Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
03-10-2008, 08:29 PM
#3576
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: osterizer
I got a PolyCharge 4 and a stack of balancers from Tower in the Spring last year. I used the Triton for measuring, or charging non-Lithium batteries, but almost every day through November, I'd just queue the packs up in front of the chargers to cool as I ran them down and pick them up on the other side as they finished charging. On any day with decent weather it wasn't uncommon to go through 10-15 packs in an afternoon, and all through the summer you'd usually see 4 or 5 balancers side by side blinking Amp-hours into the packs while I was flying another one out in the King or MX. The PC4 is right up there in the 10 best things I've bought for my helis.
and the weather's starting to warm up again now.....
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
I gotta get a multi charger in here ASAP...one that will charge like 5 batteries at once...in a bit more of a hurry. 40 minuets for the short batteries is even excessive to wait.
I gotta get a multi charger in here ASAP...one that will charge like 5 batteries at once...in a bit more of a hurry. 40 minuets for the short batteries is even excessive to wait.
and the weather's starting to warm up again now.....
03-10-2008, 08:35 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: GTX SlotCar
I don't think we should be getting such a large difference in charge times, if everyone is charging their packs to 100%, or about 4.22v per cell.
LiPos are charged using a cc/cv 2 stage technique. The first part is Constant Current and is the fast stage. It brings your pack up to about 95% of full charge (this doesn't mean 95% flying time). The last stage is Constant Voltage and it's the long stage. Here, the current is dropped way down no matter what you have it set at.
It's been a long time since we tested this, but I believe the difference in charge times at 1 amp and 1.5 amps on an 1800mAh pack was about 15 minutes (to a full charge). It's about the same when I charge 1300mah packs on my align charger at 1 amp, or the Esky charger at .8 amps.
You can stop the charge before the cv stage kicks in. Depending on your charger, balancing may not be complete (or even started) if you do. If you stop it then, there is a larger % difference in the charge times. The problem is that 95% of full charge doesn't mean you get to fly for 95% as long. It ends up more like 65% for flight time. I haven't checked battery ending voltage for my HBK2, but on a HBFP it's about 3.6v per cell. With a well tuned HBFP and 1300mAh pack, I fly for about 20 minutes using .62 volts per cell. (4.22-3.6). If you start out with 4v per cell (95% of full charge), you're down to .4v to use, or flight times of about 13 minutes.
On some balance chargers, the higher the charge current, the longer the 2nd (cv) stage. I'm not sure why, but my guess it the way it balances and that it's harder to balance the cells at higher current. It may also depend if the charger is a true balance charger, or one that just charges the cells individually (which many "balance" chargers do).
The other consideration for charging current is what kind of lifespan you expect from your LiPo pack. Some packs have the recommended charge rate written on them. 1C will generally not heat a pack too much and was considered the safe choice. Later, that became .8C, and now it's recommended that you charge it at as low a rate as you can stand, within reason, but around .5C will extend the lifespan of your packs even more. When you read articles on LiPo charging, try to search for the date it was written.
Some general current rules are:
Don't tax your pack at more than 80% of its Continuous discharge rating.
Charge at .8C or less (if you can stand it).
Don't draw your packs down any more than you have to before recharging. This has nothing to do with the 2.65v per cell that is the bottom of the safe limit before you kill them. It means that LiPo packs last longer it they're charged shallow, not deep. If you can draw your packs down to 3.6v per cell (like I do with the HBFPs), don't. Draw them down to 3.8v (or so) instead. Basically, you're sacrificing flight time for lifespan. (of course, I don't follow this rule myself, but I should)
Doing these things is how we can go from a lifespan of 50 charge cycles (3 years ago) to 500 or more now. Technology certainly has something to do with it, but the rest is that we now know how to treat the packs to increase lifespan. The lifespan is generally considered to be 80% of new capacity. A 1500mAh pack is 1500 when new. The capacity starts dropping after the first charge.
I just thought I'd pass this along so I wouldn't be the only one feeling bad about how I mistreat my batteries.
I don't think we should be getting such a large difference in charge times, if everyone is charging their packs to 100%, or about 4.22v per cell.
LiPos are charged using a cc/cv 2 stage technique. The first part is Constant Current and is the fast stage. It brings your pack up to about 95% of full charge (this doesn't mean 95% flying time). The last stage is Constant Voltage and it's the long stage. Here, the current is dropped way down no matter what you have it set at.
