boatchief

Crash thank you for the info you gave me that was the first thing I tried and after changing the direction of the gyro three times I was at the point that I thought the gyro was bad or I had really did something wrong in the setup everything I did still had the same effect on the heli spinning almost as fast as the blades and not in the same direction I was glad I put the training gear back on ping pong balls spinning real fast. When thanks to this thread I finally got it and that made my day able to hover with all my new toys!

P.S. with out this forum and all that contribute to it I would not have been able to do the things I've done to my HBK2 without a lot more down time.

crashcrash

LOL...yeah, I didn't even think about a reverse switch since mine don't have it. I'm very pleased you got it though....I know I hate down time. The past two days have been awsome here other than the melting snow (see mud...and lots of it). Wind has been very low and temps running 40's-50's. I've been in a 5 acer field the last two days honeymooning with the MX-400. SHooting piros, flying all about, even pulling a few nose in's here and there. Gotta watch where I land, once it sank up to the belly, skids weren't even visable, and the tail rotor cut a nice groove in the snow. Next few days are gonna be crap days....lots of wind.

osterizer

LOL, I figured that, since you said you'd been flying it a while .

choppersrule

Gene,

I'm using the G90 myself. Works very good. I using the stock transmitter and decide not to plug in the single wire plug from the gyro to channel 5 of the RX. With the Eflite G90, with that not plugged in, it defaults to the Head Holding mode. Then just adjust gain with the small pot on the gyro itself. Once, it's set to your liking, nothing else has to be done. Just my preference.

Dave / Choppersrule

crashcrash

See....I toldja it would work (G90....LMAO).

gene465

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks for the info, I had the G90 on my belt Cp and it worked better than the stock so I figured the HBK2's has the same Stock Gyro. Wow you guys are all quick! Should'nt you be out flying your helos!

osterizer

Ha, been through six packs already today. Not finished yet .

[edit] Um, make that seven. [/edit]

[edit] Um, ten. Good day . [/edit]

choppersrule

Gene,

Not a problem, the G90 is really good for the HBK2. But I'll throw in a wrench. The Telebee HH Gyro is pretty good to. However, I think the reliability in the G90 is better. I'd be out flying, but it's raining, RATS! So, I just fly it in the house.

Being quick you say, na, it's called addiction, plus helping the neighbors.[sm=wink_smile.gif]

flyinsolo11

The G90 is a good gyro- that is what I use on my HBK2.

chris1379

I see all the rants about the 43T belt pulley upgrade but I'm wondering if the need for one is what caused my crash. I know my headspeed is lower because of the Xtreme plastic blades. Maybe these are what promted Xtreme to make the 43T? I have just recently gone from hovering to slow figure 8's. What happened was on my last left turn, the heli just piro'd out of control about 270 degrees. I lost orientation and crashed. Was this because my tail rotor is too slow or because I slowed down too much? I'm still using the stock gyro, too. I have thought about the 43T upgrade but I noticed the replacement belts are higher priced. Also, would the standard Trex 450 tail blades help any or do I need the bat-wing variety? Darn those fragile Esky servos!

Chris

crashcrash

Any 450 sized tail rotor blades are fine, don't have to be the batwing variety. If you screwed up a servo...it was a hard hit. I would say lack of response of the tail helped make the crash worse but wasn't entirely at fault. I would suspect a possible glitch or something in the gyro or if you're running a stock radio, that could be at fault.......just too many variables.

noobflyer01

hi guys im trying to program my dx6 for my belt cp. and i have no idea what i'm doing especially throttle curves and pitch curves. if someone have the complete instructions for dummies like myself please post. and please make it simple. i would love to start buying ARF instead of RTF kits. but the RTF comes flying out of the box with very little setup. please help. i have the HBK2 also and if you have settings for the that it would also be awesome. also the upper left knob for hov pit for helos is not on the dx6 but i know its there just dont know to adjust it?????

homeunt

My Feedback: (3)

I've been trying many times with HBK2. How do you take off the main shaft for HBK2?
I'll upload my image as soon as possible.

Some kind of metal round object fixed at the bottom of the shaft won't let me pull out the shaft through the belt system. I checked and it won't come out too pretty if I forced it. There's no screw or anything. I need to see if it's bent in any way and I can't Could someone post how to do this?

crashcrash

IF you have everthing off (head, collar, main gear, Front pulley retaining pin, I mean everything) that metal ring you refer to is the lower bearing. It should just slide out through....you got problems, that shaft should be easy to pull unless you turned it into a pretzel.

homeunt

My Feedback: (3)

the ring slides right to the bottom but from there, it goes nowhere.

crashcrash

If everything is off the mainshaft you should be able to push it down till it hits the bottom frame, or pull it straight through and out of the upper frame. I never heard of not being able to remove the main mast , it should be easy, unless it's really bent badly.

