reply.

Chris

Serviced thousands of spark plugs in my day... we had a fleet of PA-31's and every 100 hours we pulled all the plugs and cleaned/gapped and tested them. The lead is fully shielded (although they are rubber or silicone covered) and the cap is a gland nut that completed the sheild and holds the HT lead and seal into the plug. We could clean then and use them again until they wore the centre electrode to an oval and when they went into the "no-go" gauge they were done. The centres would end up looking like a football - (started round) . After cleaning they would be tested in a pressurized tester to insure they sparked well - we never rejected very many. They are a very sturdy plug.


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Oh ya - and I forgot my favorite part of the job.. You took the stack of 24 copper seal washers - Put them on a piece of welding rod heated them to cherry with a torch and then dunked in water them to anneal then to get a good seal when torqued up on install. Talking about it seems like so long ago but really it wasn't - Piston engines disappeared from being a viable northern flying option very quickly - we only have one Piston engine airplane left in our fleet now when 10 years ago there were almost 20 (40 plane fleet). Customers decided one day that they needed turbines and POOF.... "old guys" like me reminisce about cleaning spark plugs.....

Well we use copper washers to index the plugs... I guess you could do the same with the 1/4-32 plugs to get the angle on the hi tension lead... the rinfire VR2L spark plugs are long reach with a longer threaded section... Could also come up with a spark plug enclose the same diameter as the hex base, thin wall tubing with a thread on hi tension lead... you position the lead and then tighten the threaded cap nut.. kinda mimics the aviation plug... the only issue it needs to be small, and compact, otherwise its going to look ugly, like a broom stick hanging off the engine.

Got them, thanks.

My sympathy, hope it does not hurt too much. Sometimes these things are needed.

For some reason, that annealing of copper rings indeed is a mesmerizing job. I to this day go "yippeeee" when I get to do that. No idea why.

Tooth's out, no problem. He just keeled on my chest, braced his left palm against my forehead, pliers in the right hand and snap, crackle, pop, out it came. Then he administered the anesthesia.:eek::D

What? No crowbars and hydraulic jacks?

Nice of him to anesticize after the pull... Better late then never, I guess?

Just hope it won't bother you too much in the next few days.

You could have just used some oragel, and then quartered the tooth with your dremel tool, and pulled each quarter out with a pair of pliers. :D

Hindsight is 20-20.:D

Glad it went well GG... I had all 4 badly impacted wisdoms pulled while under general anaesthetic many years ago and halfway through I woke up with a knee on my chest - Both the butcher and I starred at each other and yelled - He swore and mumbled instructions to the drug pusher and out I went again... When I woke we had this polite little conversation about wether I remembered waking up - they said that it happened occasionally and how sorry they were... I will never forget the look of surprise and fear on his face!!! Mine probably looked the same!!!!

i got all of you beat. ever seen the movie Maraton Man? i had a root canal done by a (no longer licensed) dentist on my front tooth (#8) with an active abcess and you may know that the general anesthetic does not work at all in an acid environment which an abscess is. i have never in my life experienced such pain. anyway, hope you feel better lonnie.

by the way, i've been playing with fusion and here's the ring for the magnum .30. any thoughts on whether or not the abs will hold the M2.5 threads?
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SO a little Boxer Update... I was so excited to unpack the boxer and found it to be in very good condition for a used mill - the seller said it had only been bench run and the condition confirmed this. But then I turned it over and my well tuned hand picked up the Unmistakable grinding of a badly corroded bearing. Obviously it was not "recently" bench run and it was also not run out or stored properly - Smell gave it away too.

Has been disassembled and every bearing is done - Badly corroded - No other issues as cam/crank/followers are all OK with only minimal slight staining and no pitting. Rods/Liners/Pistons/Rings and valve train all look 100%...

Questions:

Should the tiny rod cap bolts be replaced during build up - Thinking and reading this might be a good option. Locktite?

Any advice on bearing replacement (what to look for in bearings) - The seller has agreed to split of the cost of the bearing renewal - felt very bad about selling in this condition but he had bought it from a fellow modeller who passed along it was "MINT". I don't get the feeling he meant to mis-represent the motor but got caught passing on bad info. The bonus is that it will start its gasser life with fresh bearings.

also - what do your prop driver magnet mounts look like

WOW!!!! Thats a bad one!!