It's been a long time since we tested this, but I believe the difference in charge times at 1 amp and 1.5 amps on an 1800mAh pack was about 15 minutes (to a full charge). It's about the same when I charge 1300mah packs on my align charger at 1 amp, or the Esky charger at .8 amps.
You can stop the charge before the cv stage kicks in. Depending on your charger, balancing may not be complete (or even started) if you do. If you stop it then, there is a larger % difference in the charge times. The problem is that 95% of full charge doesn't mean you get to fly for 95% as long. It ends up more like 65% for flight time. I haven't checked battery ending voltage for my HBK2, but on a HBFP it's about 3.6v per cell. With a well tuned HBFP and 1300mAh pack, I fly for about 20 minutes using .62 volts per cell. (4.22-3.6). If you start out with 4v per cell (95% of full charge), you're down to .4v to use, or flight times of about 13 minutes.
On some balance chargers, the higher the charge current, the longer the 2nd (cv) stage. I'm not sure why, but my guess it the way it balances and that it's harder to balance the cells at higher current. It may also depend if the charger is a true balance charger, or one that just charges the cells individually (which many "balance" chargers do).
The other consideration for charging current is what kind of lifespan you expect from your LiPo pack. Some packs have the recommended charge rate written on them. 1C will generally not heat a pack too much and was considered the safe choice. Later, that became .8C, and now it's recommended that you charge it at as low a rate as you can stand, within reason, but around .5C will extend the lifespan of your packs even more. When you read articles on LiPo charging, try to search for the date it was written.
Some general current rules are:
Don't tax your pack at more than 80% of its Continuous discharge rating.
Charge at .8C or less (if you can stand it).
Don't draw your packs down any more than you have to before recharging. This has nothing to do with the 2.65v per cell that is the bottom of the safe limit before you kill them. It means that LiPo packs last longer it they're charged shallow, not deep. If you can draw your packs down to 3.6v per cell (like I do with the HBFPs), don't. Draw them down to 3.8v (or so) instead. Basically, you're sacrificing flight time for lifespan. (of course, I don't follow this rule myself, but I should)
Doing these things is how we can go from a lifespan of 50 charge cycles (3 years ago) to 500 or more now. Technology certainly has something to do with it, but the rest is that we now know how to treat the packs to increase lifespan. The lifespan is generally considered to be 80% of new capacity. A 1500mAh pack is 1500 when new. The capacity starts dropping after the first charge.
I just thought I'd pass this along so I wouldn't be the only one feeling bad about how I mistreat my batteries.
03-11-2008, 01:31 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Hey anybody try out the 1800mAH AirThunder Batteries on their King 2's? I am getting in 5 this week, one to try out for myself and the rest to sell. See how they do, so if anyone is interested let me know and I can hook it up for a better price than what will be listed on my site. I'll prob. just post a promocode on here when I get them in.
BTW off topic. I maidened my HDX 450SE this weekend. HOLY FREAKING CRAP! It is a missile. I mean the King 2 is quick and all but this thing was an absolute rocket ship. Prob. has to do with larger rotor diameter, CF Bladse, all aluminum head, stiffer frame, well a lot of things. But man I gave it full collective and it was 70-80 ft in a split second. I'll get some video this week hopefully and post it. I am using the stock CF 325mm blades and stock 3500kv motor. I have had this thing for almost a year now and finally got it all put together. I gotta say I am very impressed with it. So we'll see how everything holds up and she continues to fly. I am looking forward to looping and rolling this bad girl. I'll always fly the King 2 though, especially when attempting new things, cheap to repair, the tried, true, and reliable King of Heli's. I cannot wait to try out the Swift 550, that thing is gonna be scary. 550mm Rotor Blades! YIKES! My King 2 looks like a fly next to the Swift. Hopefully another few months and she'll be up and flying. Hope everyone is well and having fun with their helis. I don't get on here much so if you want to ask me something or wanting one of these batts, shoot me a PM or email. Take care guys.
Kyle Allred
www.RcSuuperSales.net
BTW off topic. I maidened my HDX 450SE this weekend. HOLY FREAKING CRAP! It is a missile. I mean the King 2 is quick and all but this thing was an absolute rocket ship. Prob. has to do with larger rotor diameter, CF Bladse, all aluminum head, stiffer frame, well a lot of things. But man I gave it full collective and it was 70-80 ft in a split second. I'll get some video this week hopefully and post it. I am using the stock CF 325mm blades and stock 3500kv motor. I have had this thing for almost a year now and finally got it all put together. I gotta say I am very impressed with it. So we'll see how everything holds up and she continues to fly. I am looking forward to looping and rolling this bad girl. I'll always fly the King 2 though, especially when attempting new things, cheap to repair, the tried, true, and reliable King of Heli's.
