crashcrash

YES....it's in your pitch curve settings. I have a DX6, DX7 is totally different BUT...you have full adjust on your pitch through your TX programming...review your manual if you havent done so. ALSO...if you didn't get a manual (I didn't), you can down load the PDF manual from spektrum.

osterizer

If your pushrods aren't vertical at 0 pitch (50%, when the arms are flat), also check to make sure the pushrods are far enough out on the servo arms. Then if you still can't get your pitch range, and the pitch curve is already going 0-100%, then I believe you can increase the pitch range on the Spektrum by increasing the mix volume (CP* values, correct, crashcrash? It's AFR on the Fubs).

boatchief

Right now I am not getting full pitch stock TX and servos My DX7 next week some time all linkages are as far out on servo horns as they will go.
I am working with a new copter-X head. Stock eletronics don't seem to move far enough up or down to get 10 pos or 10 neg.

roychye

Hi man,

Yeah i think the stock rated gyro is not that responsive so i have decided to buy a new one. i have been playing around with the SIM G3.5 and more or less i can fly like a 3D stunner in the SIM (not in real life of course! can even land confidently!).

I just wonder that can a HHG flies backwards? the helimax cp in G3.5 has HHG setting and it cant really fly backwards as the gyro tends to turn the head back to the front! in the SIM i would prefer those biggest helis because the rated gyro would not interfere the orientation at all.

Is this true or i just got the wrong idea from the SIM? appreciate ur help.

cheers
roy

osterizer

Ah, got it. Well, see what happens with the DX- may well be able to increase the volume with the stock servos once you have it set up.

crashcrash

When I changed my head from 180deg swash to the 120deg CCPM upgrade, I had to replace direct to swash links with LONGER ones. I bought a T-Rex link set and made a set up...it helped a lot and I did use my programming also. Between the two...that got 'er.

homeunt

My Feedback: (3)

I recently made a very nice deal with a guy and upgrading my motor to 3100KV with 30A ESC.
I couldn't find what Battery I'm supposed to use with 30A and 3100kv?
I've got 2 1000mah 10c lipo and a 1800 20c 2250 20c. I'm planning to get more 2250 20c's but I think I heard that 3100KV fits with 15c's. Which one fits better?

crashcrash

You can use any of the batteries listed....just be careful not to overload the motor...I've run that same combo before. It's only a 3100kv motor, you have enough power thru that ESC to give the motor a hard time. Go easy....it'll be awsome flying times you'll be seeing (LOL) and power to get you into or out of trouble in a hurry.

osterizer

Agree- keep an eye on the weight of the batteries you're putting into it. The stocker is only 85g or so. You can still get good flying with 120-140g of battery, but that's the upper limit of what I'd like. You can certainly fly heavier, but it puts more stress on everything, and you have narrower margins if you get in trouble.

homeunt

My Feedback: (3)

well could youi suggest me on which bat to use? Since I now have a choice to buy some new ones?

chris1379

People seem to be liking the Loong-Max batteries from United Hobbies. I just ordered 3 [link=http://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5468]1600mah batteries[/link]. They are a little on the heavy side but should help with my tail-heavy condition. They also have some smaller sizes.

Chris

osterizer

The best I've tried for the King are Thunder Power ProLites- the 1320s are 88g, and the 2100s, about 140g. Those aren't the only ones, by a long shot, though. A big thing is getting ones that will fit in the battery tray in the first place: up to 35mm wide by 18mm high, and maybe 110mm longest.

DirtyBrad

I have a DX6i. You can up the pitch range by changing the pitch setting in the swash menu. This allows a much greater range than the stock Tx. My stock was right around +/-9. Right now, I'm at +/-11 with the swash pitch set to 70%.

You'll go nuts over the DX7 compared to the stock. I very highly recommend the Finless Bob videos. He uses a Futaba, but everything is close enough that you should know right where to go. I had many, many "Ahhh, so that's what that does" moments watching them.

crashcrash

For the HBKII, the absolute best in weight and power for me have been the "short" 1500mAh 15C's with the 3100kv motor running 11T pinion and 25a ESC. Fits the battery tray, lots of power, long flight times, and you won't really get the battery hot at all with the 3100kv. Just a good solid setup. You can get two for $30 shipped off E-Bay if you look hard enough (which isn't that hard).

crimsonrain22

I have the exact same battery. Works great but recently started to puff some. i am running a 3900kv with a 10t though. I have atleast 50 flights on it though so I cannot complain. Great battery for the price.
Edit: just noticed that is even the same ebayer I got it from

crashcrash

Personally, as long as I used it on the 3100kv...never had a problem. I did have them puff running them on a 3500kv/30aESC and 11T pinion. BUT...I knew better than to tax them that hard and I did it anyway...that's my fault, not that of the battery. Any battery will puff if you overdrive them. It's just a lot harder to overdrive a 2200mAh 25C than it is to overdrive a 1500mAh 15C. For the money...they're perfect for the HBKII running a 3100kv motor, and tons better than the stock 10C.

kd5boc

I'm in a similar situation...using 1250 15c batts, and getting almost twice the flying time as the stock setup...of course I also have a BL motor and ESC now...