ABS should hold M2.5 well - 2.3mm hole in CAD (seems big but the Squeeze out makes it right. and just start the threads with a tap - let the bolt make the rest If you can make the threads "long enough" and make the bolt form the threads it should be good - maybe block out the threaded end to get more thread coverage - might take a few tries.

Structural like this should be printed "solid" at higher end of temps and slow for best strength.

Magnet mount? Drill a hole in the prop hub and jb weld a magnet right into it. Your sensor ring will need to hold the sensor about a millimeter above the OD of the front engine case to align with the magnet in the prop hub. I haven't drawn one for that engine in fusion yet or I'd send a model. Feel free to share whatever you come up with. I could probably print and use a couple on my boxers and the geometry is probably the same for the os, the magnum, and the asp.

The question about the rod cap bolts is a good one, and one of the few I do not have a direct answer to: Every engine workshop manual I have ever had my grubby little fingers staining the pages, had ample warnings on how to handle these bolts (torque, lubricating before assembly or not, reewal at each dismantling, etc etc) but the ASP manual says nothing about it, nor did I ever get any specific info about that from any vendor. Can't remember Dave McIntyre (the YT guy that has hundreds of engine disassembly video's on his channel) ever mentioning it. So whatever follows is based on logic, not on hard info.
AFAIK those bolts were never sold separately, So I assume renewal is not necessary. I also do not remember any scary stories from people that disassembled one and afterwards had issues with rods letting go.

So I would say reuse the bolts, do not loctite them, but torque them as accurately as possible. Of course, the caps needed to be kept with their individual rods, and fitted back in the same orientation, and preferrably keep the rods to their original crankpin as well, just to be on the safe side.

Be glad you have the ASP. To the best of my knowledge, the ASP has straight bearing sizes. The OS appears to have one odd sized bearing that is hard to find.
Get bearings of C3 clearance class for the crankshaft. The cambearings can be C2 ("standard" clearance)

I've overhauled a half dozen OS and Saito twins. Good info from Bert.

I use bearings from Boca Bearings, all standard clearance and hard chromed. Clean the rod bolts and threading with brake cleaner and air. I use 100% castor for torque lube and torque the bolts to spec for steel socket head cap screws. IIRC, something around 0.45-0.5 n/m in two stages.

Getting ready to do that very thing this morning.
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i was going to ask about the printing and slicing details, and the plan is to eventually share these sensor brackets so others can print them for their own conversions. for now, i'm just learning to model the parts and learning the best slicing and printing settings....

when you say "print solid", i assume you mean 100% fill. i adjusted the wall thickness up. i assume it is stronger to go with thinner walls when using 100% fill vs. thicker walls as the fill pattern is laid out in 90 degree rotated patterns while the walls are printed in the same direction. does it make sense to anneal the print afterwards? when you say print it hotter and slower, i assume that's so the new layer melts into the previous layer a bit deeper. would it be possible for you to share the cura settings you use for these sorts of parts?

i'm not sure if i should practice on PLA since i already have PLA loaded or if I should just load up some ASA and start printing it. i'm pretty sure any calibrationg i do with PLA won't apply to ASA or ABS. i'm trying to avoid having a bunch of old wet spools of filament around here. i'll probably need to figure out filament storage next.

Practicing in PLA is a good idea and I do it on occasion for geometry...I have never annealed parts. Some parts print better solid using lots of wall and no fill but that's a part specific call - a Small part like this can be printed both ways and tested to see what makes a stronger part.

I will try to find some Cura settings for this

I am in a much different climate from you and I never have wet filament issues - I simply bag (with a desiccant pack) and store on a rack - Sometimes im negligent and leave a roll in a printer for a long time and have never had issues. Im assuming you might not get away with that where you are Dave.

You remember what happened to David's ASP boxer after he did a dismantle / review of his NIB 160 boxer... I think that video is still on youtube... it was most unfortunate, but a good reminder to check and recheck all internal fasteners... I don't recall if he forgot to tighten the rod cap screws or he over torqued them, but no room in that crankcase for jiggly parts.

Found the videos.

One observation... the cap screws are not shouldered, they're all thread... running loose will shear at the threads, and over torqued can shear the head of the screw.. what it needs is a shouldered cap screw, and part of the shoulder should recess into the rod big end, so there is no shear loads put on the threads of the cap screws.