I cannot wait to try out the Swift 550, that thing is gonna be scary. 550mm Rotor Blades! YIKES! My King 2 looks like a fly next to the Swift. Hopefully another few months and she'll be up and flying. Hope everyone is well and having fun with their helis. I don't get on here much so if you want to ask me something or wanting one of these batts, shoot me a PM or email. Take care guys.Kyle Allred
www.RcSuuperSales.net
03-11-2008, 06:23 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
I see it don't use the balance plug for charging....how do you charge them, through the discharge leads? If so, how about balancing them?
I see it don't use the balance plug for charging....how do you charge them, through the discharge leads? If so, how about balancing them?
03-11-2008, 02:49 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
I've had this problem too. Won't lift but after a certan point....it jets upward in a hurry. All I can tell you is to raise or lower the swash about 1/8th"...see if it smooths out. You have a "binding point" going on. I found that lowering the swash and re-setting pitch clears it up. It's not a 5 minuet fix......you gotta play with it till it clears up, and you might go through 3-5 batteries before you find the happy place for the swash.
ORIGINAL: gpach
Sticky Swash
New to the HBKII, I am running HS55's on the swash and am finding the heli seems to have a delay/sticky swash in the pitch aspect. I have changed the feathering shaft for the harder one from US hobby. Running woodies with the blade grips somewhat tighter than the machine came. (grips still rotate freely and smoothly). Not sure what the potential cause may be. There is a slight amount of slop in the HS55 gears (backlash) and some play in the swash itself. Holding a hover, I can increase the pitch/throttle slightly, no response, again a bit of increase, no response then suddenly it will climb. Same thing downside.
Got caught at the park this AM from about 15' (didnt increase pitch fast enough?) and find the heli wont fly very well after you scrap a lot of the plastic covering off the woodies!
Anyone have any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Sticky Swash
New to the HBKII, I am running HS55's on the swash and am finding the heli seems to have a delay/sticky swash in the pitch aspect. I have changed the feathering shaft for the harder one from US hobby. Running woodies with the blade grips somewhat tighter than the machine came. (grips still rotate freely and smoothly). Not sure what the potential cause may be. There is a slight amount of slop in the HS55 gears (backlash) and some play in the swash itself. Holding a hover, I can increase the pitch/throttle slightly, no response, again a bit of increase, no response then suddenly it will climb. Same thing downside.
Got caught at the park this AM from about 15' (didnt increase pitch fast enough?) and find the heli wont fly very well after you scrap a lot of the plastic covering off the woodies!
Anyone have any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Also: no matter how many times I try to align the blades, they just wont do it anymore....
03-11-2008, 03:01 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: Zimatosa
Sounds familiar....I have zero lift at about 80% throttle and then wham, it takes off like a bat outta hell!! I notice that if I unplug the motor and turn the heli on, only one blade is showing movement (twisting for positive pitch) But if I grab the blade that is moving and throttle up, the other blade with move instead. I swear they both moved at the same rate before. I was thinking that something was binding in the movement of the rods but thats not the case. If anyone has other advice I would love to hear it. Other than that, I am going to try to move the swash lower like suggested and readjust pitch.
Also: no matter how many times I try to align the blades, they just wont do it anymore....
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
I've had this problem too. Won't lift but after a certan point....it jets upward in a hurry. All I can tell you is to raise or lower the swash about 1/8th"...see if it smooths out. You have a "binding point" going on. I found that lowering the swash and re-setting pitch clears it up. It's not a 5 minuet fix......you gotta play with it till it clears up, and you might go through 3-5 batteries before you find the happy place for the swash.
ORIGINAL: gpach
Sticky Swash
New to the HBKII, I am running HS55's on the swash and am finding the heli seems to have a delay/sticky swash in the pitch aspect. I have changed the feathering shaft for the harder one from US hobby. Running woodies with the blade grips somewhat tighter than the machine came. (grips still rotate freely and smoothly). Not sure what the potential cause may be. There is a slight amount of slop in the HS55 gears (backlash) and some play in the swash itself. Holding a hover, I can increase the pitch/throttle slightly, no response, again a bit of increase, no response then suddenly it will climb. Same thing downside.
Got caught at the park this AM from about 15' (didnt increase pitch fast enough?) and find the heli wont fly very well after you scrap a lot of the plastic covering off the woodies!