sheerider1026

does anyone have any input on the esky 3100kv motor and esc combo?? i ordered it and haven't got it yet, then i find out about the stuttering and problems with the 3100kv.. what about the 4000kv mystery motor and 30a mystery esc combo?? is a 4000kv motor too big? i am not sure what the kv numbers mean..

crashcrash

I have the 3100kv/25a combo....NEVER had a problem with it in my HBKII...ever. It's no 3D outfit but running a 1500mAh 15C battery......it's nuts and berries with cream. Plenty of power, long flight times. I suggest an 11T or 10T pinion on that motor.

sheerider1026

ok, i ordered it with a 10t pinion. hopefully mine doesn't stutter like i am hearing people complain about.. so how would you rate this combo compared to the stock motor as far as power and run times??

crashcrash

Well.....about 10000x better. Anything is better than the stock motor.

chris1379

I read somewhere that the stuttering was caused by a combination of the 3100 and a specific ESC. I think it was a lower current Dynam. Stick with the Esky ESC and you'll be fine.

Chris

boatchief

I found this info on this thread still took me a couple of day's to set up but it is working on my HBK2

DX7 SETUP FOR BELT HELI

* Before setting up, bind your receiver to the transmitter. This is done by plugging the bind plug into the BATT socket in the receiver. Then plug the battery to the esc and/or bec. Then press the transmitter bind button at the back as you turn on the transmitter. Wait for the flashing receiver lights stabilize. When it has bound, the esc will arm. You can release the bind button. Turn off the transmitter and unplug the heli’s battery. Remove the bind plug from the receiver.

I. System Setup Mode

1. Enter the System Setup Menu by pressing Scroll Down and Select keys while turning on the transmitter.

2. Press UP or Down keys to navigate.

3. Go to [TYPE SELECT] and choose HELI for your model.

4. Go to [MODEL SELECT] and assign a model number for your heli. Use the Increase or Decrease keys to toggle between choices.

5. Go to [MODEL NAME] to assign a custom name. Use Increase or Decrease to select letter. Press Select key to move to next letter.

6. Then press the Down key to go to [SWASH TYPE] menu. Use Increase or Decrease key to toggle to 3 SERVOS 120º.

7. Next go to [INPUT SELECT] menu by toggling UP or Down keys. It should be
AUX2>AUX2 and GEAR>GEAR.

II. Function Mode

1. Enter the Function Mode menus by pressing Down and Select keys after turning on the transmitter.

2. Use the UP or Down keys to toggle between menus.

3. Go to [REVERSING SW] menu to set your servo reversing switches.

Ch1 : Throttle (esc)
CH2: Aileron (left cyclic servo)
CH3: Elevator (front or rear single cyclic servo)
CH4: Rudder (gyro)
CH5: Gear (gyro remote gain cable)
CH6: Aux1 (right cyclic servo)

*Note that this is for individual servo reversing. For collective cyclic reversing, go to [SWASH MIX] menu.

4. Go to [SWASH MIX] Menu. Use Select button to toggle between functions.

5. Initially set AILE, ELEV at 100%. – or + values changes the servo directions. Set PIT value so that you get maximum + and - pitch without bottoming mechanically or have the servos buzzing. Again – or + values reverses the collective direction.

6. Leave EXP in INH.

7. Go to [TRAVEL ADJUST]. Use Select key to toggle between functions.

8. For THRO, set High (H) value just high enough so you get a max motor output (ESC led flashes) at max stick input. At times, this can be less than 100%. Set Low (L) value just low enough that the esc arms. At times, this is less than 100%. This provides best throttle resolution.

9. AILE, ELEV, and PIT. adjusts the cyclic servo maximum throw. Always adjust all three pairs of H and L in identical values. Values for AILE, ELEV, and PIT. must also be identical. This ensures no unneeded output interaction when controlling the cyclic action. You can adjust these to give you more or less cyclic angles. Max these out without having the servos buzzing. Recheck these settings after centering the servo arms at mid stick using the [SUB TRIM] menu.

10. Adjusting the RUDD endpoints, controls the piro rate not the servo throw. Remember that the servo receives a command signal rather than a proportional
signal. Adjust L and R piro rates so that you get the same piro rate turning left or right. IT is normal to exceed 100% for both values.

11. GEAR is used to adjust gyro gain. + value is hh mode. – value is rate mode. Set these initally at +72% and -28%. Readjust after a test hover.

12. AUX2 is unused for now. The channel is unavailable in the AR6100. The switch, however can be assigned to a function like throttle hold. This frees up the use of the Rudder D/R switch for other functions like dual piro rates.

