nystagehane

I would think with a metal center hub, and metal paddle control frame, the most common things to break would be ring like push rods, rotor heads, and fly bars which are all pretty cheap.

Something has to be left to break off, or stuff would just bend.

I dont know maybe with a metal rotor head it would just pop off the metal center hub causing no damage.

I do not think a metal swash plate would be worth it, they already have metal in them.

Anyone know where that metal center hub can be found? Ebay

kodak_jack

The metal center hub is just held by a set screw? You didn't answer my question about the drill bit. The pin I was going to use is a lot thinner than my smallest drill bit. What size did you use? I looked on Ebay and they had a small set of jewelers' drill bit that go smaller.
My comment about the skinny center hub was the wrong term. I'm thinking if you beef everything else up, the skinny center SHAFT will be the next thing to go.
Has anybody on this site tried using O-Rings instead of the ring like push rods? I've heard they work well and might save some broken parts.

Maximus18

Hey are there any other blades available for the HBFP other than the stock ones??

ALso, how can I go brushless with no soldering or adapters??

nuttcaze

there are lots of blades that can be used, as for the brushless set-up I don't think theres a way to get around soldering at least something, but heres something else you can use,

[link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ORI61107]Slo-Max Motor[/link]

[link=http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=3397]Long Carbon Blades[/link] - $10 but I tried long plastic blades, made the tail bounce something fierce, haven't tried these

[link=http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=3685]Standard size carbon blades[/link]

[link=http://helihobby.com/html/main_rotor_blades.html]Flat bottom wood blades[/link] - like the 7th pair up from the bottom of the page

thats just some of the options

Maximus18

Thanks, but do I need a new motor for the carbon or wood blades?

Mudstain1

tower hobbies has the GWS gray blades but their site isn't working right at this moment so I can't give you the link.

Look up their stock #LXKZY4 GWS Main Blade EM150 Motor Gray (6). It is $9 for the 3 pairs. They are slightly more flexible than the stockers which allows you to run them into stuff without breaking them and some say they make the hover a little more stable. Do some searches for them on the forums.

Hope this helps.

Chris

nuttcaze

prob, I would imagine the carbons are a little heavier, so more power is good

nystagehane

I finally flew my HBFP under control for the first time today , I almost gave up, I seemed to have the hang of hovering in my garage, but I still can not fly it around outside.

The EflightWiki HBFP site really helped, once I balanced my blades and fly bar it hovered very nice with hardly any vibration.

I think my parts costs should start to level off, Thank god, I broke everything but the kitchen sink on it.

I bought 2mm carbon rods today from BP hobbies in like three foot lengths for about 1.80 each to cut to length to use as flybars, I picked them up at the warehouse because its only 20 minutes from my house. I think they are way stronger, I crashed a lot and never broke the flybar once. At least I have one part that I don’t have to worry about replacing all the time now.

I need help upgrading to the dd tail with the slo-max and better blades………

Does anyone know what I need besides the GWS CN12-RXC Motor,

I was wondering which tail rotor blade and pinion seems to be the favorite, and should I buy a new housing or use my old, are there any adapters needed for the rotor blade.

Almost forgot which pinion is best for the slo-max, I am guessing a 10 with 2s setup. is a 3s setup better for the slo-max or will a 2s due.

Thanks all
Take it easy

jrizzle

My Feedback: (16)

I run the slo-max with M24 blades ,and the stock tail setup. I love the extra power and dont have to many issues with tail control. The direct drive would be better but it doesnt bother me. I also have one with the slo-max and carbon blades on the superskid upgrade. This one is more stable due to a little more weight. If you upgrade the blades you will need the slo-max or equivalent. Just remember in stock trim the lighter the better. If you want the ultimate FP get the Compy FP kit from aero-fever.net. I just built one of these and it is like a HBFP on crack! It uses HBFP head parts and a brushless set-up with belt driven tail!! When you get comfortable with flying get one. It is simple and fun. I posted some of my Compy 300 FP photos in the electric helicopter gallery if anyone is interested. If you have any specific HBFP or Compy FP questions PM me. Happy flying!!

jrizzle

My Feedback: (16)

Oh yeah, as far as batteries I use the stock two cell Esky lipo and a two cell 7.4v 1300 mAh battery from super-skids.com with no problems. In fact I dont notice my tail ,motors getting very hot and I've had over 20 flights on one tail motor with the lipo and slo-max.

nystagehane

I was reading that there is a rubber o-ring that you can use on the HBFP, instead of the ring like push rods. I am looking for a way to make my own, or something better than those cheap plastic rings that keep breaking.

any ideas

Later

bassplayinDude

O rings are super cheap, so why not go that route? The RCGroups thread even has a picture of the package you need, and someone else posted a link to buy them from Grainger as well. Heck, if the pushrods don't become available soon I'll be picking up some O rings myself.

kodak_jack

I tried the O-Rings and wasn't that impressed. It seemed as if the thing just wouldn't lift very well. Instead of that, I'm just using one ring-like push rod. In my hopping and crashing, the head pops off more, but I'm not breaking things as much.
I've installed the DD tail and solid center hub w/ GWS rotor head. The only thing left is the Slo-Max.

nuttcaze

how do you like the DD tail, I haven't gotten around to buying it for myself yet.

kodak_jack

See my PM to you. The install was easy, but I wrecked the blade in the first couple of minutes. Now, I either order a bunch of new ones to see what works best or I cut up a stock spare one I have to try to find the right size/width/ whatever. The stock blade on that hot little motor is too much blade. To begin with, the blade is exactly the same size as the stabilizer, so, it hits the ground a little. It spins that HBFP around like a top!!