Anyone have any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Sticky Swash
New to the HBKII, I am running HS55's on the swash and am finding the heli seems to have a delay/sticky swash in the pitch aspect. I have changed the feathering shaft for the harder one from US hobby. Running woodies with the blade grips somewhat tighter than the machine came. (grips still rotate freely and smoothly). Not sure what the potential cause may be. There is a slight amount of slop in the HS55 gears (backlash) and some play in the swash itself. Holding a hover, I can increase the pitch/throttle slightly, no response, again a bit of increase, no response then suddenly it will climb. Same thing downside.
Got caught at the park this AM from about 15' (didnt increase pitch fast enough?) and find the heli wont fly very well after you scrap a lot of the plastic covering off the woodies!
Anyone have any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Also: no matter how many times I try to align the blades, they just wont do it anymore....
Rocket affect....lower your swash a little.
Blade alignment.....loosen your blade grips a little then adjust tracking. If that don't work, trade places with the blades on each grip and adjust till you bring it in to track. I've had both those problems on the HBKII AND the MX-400.....mines perfect now.
03-11-2008, 03:30 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Hey HBK2 flyers well I just got mine, and already bent the main shaft by breaking a wing, so I was wondering if the metal upgrades are worth buying, do they protect the HBK2 in ways that the plastic wont protect it? Alrite some info would be nice to help me decide if they are worth buying the main kit and, tail kit. I guess I wanna know if theyre really that much stronger.
-KMK
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03-11-2008, 03:52 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
hey guys, i just got my hbk2 today and wow what a bird it is!! it hovers great!! i can hover it within a 1 foot radius!! but here is my question, i am hearing things about the belt jumping off, something to do with the rollers being too short?? whats the best way to fix this?? it seems to be ok but it also seems too close for comfort to te edge of the rollers.. please help guys
03-11-2008, 06:13 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
sheerider1026:
I had the same issue with my HBK2, and a somewhat troublesome drifting tail rotor due to a torque imbalance between the main rotor and the stock main belt pulley. The two issues can be solved by a single upgrade. The belt slipping issue gets solved as a bit of a side effect from the upgrade process. I haven't had much chance to play with it, but the Extreme 43-tooth tail rotor pulley upgrade comes with a couple of extra bearings that make the belt guides longer and prevent the belt from slipping out again. This really helps with the torque compensation, and I'm not worried about the belt anymore.
I got mine from ushobbysupply.com here:
http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product...17db36e1ab4a68
It's a very nice milled metal gear with an extended belt to account for the extra diameter of the 43 tooth gear drive.
Regards,
Casey
I had the same issue with my HBK2, and a somewhat troublesome drifting tail rotor due to a torque imbalance between the main rotor and the stock main belt pulley. The two issues can be solved by a single upgrade. The belt slipping issue gets solved as a bit of a side effect from the upgrade process. I haven't had much chance to play with it, but the Extreme 43-tooth tail rotor pulley upgrade comes with a couple of extra bearings that make the belt guides longer and prevent the belt from slipping out again. This really helps with the torque compensation, and I'm not worried about the belt anymore.
I got mine from ushobbysupply.com here:
http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product...17db36e1ab4a68
It's a very nice milled metal gear with an extended belt to account for the extra diameter of the 43 tooth gear drive.
Regards,
Casey
03-11-2008, 06:48 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
heck yea!! so is the tail on yours now a lot more stable?? i also have a esky hh gyro i need to install, maybe along with the pulley upgrade it is a winner?? how hard is it to change the pulley and belt?? i also have a esky 31oo k/v motor with esc on its way!!! i can already tell that the stock motor is a wimp!! so the upgrade includeds the wider roller setup to keep the belst from coming off?? is this a esky kit?? it is currently out of stock, i wonder if anyone else carrys it? thanks for your help, greatly appreciated. this forum rocks also
03-11-2008, 06:51 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: kmkdudemann
Hey HBK2 flyers well I just got mine, and already bent the main shaft by breaking a wing, so I was wondering if the metal upgrades are worth buying, do they protect the HBK2 in ways that the plastic wont protect it? Alrite some info would be nice to help me decide if they are worth buying the main kit and, tail kit. I guess I wanna know if theyre really that much stronger.
-KMK
Hey HBK2 flyers well I just got mine, and already bent the main shaft by breaking a wing, so I was wondering if the metal upgrades are worth buying, do they protect the HBK2 in ways that the plastic wont protect it? Alrite some info would be nice to help me decide if they are worth buying the main kit and, tail kit. I guess I wanna know if theyre really that much stronger.