13. Go to [SUB TRIM] menu.

14. Adjust AILE subtrim to center the left cyclic servo in mid throttle stick.

15. Adjust ELEV subtrim to center the front or rear single cyclic servo at mid stick.

16. Adjust PIT. Subtrim to center the right cyclic servo.

17. Adjust the RUDD subtrim if servo arm drifts in hh mode during tests.

18. Leave [AUTO D/R EXP] in default settings for now.

19. Go to [D/R & EXP] menu. Use Select keys to toggle between functions. Use Increase or decrease to change channel and change values.

20. Expos if used changes command sensitivity. + values makes command less sensitive. Lower value down to a negative value increases sensitivity. More sensitivity makes the heli twitchy. Full stick, however always yields the maximum programmed servo throw.

21. AILE and ELEV expos affect the cyclic. RUDD affects the piro or turn rate.

22. D/R adjusts the maximum servo arm travel of the affected functions. Reducing AILE and ELEV rates for example reduces the maximum swash plate angles. These can be toggled in flight using the marked D/R switches. Leave these at 100% for now for both on and off switch positions of the various D/R switches.

23. Note that you have two switch positions for both expo and dual rates. Toggle the
actual physical switches when setting values for each switch position. It will be indicated in POS-1 or POS-0.

24.Go to [PITCH CURVE] HOLD. Use Select key to move between throttle positions. Use Increase or Decrease keys to change values. This menu sets the main blade pitch range when the Throttle hold switch is turned on. This gives you maximum positive and negative pitch. This is useful for setting blade pitch using a pitch gauge. Mid stick is zero degrees.

25. Note that 0 to 50% gives you negative pitch. 50% to 100% gives you positive pitch. 0% is maximum negative pitch. For most helis this is -10 deg.

26. In HOLD position, set pitch range as 0-INH-50%-INH-100%.

27. Go to [PITCH CURVE] ST-2. This is for 3D. Set this for maximum head speed and fast collective response for flipping, tic tocs, etc. The S-curve is ideal for this.

28. Set ST-2 at 0-15%-50%-85%-100%. This is an S-curve. Pitch rapidly changes around the mid stick for fast vertical transitions.

29. Go to [PITCH CURVE] ST-1. Let’s keep this linear. Set it at 0-INH-50%-INH-100%. This give a smooth and predictable collective response. This is good for sport flying and mild aerobatics.

30. Go to [PITCH CURVE] NORM. Let’s dial out negative pitch or at least most of it for proper spool up. You can put a few degrees of negative pitch if desired. I prefer zero on spool up. Set this at 50%-50%-50%-INH-100%. This gives zero degrees pitch up until mid stick. Then pitch increase above it.

31. Go to [THRO CURVE] ST-2. You can keep this flat for max head speed. Or use a conservative v-curve for moderate speed. I use 100%-INH-80-INH-100%.

32. Go to [THRO CURVE] ST-1. Set this so that you get a comfortable hovering speed. I set this at 100%-INH-60-INH-100%.

33. Go to [THRO CURVE] NORM. Keep this linear unless you have an unusual motor response. Set this at 0-INH-50%-INH-100%.

34. Go to [THRO HOLD]. Use Select key to toggle between throttle hold value and desired activating switch. Set throttle value at -5.%. It is a negative value to ensure that the throttle is zero in case the esc setting drifts. Choose your desired switch. I selected SW: RUDD D/R simply because I am used to that position. You can use AUX2 if you wish to use the RUDD D/R for dual piro rate control.

35. After all settings are final, bind your receiver to the transmitter once more while keeping the transmitter sticks in your desired failsafe settings. This does away with the cyclic servos being crooked and buzzing while the receiver arms.

36. Fine tune after your test flight.

37. Go fly your heli! Congratulations.


P.S. everything you would like to know about our heli's is in this forum somewhere.

osterizer

The hole the gear retaining screw goes through can get wallowed and swollen out around the edges, and make it difficult to get it through the bearing. You may need to grind off the burrs with a loop of sand paper or a jeweler's file to round it off again.

GTX SlotCar

I've never heard of a stuttering problem with the 3100, but I have heard of a startup problem. I tested it with several ESCs and the only one I found a problem with was the Dynam 25A. The Dynam 30A was OK. The problem was that you had to give it full power to start, and then turn the power down right away. No matter how fast you do it, the heli will jump like crazy. Once the motor is spinning, you can power all the way down and start up again normally, as long as you don't let the blades stop spinning entirely.
Although I only found the problem with the Dynam 25A, it doesn't mean there are no other ESCs that are affected. The 3100 has a large air gap, so some ESCs can't read the timing at slow RPMs. I'm sure there are other ESCs and other motors built this way, they're just not common.

sheerider1026

ok. so i will just wait and see, i am thinking about ordering a 3900kv motor also and tinker with them both to see which i like better.. my stock motor is still living but it gets very hot, and it does throw some sparks, i just can't beleive that esky would sell these things with such junky motors, i guess it promotes the sales of there BL motors!! lol