Mudstain1

I can't believe you haven't already switched to the DD. I was having issues with tail control (thought it was me) and bought the DD. Not me. The original is horrid. Should be the first upgrade done as it is that much better.
Kodak is right, the blade is a little flimsy, I just ordered a spare for myself.

By the way, thanks for the Vids. You are one of the reasons I own an HBFP.

nuttcaze

doing the DD tail mod has never been too high on my "Mod-to-Do" list only cause I've never had probs controlling the tail, its never been an issue for me, but I'm slowly working torwards that, just figured out how to use my HBK II Rx for my new SuperFP

kodak_jack

A spare is one thing, but if you order from Tower, you can get 6 for $5.25. With some help from one of the guys on RC Group, I ordered 6 of the 4530's and 6 of the 4040's. I went for the solid GWS center hub, metal hub reinforcement and rotor head too. I guess the only common mod I haven't done yet is the Slo-Max. Unfortunately, it doesn't help me fly any better.

Mudstain1

[sm=what_smile.gif]what do you mean? I mustv missed that lesson. I am using the ep3020 blade at $5 ea.

Just saw that they have updated Eflightwiki with the new info. Wish I had seen that before this morning...BEFORE I ORDERED [:'(]

jl449

I just got my 2 fiber frame from hei-fever. I'm currently setting up one frame... switching everything over. THe other frame I was thinking if it is possible to install a belt drive rotor like the compy FP? If so what do I need to do this? I was also thinking of trying the Baron ball bearing brushed motor instead of a brushless motor..

**** just read from another forum people were having bad luck with the Baron... I'll just go with a brushless arc.****

The DD is a great mod for the FP. My orginal motor only lasted a few weeks. Upgrading to the DD gave tail authority. The motor lasted almost 2 months until a crashed took it out.
Here is a list of thinks needed for DD upgrade
Tower hobbies:

LXHHE2 GWS EP3020 Tail Rotor Blade EDP-50/H (label wrong - this is the 4530 with shaft extention)
LXHHM6 GWS CN12-RXC Motor (1)/EP3020 Prop (2)
LXHXK4 GWS Tail Rotor Housing & Vertical Fin

Speedfrek

I have the DD tail motor also and the tail rotor blade with shaft extension is what you need so that you can run the light weight prop. Don't forget to lock tight the set screws in place because they will fly out and you have to buy a new extension to get the set screws. Doh!!

And you can screw the DD tail motor right in to the stock tail housing by moving the screw holes just a fraction. This moves the blade to the right side of the tail fin which lets it push free air instead of blowing it across the tail fin = more authority. I had to turn my proportional down to get it to stay straight it wouldn't trim out. And my hobbie shop sells the 4530 in black and orange for $.80 each.

Also will all of the parts from the dragon fly EM 300 fit the HB. I would like to order 6 sets of blades for $18

kodak_jack

You can order blades separately without having to buy the extra hardware that comes with the prop for $5. The 6 blades were $5.25. Unfortunately, you'd better like orange if you order from Tower. If you want black or gray, go to BP Hobbie. They sell them individually at about $1 each.

kodak_jack

I think you have to be a decent pilot to use the housing and fin. I hear they're wimpy and may not last long - AFTER I did the mod I see this!! There is a version where you use a Dura Tex Ball End (LXpr63) from Tower to put the motor in. Then, you might use a different vertical fin set (LXHHC9) to go with it. I just ordered those parts when I ordered my 12 new tail blades.

kodak_jack

I think Dragonfly parts fit right on. Blades are like everything else with this heli. Everybody has an opinion. I was all set to buy the GWS gray blades and now some guys say they don't get good lift with them. I guess it would be nice to sort out all of the MANY mods people are doing and put together a spreadsheet to see it all. You can only use this blade if you are also using this motor, etc. Weight and blades and batteries also influence pinion gears.[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Mudstain1

I am using the GWS grays and love em so far. I have even trimmed a couple down to try and increase headspeed...love em even more. I have NO problems with lift. I am running a MK3 lipo HBFP with stock motor, DD, fuse mod, and blade cp LG. My brother...who has a Blade Cx but has never flown one like this...said that he thought the trimmed grays worked even better than the stock length grays which were better than the stockers. I can tell you that they are far more flexible than the stocker. Probably why people have trouble breaking them. Understand, I am still hovering and not in FF.