-KMK
-lohchief
03-11-2008, 07:09 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Probably he's done what I did..
My main rotor on Belti slapped its horizontal fin/wing at 100% throttle when main rotor was bent by snow.
I really am thinking of upgrading those too but nah.. if those parts become stronger it won't be only main shaft bending, probably whole head part breaking.
I'm still not getting my directions ... I need to know where to find instruction to install 3100kv BL... People gave me links to where to buy them but not instructions yet...
My main rotor on Belti slapped its horizontal fin/wing at 100% throttle when main rotor was bent by snow.
I really am thinking of upgrading those too but nah.. if those parts become stronger it won't be only main shaft bending, probably whole head part breaking.
I'm still not getting my directions ... I need to know where to find instruction to install 3100kv BL... People gave me links to where to buy them but not instructions yet...
ORIGINAL: lohchief
"Broke a wing"?????[8D]
-lohchief
ORIGINAL: kmkdudemann
Hey HBK2 flyers well I just got mine, and already bent the main shaft by breaking a wing, so I was wondering if the metal upgrades are worth buying, do they protect the HBK2 in ways that the plastic wont protect it? Alrite some info would be nice to help me decide if they are worth buying the main kit and, tail kit. I guess I wanna know if theyre really that much stronger.
-KMK
Hey HBK2 flyers well I just got mine, and already bent the main shaft by breaking a wing, so I was wondering if the metal upgrades are worth buying, do they protect the HBK2 in ways that the plastic wont protect it? Alrite some info would be nice to help me decide if they are worth buying the main kit and, tail kit. I guess I wanna know if theyre really that much stronger.
-KMK
-lohchief
03-11-2008, 07:50 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Yea pretty much what you did homeunt, thats what I figured if you make that stronger got to break something bigger or more breakage.. Should of saw the wing its in 20 peaces, talk about bad luck next day I broke my main rotor on my CP2 haha oh well fix to learn as I like to say.
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03-11-2008, 08:37 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
lol if you read the last page of snow sucks on beginners forum, you can tell that my tail wing is totally missing. One main rotor I could save after 8 times of furniture waxing. Other one is in 3 pieces. Wing.. It's somewhere out there in snow.. I dont wanna look for it..
03-11-2008, 09:22 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: sheerider1026
heck yea!! so is the tail on yours now a lot more stable?? i also have a esky hh gyro i need to install, maybe along with the pulley upgrade it is a winner?? how hard is it to change the pulley and belt?? i also have a esky 31oo k/v motor with esc on its way!!! i can already tell that the stock motor is a wimp!! so the upgrade includeds the wider roller setup to keep the belst from coming off?? is this a esky kit?? it is currently out of stock, i wonder if anyone else carrys it? thanks for your help, greatly appreciated. this forum rocks also
heck yea!! so is the tail on yours now a lot more stable?? i also have a esky hh gyro i need to install, maybe along with the pulley upgrade it is a winner?? how hard is it to change the pulley and belt?? i also have a esky 31oo k/v motor with esc on its way!!! i can already tell that the stock motor is a wimp!! so the upgrade includeds the wider roller setup to keep the belst from coming off?? is this a esky kit?? it is currently out of stock, i wonder if anyone else carrys it? thanks for your help, greatly appreciated. this forum rocks also
Yes, the belt pulley upgrade does include the wider idler pulleys. As for removing the main shaft/head it is a fairly straight forward process, just be careful to keep track of your bearings, screws, shear pins, etc. There are lots of little bits that you will want to be careful with. Notably the push links, ball links and the sheer pin that sits in the groove on top of the belt rotor pulley.
If you are going to pick the Xtreme pulley upgrade, you might as well check into a couple of the other nifty addons.. Like the Hard-As-Nails feathering shaft kit for 'crash testing' , and the Xtreme Titanium Turnbuckles just to make adjusting the pitch much easier.
These are some of the upgrades that I just recently installed after reading through the forums here. They have made a marked improvement in not only the way the heli works, but also they look spiffy...
Casey
P.S. Have fun with the upgrades...
edit: PostScript
03-11-2008, 09:50 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: canniscam
I think you are well on the way to getting started.
Yes, the belt pulley upgrade does include the wider idler pulleys. As for removing the main shaft/head it is a fairly straight forward process, just be careful to keep track of your bearings, screws, shear pins, etc. There are lots of little bits that you will want to be careful with. Notably the push links, ball links and the sheer pin that sits in the groove on top of the belt rotor pulley.