The stock motor could be compared to a weak 4-cylinder engine, and the new BL as a v-8...more power/torque.

The stock motor was loaded MUCH more than the BL, therfore using more power from the smaller battery, vs the BL having much more power, and pulling less amps than the stock one...in effect, using less power and lasting longer on slightly larger batteries.

homeunt

My Feedback: (3)

well thanks for all your help, i will be getting that 15c mini 1500mah or better ones. BTW 20c 11.1v have ridiclious long charge time like my 2250 taking like 4 hrs to charge fully.. how's 15c?

GTX SlotCar

The C rating makes no difference in charge times. The mAh rating does.

osterizer

What matters is capacity- if you're using the original charger (heaven forbid) then it will take about 3 hours to charge a 1500 mAh battery no matter what the discharge rate of the battery.

crashcrash

My short 1500mAh 15C's take about 40 minuets each. My 2200mAh 25C takes about 2 hours or so.

kd5boc

In the same boat as crash...my cellpro 4s takes about 35-45 minutes to charge mine, depends how soon I realize I've lost power. lol

crashcrash

I gotta get a multi charger in here ASAP...one that will charge like 5 batteries at once...in a bit more of a hurry. 40 minuets for the short batteries is even excessive to wait.

osterizer

I got a PolyCharge 4 and a stack of balancers from Tower in the Spring last year. I used the Triton for measuring, or charging non-Lithium batteries, but almost every day through November, I'd just queue the packs up in front of the chargers to cool as I ran them down and pick them up on the other side as they finished charging. On any day with decent weather it wasn't uncommon to go through 10-15 packs in an afternoon, and all through the summer you'd usually see 4 or 5 balancers side by side blinking Amp-hours into the packs while I was flying another one out in the King or MX. The PC4 is right up there in the 10 best things I've bought for my helis.

and the weather's starting to warm up again now.....

GTX SlotCar

I don't think we should be getting such a large difference in charge times, if everyone is charging their packs to 100%, or about 4.22v per cell.
LiPos are charged using a cc/cv 2 stage technique. The first part is Constant Current and is the fast stage. It brings your pack up to about 95% of full charge (this doesn't mean 95% flying time). The last stage is Constant Voltage and it's the long stage. Here, the current is dropped way down no matter what you have it set at.
It's been a long time since we tested this, but I believe the difference in charge times at 1 amp and 1.5 amps on an 1800mAh pack was about 15 minutes (to a full charge). It's about the same when I charge 1300mah packs on my align charger at 1 amp, or the Esky charger at .8 amps.
You can stop the charge before the cv stage kicks in. Depending on your charger, balancing may not be complete (or even started) if you do. If you stop it then, there is a larger % difference in the charge times. The problem is that 95% of full charge doesn't mean you get to fly for 95% as long. It ends up more like 65% for flight time. I haven't checked battery ending voltage for my HBK2, but on a HBFP it's about 3.6v per cell. With a well tuned HBFP and 1300mAh pack, I fly for about 20 minutes using .62 volts per cell. (4.22-3.6). If you start out with 4v per cell (95% of full charge), you're down to .4v to use, or flight times of about 13 minutes.
On some balance chargers, the higher the charge current, the longer the 2nd (cv) stage. I'm not sure why, but my guess it the way it balances and that it's harder to balance the cells at higher current. It may also depend if the charger is a true balance charger, or one that just charges the cells individually (which many "balance" chargers do).
The other consideration for charging current is what kind of lifespan you expect from your LiPo pack. Some packs have the recommended charge rate written on them. 1C will generally not heat a pack too much and was considered the safe choice. Later, that became .8C, and now it's recommended that you charge it at as low a rate as you can stand, within reason, but around .5C will extend the lifespan of your packs even more. When you read articles on LiPo charging, try to search for the date it was written.
Some general current rules are:
Don't tax your pack at more than 80% of its Continuous discharge rating.
Charge at .8C or less (if you can stand it).
Don't draw your packs down any more than you have to before recharging. This has nothing to do with the 2.65v per cell that is the bottom of the safe limit before you kill them. It means that LiPo packs last longer it they're charged shallow, not deep. If you can draw your packs down to 3.6v per cell (like I do with the HBFPs), don't. Draw them down to 3.8v (or so) instead. Basically, you're sacrificing flight time for lifespan. (of course, I don't follow this rule myself, but I should)
Doing these things is how we can go from a lifespan of 50 charge cycles (3 years ago) to 500 or more now. Technology certainly has something to do with it, but the rest is that we now know how to treat the packs to increase lifespan. The lifespan is generally considered to be 80% of new capacity. A 1500mAh pack is 1500 when new. The capacity starts dropping after the first charge.

I just thought I'd pass this along so I wouldn't be the only one feeling bad about how I mistreat my batteries.