If you are going to pick the Xtreme pulley upgrade, you might as well check into a couple of the other nifty addons.. Like the Hard-As-Nails feathering shaft kit for 'crash testing' , and the Xtreme Titanium Turnbuckles just to make adjusting the pitch much easier.
These are some of the upgrades that I just recently installed after reading through the forums here. They have made a marked improvement in not only the way the heli works, but also they look spiffy...
Casey
P.S. Have fun with the upgrades...
edit: PostScript
ORIGINAL: sheerider1026
heck yea!! so is the tail on yours now a lot more stable?? i also have a esky hh gyro i need to install, maybe along with the pulley upgrade it is a winner?? how hard is it to change the pulley and belt?? i also have a esky 31oo k/v motor with esc on its way!!! i can already tell that the stock motor is a wimp!! so the upgrade includeds the wider roller setup to keep the belst from coming off?? is this a esky kit?? it is currently out of stock, i wonder if anyone else carrys it? thanks for your help, greatly appreciated. this forum rocks also
heck yea!! so is the tail on yours now a lot more stable?? i also have a esky hh gyro i need to install, maybe along with the pulley upgrade it is a winner?? how hard is it to change the pulley and belt?? i also have a esky 31oo k/v motor with esc on its way!!! i can already tell that the stock motor is a wimp!! so the upgrade includeds the wider roller setup to keep the belst from coming off?? is this a esky kit?? it is currently out of stock, i wonder if anyone else carrys it? thanks for your help, greatly appreciated. this forum rocks also
Yes, the belt pulley upgrade does include the wider idler pulleys. As for removing the main shaft/head it is a fairly straight forward process, just be careful to keep track of your bearings, screws, shear pins, etc. There are lots of little bits that you will want to be careful with. Notably the push links, ball links and the sheer pin that sits in the groove on top of the belt rotor pulley.
If you are going to pick the Xtreme pulley upgrade, you might as well check into a couple of the other nifty addons.. Like the Hard-As-Nails feathering shaft kit for 'crash testing' , and the Xtreme Titanium Turnbuckles just to make adjusting the pitch much easier.
These are some of the upgrades that I just recently installed after reading through the forums here. They have made a marked improvement in not only the way the heli works, but also they look spiffy...
Casey
P.S. Have fun with the upgrades...
edit: PostScript
This is what the original "hard as nails" feathering shaft was made from (LOL). Thought you guys would want to see the history since so many people buy them.
03-11-2008, 09:59 PM
#3593
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ok guys, i bought the xtreme pulley belt upgrade, hopefully it will take care of 2 problems 1. more stable tail 2. better belt rollers to keep the belt on and also to let it live a longer hapier life. this heli hovers like a dream. i can hover it one foot off the floor in the house and keep it rock solid in one place, very very nice heli for the money, i can't wait till my brushless setup gets here, then i will also install the esky hh gyro i have.. any tips on installing the hh gyro ??? i am new to the gyro thing.. i started flying with a heli max axe cp about a year ago, i also ordered a falcon 40 to play around on (its cheaper to crash and easier to fly in the house) but haven't got it yet.
03-11-2008, 10:25 PM
#3594
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
homeunit, To install the 3100 brushless, you solder on the three bullet connectors to the motor leads and to the ESC leads. You plug the 3 wires from the motor into the 3 wires from the ESC. You solder the appropriate connector onto the ESC to match your battery setup. ( usually a deans connector) .. You unbolt the brushed motor from the heli and bolt the 3100 in it's place, leaving just a touch of slop (lash) between the motor and the main gear so it doesn't bind. You fire the motor up. If it rotates in the wrong direction, you swap ANY two wires.. You wire tie the ESC onto the heli where the old one was or in another place to your liking, keeping the ESC wires away from the antenna.. you go fly.. I don't think I missed anything..
03-12-2008, 01:31 PM
#3595
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: sheerider1026
ok guys, i bought the xtreme pulley belt upgrade, hopefully it will take care of 2 problems 1. more stable tail 2. better belt rollers to keep the belt on and also to let it live a longer hapier life. this heli hovers like a dream. i can hover it one foot off the floor in the house and keep it rock solid in one place, very very nice heli for the money, i can't wait till my brushless setup gets here, then i will also install the esky hh gyro i have.. any tips on installing the hh gyro ??? i am new to the gyro thing.. i started flying with a heli max axe cp about a year ago, i also ordered a falcon 40 to play around on (its cheaper to crash and easier to fly in the house) but haven't got it yet.
ok guys, i bought the xtreme pulley belt upgrade, hopefully it will take care of 2 problems 1. more stable tail 2. better belt rollers to keep the belt on and also to let it live a longer hapier life. this heli hovers like a dream. i can hover it one foot off the floor in the house and keep it rock solid in one place, very very nice heli for the money, i can't wait till my brushless setup gets here, then i will also install the esky hh gyro i have.. any tips on installing the hh gyro ??? i am new to the gyro thing.. i started flying with a heli max axe cp about a year ago, i also ordered a falcon 40 to play around on (its cheaper to crash and easier to fly in the house) but haven't got it yet.
Watch the video linked from this page titled " "Telebee Gyro Setup Video" http://store.rcsupersales.net/servle...ck-Gyro/Detail
Should not matter the brand of HHG you have so don't worry. I got my HHG set-up with this video and my tail is 200 times better than stock! It is a Finless video, I guess he is some kind of GOD in this community?
Check out his other vids by going to helifreak.com.F.Y.I. I noticed that the 43 tooth pulleys with belt are in stock at the above link (showcased on the home page). I hope you don't have to wait to long if the place you bought them at are out of stock!?!?
Peace
03-12-2008, 05:14 PM
#3596
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ok , thanx for the input. i also have another question. i was looking at the aluminum upgrade kit that you can get to pretty much replace all the plastic stuff with aluminum parts. is this a good decision to make?? where can i get a good deal on the entire kit?? all i have seen so far are purple parts, i would rather have blue, anone have a clue on this?? i also had a problem with the head wanting to go right while hovering, i slid the servo forward a little and it seemed to correct it, but as i am hovering the tail will slowly creep back and forth, its not violent at all, its very slow. is this normal or do i need to turn up the gain on the gyro??
03-12-2008, 06:11 PM
#3597
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
This is what the original "hard as nails" feathering shaft was made from (LOL). Thought you guys would want to see the history since so many people buy them.
ORIGINAL: canniscam
I think you are well on the way to getting started.
Yes, the belt pulley upgrade does include the wider idler pulleys. As for removing the main shaft/head it is a fairly straight forward process, just be careful to keep track of your bearings, screws, shear pins, etc. There are lots of little bits that you will want to be careful with. Notably the push links, ball links and the sheer pin that sits in the groove on top of the belt rotor pulley.
If you are going to pick the Xtreme pulley upgrade, you might as well check into a couple of the other nifty addons.. Like the Hard-As-Nails feathering shaft kit for 'crash testing' , and the Xtreme Titanium Turnbuckles just to make adjusting the pitch much easier.
These are some of the upgrades that I just recently installed after reading through the forums here. They have made a marked improvement in not only the way the heli works, but also they look spiffy...
Casey
P.S. Have fun with the upgrades...
edit: PostScript
ORIGINAL: sheerider1026
heck yea!! so is the tail on yours now a lot more stable?? i also have a esky hh gyro i need to install, maybe along with the pulley upgrade it is a winner?? how hard is it to change the pulley and belt?? i also have a esky 31oo k/v motor with esc on its way!!! i can already tell that the stock motor is a wimp!! so the upgrade includeds the wider roller setup to keep the belst from coming off?? is this a esky kit?? it is currently out of stock, i wonder if anyone else carrys it? thanks for your help, greatly appreciated. this forum rocks also
heck yea!! so is the tail on yours now a lot more stable?? i also have a esky hh gyro i need to install, maybe along with the pulley upgrade it is a winner?? how hard is it to change the pulley and belt?? i also have a esky 31oo k/v motor with esc on its way!!! i can already tell that the stock motor is a wimp!! so the upgrade includeds the wider roller setup to keep the belst from coming off?? is this a esky kit?? it is currently out of stock, i wonder if anyone else carrys it? thanks for your help, greatly appreciated. this forum rocks also
Yes, the belt pulley upgrade does include the wider idler pulleys. As for removing the main shaft/head it is a fairly straight forward process, just be careful to keep track of your bearings, screws, shear pins, etc. There are lots of little bits that you will want to be careful with. Notably the push links, ball links and the sheer pin that sits in the groove on top of the belt rotor pulley.
If you are going to pick the Xtreme pulley upgrade, you might as well check into a couple of the other nifty addons.. Like the Hard-As-Nails feathering shaft kit for 'crash testing' , and the Xtreme Titanium Turnbuckles just to make adjusting the pitch much easier.
These are some of the upgrades that I just recently installed after reading through the forums here. They have made a marked improvement in not only the way the heli works, but also they look spiffy...
Casey
P.S. Have fun with the upgrades...
edit: PostScript
This is what the original "hard as nails" feathering shaft was made from (LOL). Thought you guys would want to see the history since so many people buy them.
Awsome .. so they really are hard as nails .. lol ..
Casey
03-12-2008, 06:21 PM
#3598
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: canniscam
Awsome .. so they really are hard as nails .. lol ..
Casey
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
This is what the original "hard as nails" feathering shaft was made from (LOL). Thought you guys would want to see the history since so many people buy them.
ORIGINAL: canniscam
I think you are well on the way to getting started.
Yes, the belt pulley upgrade does include the wider idler pulleys. As for removing the main shaft/head it is a fairly straight forward process, just be careful to keep track of your bearings, screws, shear pins, etc. There are lots of little bits that you will want to be careful with. Notably the push links, ball links and the sheer pin that sits in the groove on top of the belt rotor pulley.
If you are going to pick the Xtreme pulley upgrade, you might as well check into a couple of the other nifty addons.. Like the Hard-As-Nails feathering shaft kit for 'crash testing' , and the Xtreme Titanium Turnbuckles just to make adjusting the pitch much easier.
These are some of the upgrades that I just recently installed after reading through the forums here. They have made a marked improvement in not only the way the heli works, but also they look spiffy...
Casey
P.S. Have fun with the upgrades...
edit: PostScript
ORIGINAL: sheerider1026
heck yea!! so is the tail on yours now a lot more stable?? i also have a esky hh gyro i need to install, maybe along with the pulley upgrade it is a winner?? how hard is it to change the pulley and belt?? i also have a esky 31oo k/v motor with esc on its way!!! i can already tell that the stock motor is a wimp!! so the upgrade includeds the wider roller setup to keep the belst from coming off?? is this a esky kit?? it is currently out of stock, i wonder if anyone else carrys it? thanks for your help, greatly appreciated. this forum rocks also
heck yea!! so is the tail on yours now a lot more stable?? i also have a esky hh gyro i need to install, maybe along with the pulley upgrade it is a winner?? how hard is it to change the pulley and belt?? i also have a esky 31oo k/v motor with esc on its way!!! i can already tell that the stock motor is a wimp!! so the upgrade includeds the wider roller setup to keep the belst from coming off?? is this a esky kit?? it is currently out of stock, i wonder if anyone else carrys it? thanks for your help, greatly appreciated. this forum rocks also
Yes, the belt pulley upgrade does include the wider idler pulleys. As for removing the main shaft/head it is a fairly straight forward process, just be careful to keep track of your bearings, screws, shear pins, etc. There are lots of little bits that you will want to be careful with. Notably the push links, ball links and the sheer pin that sits in the groove on top of the belt rotor pulley.
If you are going to pick the Xtreme pulley upgrade, you might as well check into a couple of the other nifty addons.. Like the Hard-As-Nails feathering shaft kit for 'crash testing' , and the Xtreme Titanium Turnbuckles just to make adjusting the pitch much easier.
These are some of the upgrades that I just recently installed after reading through the forums here. They have made a marked improvement in not only the way the heli works, but also they look spiffy...
Casey
P.S. Have fun with the upgrades...
edit: PostScript
This is what the original "hard as nails" feathering shaft was made from (LOL). Thought you guys would want to see the history since so many people buy them.
Awsome .. so they really are hard as nails .. lol ..
Casey
Just more precision now...LOL.
03-12-2008, 07:58 PM
#3599
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
As a matter of curiosity, what would prevent someone from making a CNC milled metal main gear? I would think that would be a sick upgrade, might have to use a little bit of lubrication or graphite coating to help keep the friction down ..
Any thoughts before I try to get a local tech student to try and mill one based on my nylon head.
Casey
Any thoughts before I try to get a local tech student to try and mill one based on my nylon head.
Casey
03-12-2008, 08:05 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: canniscam
As a matter of curiosity, what would prevent someone from making a CNC milled metal main gear? I would think that would be a sick upgrade, might have to use a little bit of lubrication or graphite coating to help keep the friction down ..
Any thoughts before I try to get a local tech student to try and mill one based on my nylon head.
Casey
As a matter of curiosity, what would prevent someone from making a CNC milled metal main gear? I would think that would be a sick upgrade, might have to use a little bit of lubrication or graphite coating to help keep the friction down ..
Any thoughts before I try to get a local tech student to try and mill one based on my nylon head.
Casey